Homemade Patch Lube Recipes

[Dphariss]

I am always amazed at some lube recipes.
For example a freind has made a successful business in bullet lube because Alox was so horrible when combined with BP fouling.
Other petroleum products are almost as bad. Others are OK.
I use Water Soluble oil (cutting oil, blue in this case) mixed 1:7 to 1:5 with water then dried so the water is gone for matches. But it requires wiping every shot.
For hunting I tend to use tallow, Neatsfoot oil (not usually Hog lard oil) or my diminishing supply of Sperm Whale oil.
Most people will find that Pure Neatsfoot will work really well for hunting or anytime the rifle will be left loaded for any thing more than a minute or two.
I make the tallow by repeatedly boiling first beef fat for 30-40 minutes, then the tallow that solidifies when the water is chilled. Reboil this 2-3 times with clear water and the tallow will be clean and non-corrosive. Its not only traditional but works very well and the rifle can be left loaded for long periods, months. As can Neatsfoot, Bear oil or other natural oils. But oils can migrate into the powder, the tallow does not at least at normal temps.
Some of the water/oil mix stuff people concocted worked really well but were not safe for barrel steel, at least not as some people used them as patch lube or especially as cleaners. I don't use water based lubes. Though I can understand Daryl & Co. using them given the photos they show of winter shoots in the Great Frozen North


Dan

[SPG]

Gentlemen,

I just mentioned this word of caution over on a BPCR site.

When concocting your own patch lube from whatever ingredients seem to be "right", consider that many of the fats and oils contain salt. This must be removed, if possible. Salt and barrel steel don't get along too well, especially our modern high carbon varieties.

This is also applies to removing the residual honey (sugar) from the beeswax that many use in bullet/and or patch lube.

Steve

[Black Hand]

Bear grease.

[stone knife]

I have some that came with some stuff I bought, it is neatsfoot oil and lard. It works great.

[bgf]

I've gone minimalist for matches and use water as a patch lube when temps. are above freezing, water with a little alcohol when its cold enough to freeze a patch.  On the woodswalks, I use straight vegetable oil (soy or canola).  I used to use the oil for targets as well, but it requires more intensive cleaning (or the oil will build up eventually and cause flyers) and the water shoots and loads well in my GM barrel. 

As far as evaporation, I use a small spray bottle on the patch right before putting it on the muzzle to cut.  Two or three squirts are generally enough, but in very hot (common) and dry (uncommon) conditions, I may add a little more.  Also, if the rifle sits unloaded as between paper targets, an extra squirt or two can help on the first loading afterwards.

This is my current understanding and practice -- I'm sure I'll get bored and try something else in the future !

[TMerkley]

I have not done enough shooting in the last few years to use my pre lubed patches up from about 15 years ago.  They began to dry out. So, since I recycle my used motor oil for blacksmithing, I put a little into an old CLP (Army) bottle and put my old patches in an empty medicine bottle with a little oil.  Not Historically Correct, but quite efficient in the field and on the range.  The oil on the patch does a good job on loading to prevent further rusting if the round stays in the breech for a while during deer season.  Motor oil does a good job of penetrating the pores of the metal and loosening up the carbon in the bore. In a pinch I use spit on the patch. I have great luck with the motor oils especially 15w40 on the 50 BMG at the range.  Great high temperature properties.

[Paul Griffith]

I have not done enough shooting in the last few years to use my pre lubed patches up from about 15 years ago. 

I've seen pre lubed patches sort of rot after a while. I think that was with water soluable oil treatment.

Paul

[WaterFowl]

Deer tallow-bear grease blend for hunting.....bear oil for lock lube.

[Hessian]

I use deer tallow for most everything from waterproofing to patch lube.


I boil it, allow it to harden, scrape the impurities off the bottom of the "cake," then do it again. After several times it loses all unpleasent smells & becomes pure white & solid.

I often sew my balls into patches & dip into melted deer tallow.(Not those balls!) I keep them in a small leather pouch inside my shooting bag. They seem to be plenty accurate but I haven't "benchtested" them yet.

Hessian

[duca]

Due to the inclement weather being here much of the year & it seems sometimes most of it freezing weather, many of us use a water base with alcohol and the addition of an oil to slow down the evaportion in hot summer weather - maybe it aids in lubrication, but it shoots virtually identically to spit.  Do not use water based for hunting - it may rust your bore depending on it's composition.

Our mix usually is similar, shoter to shooter and is winter windshield washer fluid with some form of oil added - I use Neetsfoot oil - about 6 ounces, maybe 8 or so to 1 gallon can of fluid. Shake, and pour off into a smaller container. For the last 4 years, I've been using Blue Thunder brand- it's the cheapest and has no teflon in it.
A $4.00 gallon of -35 to -45 fluid lasts 2 winters & summers of considerable shooting. No cleaning or wiping needed while shooting- no difference from using mink oil or Neetsfoot oil lube while hunting - again, no wiping needed - at least up to 80 shots for the day with no wiping- that's the most I've shot on a trail.

Hey Daryl, I'm going to try your recipe- 1 gal. wwf and 5oz. of pure Neatsfoot oil. I see in other post by you the recipe changes a little. In one you say 6 - 8oz. of Neatsfoot oil. Is this a trial and era thing? Also, i noticed there is a separation with the oil and wwf. When shaken it will go back to separation again. I wonder how Ballistol would work?  Thanks.

