Marvel mystery oil

[FRJ]

Anyone here us this oil in and on their rifle? I used it a lot for over 40 years in all my air tools and freed up quite a few lifters with it. Just asking if it would be of any disadvantage using it in my bore for storage. FRJ

[T*O*F]

Nobody knows........it's still a mystery.

Look up its MSD and see what's in it.

[FRJ]

Your right its still a mystery BUT it is petroleum based and has a bunch of detergents in it. Since oil in a bore stops rust from forming what would it hurt if it was swabbed out prior to loading a charge? FRJ

[BrownBear]

Buddy of mine up here has been using it on his CF rifles for something like 4 decades and loves it.  The pristine condition of his much-used rifles sezz a lot in our salty, wet climate.  But I'm yet to try it on a ML.  Since I use RemOil or Eezox on my ML bores, I obviously have no probs with petroleum in a bore. Just never got around to it.

[woodburner]

I have also used Marvel Mystery Oil and likewise have thought about
using it for firearms.  It is certainley cheaper than many of the other
products.  Tim

[Habu]

I've used MMO as a daily "wipe" on my pocket knife in an attempt to prevent corrosion.  No joy, I may as well have not bothered.  I'm not sure if a thicker layer might be more effective.  A thicker layer might work better, but since there are better rust preventatives around I haven't bothered trying. 

[mjm46@bellsouth.net]

I don't see oil in the bore as a problem. I've been using remoil for rust prevention for years. Before shooting I run a dry patch through the bore to clean it.

[Hungry Horse]

Remember, oh best beloved, that it is only called Marvel Mystery "OIL" because if they listed what was in it besides oil, the can would be the size of a Buick. Most of these ingredients aren't wood friendly. And, who knows what it could do to the inside of the barrel once you get the compression, and heat,, and powder residue of shooting your smoke pole involved. Repeat after me. THERE iS NO MAGIC LUBE THAT DOES EVERYTHING.

                    HUNGRY HORSE

[docone]

I made up some wax a long time ago that had a formula from Dixie Gun works.
It consisted of 55% Beeswax, 45% candle wax, then crisco to harden, and MMO to flavour.
It was great stuff. I used it as boot wax, did up some oilers, made bullet  lube for my 1863 Sharps.
Really good stuff.
On the other hand, oil floats on water. I now use wax as I am in an extremely humid environment. That works. MY bores shine with no surface rust.
I loved the smell when I made it. Mostly beeswax.
I would liquify the stuff, then add MMO. I would then let it harden and see how stiff it was. It would crack when cool. I added Crisco just to the point where it would no longer crack.
Made good patch lube.

[bgf]

I don't know what all is in MMO although mostly light oil is my guess, but if you called it Esoteric Weapons Lubricant and Protectant, packaged it in a small bottle and charged $8/oz., it would probably sell like hotcakes to gun nuts, who would be willing to defend whatever wild claims they could think up!  I've done a little sleuthing on some of the proprietary products via MSDS's, and they often seem a lot like something else that has been repackaged; occasionally that something else is something the users of that special product vehemently protest using.

Prompt and regular maintenance using any suitable product is the key; anything else is marketing.  Just my opinion.

[Kermit]

Good as a gasoline additive for the 235ci stovebolt 6 in my 55.1 Chevy 3100. Cain't buy tetraethyl lead in gasoline no more hardly. Seems to sorta work, and it's cheep at WallyWorld.

[FRJ]

I don't know what all is in MMO although mostly light oil is my guess, but if you called it Esoteric Weapons Lubricant and Protectant, packaged it in a small bottle and charged $8/oz., it would probably sell like hotcakes to gun nuts, who would be willing to defend whatever wild claims they could think up!  I've done a little sleuthing on some of the proprietary products via MSDS's, and they often seem a lot like something else that has been repackaged; occasionally that something else is something the users of that special product vehemently protest using.

Prompt and regular maintenance using any suitable product is the key; anything else is marketing.  Just my opinion.

EXACTLY!!!!    FRJ

[Vomitus]

Good as a gasoline additive for the 235ci stovebolt 6 in my 55.1 Chevy 3100. Cain't buy tetraethyl lead in gasoline no more hardly. Seems to sorta work, and it's cheep at WallyWorld.

Kermit, toss a few .600 lead balls in your gas tank.It works.

