Hawken Tang Frustration

[TimberGhost]

After several months of lusting at the photos on their website, I finally ordered a TOTW fullstock hawken kit.  Dumb move for several reasons.  First off, I picked a really difficult gun for a first time build.  Second, I didn't do enough research to determine what parts I should/shouldn't have for the assembly.  My biggest source of frustration has been the 1" 3/4-16 slanted breech, primarily because the tang casting is horrible. The one that came with the kit was twisted, as was the second I ordered after breaking the first one trying to bend it to shape (at which point I also found out they weren't heat treated either).  I also found that the tang area in the pre-inlet stock was slightly oversize for the second tang I ordered.  To make things a little worse, I've had several individuals state that the false/slanted breech has not been the most reliable for ignition.  At this point I'd like to scrap the false/slanted breech completely and go with a fixed breech (seems more reliable and, from what I've gathered, more historically appropriate as well).  The problem I'm having is that I haven't found any investment cast fixed tang breech plugs that have the side profile of the slant faced plug from TOTW.  None of the other suppliers I've seen have anything similar so I'm down to making one.  Does anyone have any ideas/tips for fabbing or forging a fixed breech hawken tang? 

[Dave B]

You can always make your own from scratch but just using a torch to bend the standing breach tang  to the proper shape and pounding out the width to the correct size to fit is a much simpler way to go. The early Hawken standing breach tang is wider than the other Hawken tangs if I am not mistaken.  I am not sure what others experience with the slant breaches have been, but mine has always been good. I have built 8 Hawken rifles to date using TOTW Parts and all of them worked perfectly.
Granted getting the buggers inlet is a challenge but once you know the art of soldering the tang in place for the inletting it makes life much easier getting the job done right. Good luck with your project.

[eddillon]

I have built at least 6 Hawkens.  I use accra-glas to glue the tang to the hook breech for inletting.  No problems.  Propane torch to soften the epoxy and separate the tang from the breech when the inlet is complete.

[Majorjoel]

Been there, done that........http://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=12489.0

[snowdragon]

I don't think I've gotten a straight hawken tang yet, so the first thing I do after I establish the top wrist profile is to straighten it out and file it so it's symmetrical.  Then I bend it to match the profile of the wrist. I also smooth out the sides and make sure there is a consistent draft all around. Tangs, like any cast part, usually come pretty rough and need some refining, including un-twisting them.

One thing I never do is bend a tang cold. It's so much easier if you use heat, and you can pinpoint your bends.  Banging a cold tang to straighten it out lacks control, and it would be really difficult to un-twist it without heat.  Hitting the cold metal can also booger up the edges.

You can straighten out your tang if you use heat and a logical systematic approach.  I suggest you first heat it and get the twist out. then find the center and straighten it out sideways, then file for symmetricity, then bend for the wrist profile.

As far as the mortice being too loose, try the spread-by-hammering technique mentioned by others. I have used this method on small parts, but never an entire part like a tang. It should work though, again, just take a systematic approach. Good luck. Bill

[TimberGhost]

Thanks everyone.  These are some really good tips (and I probably should have spent more time perusing the forum prior to starting). I don't think I will have the rifle done in time for the late buck season here in Washington but I will definitely post some pics when it's done.  Hopefully it doesn't warrant me changing my handle to "The Butcher of Puyallup"!  Hey, you gotta start somewhere, right?  Thanks again.

[rich pierce]

You are right that a Hawken is sure a tough build for a first one.  But you'll learn a lot and gain a lot of admiration for the Hawken brothers too!  Don't give up on it, but I have learned to set things aside till I have patience to tackle them again.

[Herb]

TOW's part number for that flint hooked breech is #Plug-LRF-16-3.  The powder chamber is about .360" in diameter by 1" deep and Swiss powders and Goex 2F bridge the entrance.  Bad.  I built this parts set and had a lot of flashes in the pan with this chamber.  I would never use it again, but instead the Hawken 1" flint Breech and Tang.  There you install a flash hole in the side of the barrel ahead of the plug, avoiding that inch long powder chamber.  I finally had to drill the powder chamber out to .440, I think it was.  Then it became totally reliable, even with a .700 flash hole.  Your choices are to use the Hawken flint "Beavertail Tang" plug #Plug-BT-16-3, which is solid and not hooked, or #Plug-FHG-16-3, which has a hooked plug.  Neither has the same tang contour as the flint hooked breech you have.  So you would have to fill the tang inlet and inlet the new (narrower) tang.  Or use what you have and drill that powder chamber larger.  This is an acceptable gunsmithing practice.  I suggest you call Track and discuss your problem with them, even the drilling of the powder chamber larger.