Artificer's Box

[James Wilson Everett]

Gus,

One of my favorite backpacking places here in Western PA is the Oil Creek State Park.  This is where E. Drake drilled the first oil well, August 27, 1859.  Prior to that it was surface collected as you say.  The very nice museum there indicated that the natives were using it as a skin bug repellant at the period of first European contact.  After that it was marketed for various uses, including internal medicine!  I do not have any reference to it being used by a gunsmith in the period - but it sure beats getting the visitors stung by a yellow jacket.  My research into oils/lubricants has not gone beyond this.

I do know that what is known as "Pennsylvanis grade crude oil" tends to be light brown in color and rather thin due to a lower paraffin content than other oils - like Texas grade.  The unrefined oil looks and pours very much like modern 30W. 

If you are ever in the W. PA. area be sure to stop by the Drake Oil Well Museum, it is well worth the trip.

Jim

[Artificer]

Jim,

Well I did think of another couple of questions.  Grin.  

Gosh, I feel silly.  You mentioning lapping compound got me to thinking about something else.  I wonder if one of the uses for the course and fine grades of emory powder, as mentioned on the mid 18th century British Artificers Tool kit list, was used by mixing some with oil or grease and used that for a lapping compound?  I never thought about that before and I should have.

I have often wondered how course the “file” teeth were in tumbler grinders.  That is one thing I could kick myself for not asking when I was first shown a couple of them in Colonial Williamsburg.  I can’t trust my memory, but it seemed they used a bastard cut.  Looking at your tumbler grinder, it looks like you used a finer cut file?  I guess this question shows my background is in working steel vs the hand wrought iron of the day.  I know it is extremely important to have a smooth finish on the boss of the tumbler that rides against the lock plate and that the side of the tumbler that rides against the bridle is also smooth and that’s why I ask.  Or did they do something like put the rough cut tumbler in a fixture with a hole though it and lay a finer file on the fixture and then put the tumbler in the hole and down over the file and rotate it against the cutting teeth of a finer file?  

Modified to add:  OK, having never used a tumbler grinder, something just dawned on me I had not thought about before.  The tumbler grinder cuts the body of the tumbler parallel to the axis.  Then you hand file clearance around the lock plate side of the tumbler to leave the perpendicular boss?  

Another question that goes along with that is did they have a smaller grinder with a pilot that cut both sides of the sear perpendicular to the hole through the sear?  Something on the order of a screw grinder, but with a pilot?  Not having such tools in the past, I have used magic marker or Dykem layout dye (in place of candle black) to show the high spots of a sear and gently file them down.  

I guess that also leads to the question if you keep a candle stub in your box to use for blacking parts?  
Gus

[Artificer]

I am sort of stuck on what would be the Mid 18th century “correct/appropriate tang” for what we call needle files today. 
Diderot’s Encyclopedia is not nearly as clear on files as is John Wyke’s “Catalogue of Tools for Clock and Watch Makers.”  It looks like very fine files had tapered four sided tangs.  Not knowing the historically correct reason for that, I a$$ume it was to keep down on the amount of steel used for the file tang to reduce cost?

Because I can not make my own files, I’ve been searching tool catalogues and sources for very fine files with tapered tangs, to be used for fine lock work in place of needle files.  I have found round ones and even one knife edge file, but no luck on thin flat files and half round files.  Maybe the only way to turn a modern needle file into a period correct file would be to grind a tapered four side tang from the round tangs we find on them today?  That is a bit of work to make it more authentic, so I would confine it to only the most essential needle files, I suppose. 

Gus 

[James Wilson Everett]

Gus,

Thanks for your insight and questions.  I believe that you are quite beyond me in asking about the shape of the file tangs.  I have stopped just at not having red plastic handles on my files.  I guess that it would be easy to modify the step or shoulder of the larger files to make them look more 18th c, but I haven't gotten a round tuit.  As far as needle files, I just use them as they are.  Certainly my journeyman box tools can be improved!

The tumbler mill I use is taken from the Journal of Historical Armsmaking Technology.  Check out the more detailed discussion under the thread "scratch built locks" for more photos.  Here you can also see a very nice reproduction tumbler mill that is truly a work of art.  The fine cut file works OK.  I do most of the material removal with a regular file, and only use the tumbler mill for the finish cut and for truing up the surfaces.  The fine cut file causes me to clear chips often as the fine file teeth fill up quite fast.  The better tumbler mill in the other thread has quite coarse teeth and would probably clear the chip during use.  A modificstion I did to my tumbler mill that is different from the one in the JHAT illustration was to allow for three different sizes of tumblers - that is different round shaft sizes.  the tumbler body thickness can be adjusted easily by adding shims/washers to the brass depth stop pieces.  Also I drilled a lot of various small diameter holes to act as field screw grinders.

I do not put a bearing step on my tumblers as many modern lockmakers do.  If the tumbler rubs on the interior of the lockplate or bridal I file away the offending portion until they work smoothly.  I try to make my guns indistinguishable from original.

Jim

[Artificer]

Jim,

Well, it seems I once again mixed up time periods of tumblers when I referred to a bearing step.  Sorry about that and thanks for setting me straight.

For some reason, search engines and me do not get along real well and I’m sure it is something I do not understand about them.  However, I was finally able to find the thread on scratch built locks you mentioned to look at the disassembled view of your tumbler grinder and your description of how you made it.  VERY interesting.  I have JHAT I-IV and though I have read them all four or five times, it looks like I will be reading them again.

With your abilities, which I sincerely admire, you are in the camp of making a part to fit while I am still in the camp of using replacement parts and then fitting them.  I have to remind myself of that when I’m asking questions.  Grin.  I am groping a little here, so I hope you will pardon me.  So at the 18th century faires or reenactments, are you making tumblers from ones you already roughed out or using your grinder to fit factory or “store bought” replacement tumblers?  I realize if you are working original locks or repro locks where the parts are not available, you would be making the parts.  So maybe a better way of asking would be are you also using the grinder to fit factory parts from say Pedersoli or the more recent repros from India? 

Since parts for the Jap Besses have not been available for some years, I’ve been thinking about borrowing another Jap Bess, if one does not come in soon for repair, to measure the parts, make a poor man’s blueprint of them, and make some replacement parts.  Of course, I can not make the springs, so I’m out of luck there and will have to see if I can modify other springs to use in them.   

I REALLY appreciate you sharing all this great information.

Gus

[John A. Stein]

What an educational thread I certainly enjoy being able to "eavesdrop" on these conversations. Happy Independance Day everybody! John

[James Wilson Everett]

Gus,

I only use the tumbler mill when making locks for hand made locks.  When I make a replacement part for a modern reproduction lock I use a small metal lathe and modern materials.  For the Bess mainsprings, I forge my own - I believe that the factory supplied springs on both the TOWER and the GRICE Bess locks are too weak.  I make one that is a lot more stout - it really improves the lock reliability and gets rid of many of the "click - darns" that reenactors are plagued with.

Jim

[Artificer]

Jiim,
Once again, Thanks so much.
Gus

[Sawatis]

Gents
THis has been an outstanding thread and I really thank you all for your contributions to preserving the past. I'm new to the board, and in the last day i've spent more time reading y'alls material than working in the shop.  I had asked Gary when I met him in Kentucky last June what became of the JHAT series..to which he replied that not enough folks are committed to the old methods and getting the word out....well, I'd say as evidenced by this board that is not true! 
I'm sure there are bunches of us sponges getting trained through the threads by you few that are willing to give...and I thank you for that.