Double Set Trigger Help

[Long Ears]

I have built 3 longrifles with Davis double set triggers and I've still not got one totally right yet. I need some advice please. My problem is the unset trigger pull works but is really hard to pull. I think my problem is I'm not inletting them deep enough. I use the adjustment screw as an alignment point to the center of the V with both triggers pulled like the books say. What I think I'm missing is how do you figure out how deep to inlet them? I have read where you can file the bars off if need be but I've never come close to that. My pea brain says the set trigger bar needs to be a ways from the sear bar to strike it hard enough to trip the lock. Little help please. Thanks, Bob

[B Shipman]

Bob, inletting textbook works, but you'll have a lttle better result putting the set screw just ahead of the sear bar. The front trigger will be a bit more efficient. Inlet until the sear bars just miss unset. And everything works.

The set trigger is meant to be set. The double lever just means that the lock can be released from full or half cock without fiing the lock .

[snowdragon]

I form the bottom wrist/trigger/forearm profile before I start sinking the triggers, then I inlet the triggers flush. After the trigger plate is inletted flush, I work on each trigger independently to make them work by themselves.  In other words, I will work on the front trigger blade so that it works perfectly in the unset mode, using lampblack to see where it's contacting the wood. When the front trigger works on it's own, I work on the back trigger blade in the set mode, again using lampblack to check if it's getting hung up on the wood.

A couple of tricks I use: any material on the front trigger blade that is to the rear of the contact point of the sear bar can be removed. Also, filing a downward radius on the front trigger blade at the point of contact with the sear bar will reduce the amount of trigger pull in the unset mode. Gives it a kind of "cam action".

I hope this all makes sense. Good luck. Bill

P.S. The rear trigger bar doesn't need to be a ways from the sear bar to trip the lock, but if it's too close, it can hinder the the sear from engaging by holding up  the sear bar.

[elk killer]

Bob,
im more than happy to look at it...
Mark

[Bob Roller]

The rear or spring driven trigger must have enough room to take advantage of the release arm
of the sear it acts against.The front trigger release is a matter of leverage and it is rarely an ideal
pull. As far as I know,these double bar triggers are made with the idea that the front trigger will be
emergency use only if there is a spring failure of either spring in the unit.
The rear trigger should also not interfere with the cocking of the lock when the trigger is unset.
This means the lock must be equipped with a "fly"which is a small intercepting cam or be like a lot
of antiques and have no half cock position at all.
I have made a lot of double set triggers but prefer a single trigger which requires the lock be tuned
to that desired level of use.

Bob Roller