Author Topic: Chambers Early Germanic Lock #L-5 (Read 8135 times)

Eric Smith · « **on:** June 11, 2012, 12:53:04 AM »

My only frame of referemce as far as Locks go is the Deluxe Siler from Chambers. However, in my studies of original early pieces from photos I see a lot of rifle that seem to have locks similar to the Chambers L-5 Early Germanic. I am sure it is a very good quality lock. All one need do is pay attention to the posts here to gain a perspective on Chambers locks. But I was wondering if someone who has had actual hands-on/use of this lock might share thier thoughts on this particular lock. I find it very attractive on examples I've seen on original and contemporary rifles.

Cory Joe Stewart · « **Reply #1 on:** June 11, 2012, 01:03:34 AM »

I used one on my Moravian rifle (my first build) and I have nothing but love for it. I polished mine and found the shapes easy for a newbie to work with. I also love how the slight bend it has carries through the contours of the stock. I have never had a missfire with it. The only shooting issue I have had was my fault not the lock's!

If it suits the style of rifle you are building go for it. You will not regret it.

Coryjoe

rich pierce · « **Reply #2 on:** June 11, 2012, 01:04:59 AM »

I've used it and like it a lot. It has a fair amount of curvature on the lower edge which makes it look quite early to me, perhaps first third of the 18th century. There is room to modify the profile a bit though it takes some skill if you go that route because of the edge molding. I learned that trick from Acer. This one is a Early Germanic with some small modifications. Note it has less curvature and a little decorative filework on the tail.

Tom Currie · « **Reply #3 on:** June 11, 2012, 02:09:43 AM »

My favorite lock for an early 1760 - 1780 build. I tipped the front end down just a bit which helped the tail center on the wrist. I plan another build with this lock soon.

Acer Saccharum · « **Reply #4 on:** June 11, 2012, 03:51:51 AM »

I filed some of the underside of the tail off to flatten out some of the banana, and then re-cut the rebated edge with a chisel.

And then used as-is in this gun. The lock is tipped down in the nose a bit, as T Currie did.

This lock is quite suited for a humped style breech, or considerable bend at the wrist. Not great for a straight pull stock. Reliable sparker, and reasonably fast for a big lock. A good choice for when you gotta have fire in the pan.

bob in the woods · « **Reply #5 on:** June 11, 2012, 07:14:04 AM »

The lock used on the Edward Marshal kit from Chambers. It is my moose and bear rifle, and is extremely reliable.

James Rogers · « **Reply #6 on:** June 11, 2012, 01:10:14 PM »

I have hunted and shot with this lock since '88.
I really like it it.

Telgan · « **Reply #7 on:** June 11, 2012, 03:30:52 PM »

I have never liked the step around the outer border of the lock plate on this lock. I just think it looks better with the step removed. Other than that, I love the lock and think it functions great and works well for many ealy applications. It can be easily modified if so desired. Have seen it done with the Chmabers early Ketland cock (which I think required a little heat and bend) - Looked great and just a bit beefier than the cock it comes with. Also like the fact that it has no frizzen briddle - so as to perhaps give the appearance of an earlier gun (even if eroniously). I would like the world a whole lot less, if this lock were not avilable.

Stophel · « **Reply #8 on:** June 11, 2012, 04:40:38 PM »

Here's one I've worked on and it's nearly ready to use.

The nose of the lockplate has been bent up (which I think it sorely needs) and the cock reshaped (these cocks just do not work well for me. It works fine now, but I may replace it with something better looking).

I have to say, I greatly prefer the tumbler/sear/bridle of the original design in this lock over the current Siler internals, but they work. I'm also not crazy about the frizzen spring position. I think it should be placed a bit higher and more horizontally (the top arm of the spring should be nearly horizontal for best appearance and function). It works, but I may change that too, just because it bothers me...

hanshi · « **Reply #9 on:** June 11, 2012, 06:19:43 PM »

IMHO the Chambers early Germanic is the best looking lock he makes. I started to use it for my EL but ended up with his Golden Age. I would sure like a jeager or jeager era rifle and if I get one you can be sure it will carry this lock.

satwel · « **Reply #10 on:** June 11, 2012, 11:51:05 PM »

Mine has given me trouble-free operation for five years. Largest lock I've used, but seems as fast as my large Silers. Sparks great, easy on flints. No gouges or grooves on the frizzen yet. I highly recommend it.

Acer Saccharum · « **Reply #11 on:** June 12, 2012, 12:07:05 AM »

This is a great lock, very versatile in its uses. Nicely suited to changing the appearance with some imagination and elbow grease.

Stophel, you cranky old thing, I like what you did with the toe of the lock. I would like to see what you mean about the frizzen spring, moving it, or using a different spring entirely.

The tip up of the toe changes the era and the style of the gun you can make with it. Great idea.

Has anyone ever made a roundfaced lock from one of these? You'd need a different cock.

Stophel · « **Reply #12 on:** June 12, 2012, 12:19:16 AM »

I AM very cranky... and beginning to get old.

The whole nose end of the lockplate could be higher. Bending it up helps, but still the spring is angled up. Or, if the frizzen "toe" area were lower and the pivot screw mounted lower, it would have a similar effect of straightening out the spring. The frizzen spring really has to reach up to get to the frizzen.

Bending the lockplate is easy. Clamp the front end of it in a vise and whack it. Of course, there's some clean up, but it's surprisingly easy to bend.

I wish I could weld, and I'd just add some metal to the top front end and I could shape it as I would like... but I have tried and I have tried, but never been successful at welding.

I have an old one on a gun I did many years ago. I got it from "R&R", during a period when Chambers apparently was not making them themselves. I do like the older tumbler and sear, it seems much more suitable for this size of a lock. I also have an old set of as-cast tumbler/sear/bridle that I am jealously hoarding....

Acer Saccharum · « **Reply #13 on:** June 12, 2012, 12:41:56 AM »

However, Stoph, the small internals on a large plate means more room for pimping up the outside shape of the plate!

Yah, I think a TIG would the cat's meow for building up plates, cocks, frizzen toes, etc. Cody Tetachuk uses a MIG with excellent results.

volatpluvia · « **Reply #14 on:** June 12, 2012, 05:43:04 AM »

As I have stated somewhere before. It works so reliably that I got bored and started building wheellocks. It really is astonishing how well it works. I my last competition, 28 rounds of fine shot at clay rabbits and birds without a misfire and without a miss.
volatpluvia

t.caster · « **Reply #15 on:** June 14, 2012, 03:48:25 AM »

Taking the perimeter flange off really slims it down...as on this version of RCA#19, done this year.

Eric Smith · « **Reply #16 on:** August 02, 2012, 01:53:08 AM »

I am convinced! I ordered that lock from Chambers yesterday. Build #2 in the early planning stages.

Eric Smith · « **Reply #17 on:** August 18, 2012, 12:42:01 AM »

The lock arrived today! Straight from Chambers shop! I am well pleased.

Long John · « **Reply #18 on:** August 18, 2012, 01:54:45 AM »

You won't be disappointed. I have one for my smooth rifle and can hardly wait to get started on it.

Best Regards,

John Cholin

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Author Topic: Chambers Early Germanic Lock #L-5 (Read 8135 times)