Question re: Finish

[PPatch]

The TROPICS you say... yeppers Tom, long about January that sounds nice. On the subject of finishes; I'm swinging back and forth between AF and Chambers oil or an alcohol based stain and Chambers. I don't expect to take it to the TROPICS or use it in the FROZEN north (think Moose Camp) nor shoot it in a deluge so it ought to be fine with a stain for the most part - then again - AF it and forget it more or less. Until it turns deep dark black that is.

dp

[PPatch]

I think if you open a dealership you might get a better rate.  

Naw... let's reverse engineer the Chambers Secret Formula and mix some up in the bathtub - I'll be free with the Scotch, promise.  

We can market it under some catchy name, say "Doctor Boone's Oil de Snake".

dp

[Acer Saccharum]

Hopeless.....

[PPatch]

Yep, some fella mentions little cans, den zoooom off goes the subject de jure. There ought to be a RULE...

Leatherbelly: Send that stock down to the CMP folks at South Anniston, Alabama - They know how to apply a finish that will withstand an honest-to-hoot WAR.

Shake'n da bush hea Boss... back on subject! Or am i... hummm

dp

[Dphariss]

  I think I need to get some mileage outta this smoke pole before I tear it down and strip it down to the bone.The stain looks ok. I'm going to wax it and see what prevails.My greatest fear is that it will look muddy.Thanks all.

Wax is a really bad idea if there is no other finish.
Just let it dry for a few days then oil the thing with a DRYING oil or oil varnish.
Someone made a mistake finishing it, making another mistake will not fix it.
Dan

[cmac]

I just started using refined linseed oil instead of the readily available boiled junk from the store. This stuff is much better...Thinner, so it really soaks in. It has a drying agent and you can recoat in much less time. After 3-4 coats of this stuff I use Tree wax(furniture wax) to seal. So far so good; I spent a good while in the rain/snow last weekend

[Tom Currie]

I knew Dan would be all over that beeswax wax idea. 

[Dphariss]

Actually I was addressing the car wax/floor wax etc idea.
I know a guy that uses more beeswax than most people could believe, he can quote chapter and verse about the properties of the stuff. He is also a skilled stock maker.
He thinks it stupid to use it as a wood finish. There are others who understand wood finishes who feel the same way.
I can look through gunsmithing books and find things concerning stock finish that are incredibly stupid, smearing an oil finish with automotive grease to "dry it" found in "Gunsmith Kinks" from Brownell's. I almost fell off my chair. I am sure there are people here who would read this and think it works since its in a book. Its stupid.
The petroleum oil in the grease dissolves the oil finish. So when the grease is wiped off a day later the finish goes with it.... The idea is based on not knowing what an oil finish is supposed to be in the first place and not knowing how to use it in the second. But this is in a big name gunsmithing book...
For a using rifle its possible to apply boiled oil or a fairly light bodied "fat"  oil varnish to the stock, let all soak it that will. Wipe dry, assemble and put into service immediately and the wood will be protected. I have done this on guns numerous times. Its possible to put finish on the stock at 10 AM and be hunting with the rifle that afternoon and never really add any more oil and it will be fairly dull thought it will shine with handling in a day or two.

Dan

[Long Ears]

I knew this would be a good one! It did however suprise me in the direction it went. Floor finish, Scotch and Tom crawling around on the floor? But the BLO did get honorable mention. Bob

[Joe S]

I’ve been using a variant of Kettenburg’s Brown Varnish, or common varnish as it is also called in period literature, and I’ve been very pleased with it.  The oldest gun that I have it on is about five years old now, and it has seen a lot of field use in all kinds of weather.  The varnish holds up in rain and snow, and doesn’t crack when you ding the stock.  I expect it to hold up for another 195 years or so.

[Jerry V Lape]

Joe S.  

You sort of left the question hanging on what and/or where you acquire this varnish.  Is it a formula for making your own or a product commercially available?   Or is this a product Eric Kettenburg offers?

[Joe S]

Kettenberg had some for sale a while ago, but you’d have to check with him and see if he has any more.  The Montana Historical Gunmaker’s Guild occasionally has some for sale.  I make my own.  I could send you the recipe if you’re interested.

According to period literature, this was considered to be an exterior grade varnish, suitable for window sills and other high exposure applications.  One source also mentioned that it would withstand boiling water.  I’ve never found any sources that specifically said it was being used on guns, but it was apparently a readily accessible high grade varnish, so it would seem inevitable that it ended up on some guns.  Kettenburg may have specific references to gun use.