An actual choke, not a tapered bore, is done by using a lead lap. Basically, lead is poured in the barrel around a rod to make a lead "plug" that exactly fits the lands and grooves. The plug is pulled out, imbedded with abrasive compound, then carefully replaced in a heavily oiled bore. The plug is pulled back and forth through the barrel, but stopping about 1-1/2" from the muzzle (I may not be exact on that measurement). The idea is to open up the bore, except for the very end, without wearing down the rifling. When the plug becomes loose, it is repoured, but this time stopping more than 1-1/2" from the muzzle. With each new plug, the lapping motion stops a little further away from the muzzle, so you end up with about a 3/4" transition from the old measurement at the muzzle to the new opened up bore size. This make a slight constriction at the muzzle, just like a choke in a shotgun barrel.
I have never done this myself, as any proof of whether or not choking adds to the accuracy has yet ot be proven. As for loading, I hear it's tight at first, but gets real easy as the ball passes the choke. Hope this helps. Bill