[Dr. Tim-Boone]

Look at some facts from experimental tests:

http://www.ctmuzzleloaders.com/ctml_experiments/corrosion/corrosion2.html

http://www.ctmuzzleloaders.com/ctml_experiments/corrosion/corrosion.html

Lehigh Valley was the best in my mind..but its now gone... Next best as I see it is Ballistol and it certainly works well in my guns.

Hoppe's seems to get very good reviews Why keep messing with all this other stuff??  I guess odds are if it works well on modern arms, it probably will work on ML too...Keeping it clean is the key I think.

[flintriflesmith]

Off topic but MMO works great as a lube on oil stones. "The Arkansas Stone Man" at Friendship turned me on to it 20 years ago. He said it was essentially the same stuff as high priced oils sold for sharpening. It smells better too!

I also use it to lube my gravers when cutting some of the more gummy metals. Just touch the tip to a patch damp with MM Oil. I keep the patch in a 35mm film can.

Gary

[docone]

To lube my gravers, I use a thimble with a cotton ball stuffed into it. I have an eye hook that I opened  up.
That way, there is no spillage, nor fumbling.
MMO soaked into the cotton ball.
Yes, it smells good.

[Daryl]

Tim - in the 90's, many modern bench-rest shooters used the regular Hoppe's #9 on their rifles, for the oil that was in it, after final cleaning, for storage. It worked for them and will work for anyone else. I'd still store the gun muzzle down, and patch it out before loading.

[Scout]

I have used MMO as a tool lube, in my trucks and wiped down a blade or two with it in the past. I never tried it in a ML barrel. I did lube the spring and tumbler in the back of my plains rifles locks with it years ago. I now use grease for that.

I'm now kinda hooked on the Hoppes #9 Plus for patches and cleaning and Ballistol for preserving.

That stuff works good, no need to fix it. It ain't broke.  

[Daryl]

I have used MMO as a tool lube, in my trucks and wiped down a blade or two with it in the past. I never tried it in a ML barrel. I did lube the spring and tumbler in the back of my plains rifles locks with it years ago. I now use grease for that.

I'm now kinda hooked on the Hoppes #9 for patches and cleaning and Ballistol for preserving.

That stuff works good, no need to fix it. It ain't broke. 

I hope you mean Hoppe's #9 Plus or Hoppe's Patch Lubican Ole Scout, both of which are the same thing.   Regualr old Hoppe's #9 - been around since the 60's, probably earlier than that, ie; 40's, is a smokeless powder solvent, not a black powder solvent - they are VERY different liquids.

[Scout]

I have used MMO as a tool lube, in my trucks and wiped down a blade or two with it in the past. I never tried it in a ML barrel. I did lube the spring and tumbler in the back of my plains rifles locks with it years ago. I now use grease for that.

I'm now kinda hooked on the Hoppes #9 for patches and cleaning and Ballistol for preserving.

That stuff works good, no need to fix it. It ain't broke.  

I hope you mean Hoppe's #9 Plus or Hoppe's Patch Lubican Ole Scout, both of which are the same thing.   Regualr old Hoppe's #9 - been around since the 60's, probably earlier than that, ie; 40's, is a smokeless powder solvent, not a black powder solvent - they are VERY different liquids.

I fixed it, I just forgot to type "Plus".  
I have used the original Hoppes #9  in ALL of my centerfire / modern weapons since my dad taught me to shoot and take care of firearms back in the early 1960s.
Smells good too !

[Leatherbark]

I have used MMO as a tool lube, in my trucks and wiped down a blade or two with it in the past. I never tried it in a ML barrel. I did lube the spring and tumbler in the back of my plains rifles locks with it years ago. I now use grease for that.

I'm now kinda hooked on the Hoppes #9 for patches and cleaning and Ballistol for preserving.

That stuff works good, no need to fix it. It ain't broke. 

I hope you mean Hoppe's #9 Plus or Hoppe's Patch Lubican Ole Scout, both of which are the same thing.   Regualr old Hoppe's #9 - been around since the 60's, probably earlier than that, ie; 40's, is a smokeless powder solvent, not a black powder solvent - they are VERY different liquids.

Seems I read Hoppes No.9 had benzene in the original formula and was great for corrosive primers but since has had the benzene removed since it was a carcinogin . I read that on the internet on a milsurp sight so I know it is true LOL.

Bob