[dagner]

water with a drop of dawn in it

[blaksmth]

 I use water soluable oil and water 1/3 oil to 2/3 water for target shooting and I use this to clean the barrel with after wards then a light oily patch for storage

[Canute Rex]

Snippet of a conversation I once had:

"So, when you muzzleloader guys talk shop, what do you talk about?"

"Um, well, lube, uh lubrication, you see..."

"I don't wanna know."

4:1 rubbing alcohol and neatsfoot oil, by the way.

[Grizhead]

I mix GO-JOE hand cleaner and mink oil   50/50

[Daryl]

 

Due to the inclement weather being here much of the year & it seems sometimes most of it freezing weather, many of us use a water base with alcohol and the addition of an oil to slow down the evaportion in hot summer weather - maybe it aids in lubrication, but it shoots virtually identically to spit.  Do not use water based for hunting - it may rust your bore depending on it's composition.

Our mix usually is similar, shooter to shooter and is winter windshield washer fluid with some form of oil added - I use Neetsfoot oil - about 6 ounces, maybe 8 or so to 1 gallon can of fluid. Shake, and pour off into a smaller container. For the last 4 years, I've been using Blue Thunder brand- it's the cheapest and has no teflon in it.
A $4.00 gallon of -35 to -45 fluid lasts 2 winters & summers of considerable shooting. No cleaning or wiping needed while shooting- no difference from using mink oil or Neetsfoot oil lube while hunting - again, no wiping needed - at least up to 80 shots for the day with no wiping- that's the most I've shot on a trail.

Hey Daryl, I'm going to try your recipe- 1 gal. wwf and 5oz. of pure Neatsfoot oil. I see in other post by you the recipe changes a little. In one you say 6 - 8oz. of Neatsfoot oil. Is this a trial and era thing? Also, i noticed there is a separation with the oil and wwf. When shaken it will go back to separation again. I wonder how Ballistol would work?  Thanks.
[/quote]

5 ounces, maybe 8 or so - no real definite mix- I add SOME oil to the WWWF and it works pretty much identically, ever time. the only trouble I've had, is with patches that have been lubed, the lube drying out, then re-lubing, left over patches drying out, relubing and not the oil content is very high. Some guns change POI with too much oil, as the lube is getting slicker than what the rifle was sighted in for. Just something to watch for.

Shake the lube before applying to the patches - I keep the lubed patches in a tin, in my bag.  Once in the cloth, there is no separation - ie: no problem.

Taylor tried some Balistol - straight up, as an after cleaning oil and his barrel rusted while in camp (damp conditions). I have not tried it as a result of his almost disastrous experience.  I know other guys swear by it.  I have no NEED for anything but what I am currently using and have used for many years.  It works for us.

[duca]

Thanks Daryl, Off to the Range!

[Trooper]

I'm going to try 50% beeswax and a crisco mix to see how that works on my 50. Up to now, I've been using Mink oil purchased from Track what works great so far.

[OldMtnMan]

Kill a bear.

Cut off fat.

Render fat.

Put on patch.

Go kill more bears while snacking on bear jerky.

[smylee grouch]

I have never had any luck with Bees wax or Crisco for patched round ball shooting.

[Rick Anthony]

I have been using a 50/50 mix of bear grease and buffalo tallow for the last 25 years. deer tallow is just as good. I render it myself so there is no salt or other impurities in it. I figure it is as as authentic as any other. works for me.
                   
                              Happy Fathers Day-  Rick

[Bob McBride]

I'm going to try 50% beeswax and a crisco mix to see how that works on my 50. Up to now, I've been using Mink oil purchased from Track what works great so far.

 I use beeswax as a stiffener but I抳e found more than 10% and your rifling starts to gum up. If you have good luck with a 50% beeswax combo I抎 love to hear about it. Im always on the lookout for a firm hot weather lube.

[OldMtnMan]

I'm going to try 50% beeswax and a crisco mix to see how that works on my 50. Up to now, I've been using Mink oil purchased from Track what works great so far.

 I use beeswax as a stiffener but I抳e found more than 10% and your rifling starts to gum up. If you have good luck with a 50% beeswax combo I抎 love to hear about it. Im always on the lookout for a firm hot weather lube.

You like to test stuff Bob. Give this a try and see what you think. I switched from Mink Oil to this and I like it.

https://www.octobercountry.com/bumblin-bear-grease-4-oz/

[wolf]

50/50 dawn dish soap and water. after 30 shots i can load a tight patched ball with ramrod, the ball slides down like silk and no swabbing at all. the bore is halfway clean when you are through shooting,,,,,,,,,,,,,

[Dennis Glazener]

I'm going to try 50% beeswax and a crisco mix to see how that works on my 50. Up to now, I've been using Mink oil purchased from Track what works great so far.

 I use beeswax as a stiffener but I抳e found more than 10% and your rifling starts to gum up. If you have good luck with a 50% beeswax combo I抎 love to hear about it. Im always on the lookout for a firm hot weather lube.

You like to test stuff Bob. Give this a try and see what you think. I switched from Mink Oil to this and I like it.

https://www.octobercountry.com/bumblin-bear-grease-4-oz/

Wow it ought to be good at $64 a pound plus shipping.
Dennis

[OldMtnMan]

That 4 oz does a lot of patches Dennis. It is pricey compared to Mink Oil but that's kind of typical of bear products.