Cylinder bore shooters usually have a bit of work in front of them to find a load that doesn't shoot donut patterns. If you've got a load that shoots well, GREATl Some shooters want to use their gun for turkey or migratory birds and for RB hunting too, big game one the menue.
In order to extend their shotgunning range, jug choking is a natural for a bore that doesn't have enough barrel wall for back-boring - the preferred system for choking today. For instance, if you wanted a full normal choke in a gun barrel, you'd start with a 14 guage tube and leave about 1" to 1 1/4" of the end of the barrel, the nominal .690" (full choked 12 bore), then back-bore it to 12 bore. That way, it would have a standard full choke. The end-choke, the last 1" to 1 1/4" 'normallizes the shot charge before it exits the bore. This type of choke usually delivers better patterns than a swaged choke, where the end of the barrel is hammered or swaged down to the choke 'size' desired. For the full choked 20 bore barrel, a tube of .575" would be used, and back-bored to .615" - again, leaving .040" of choke.
On a gun barrel already made, reaming or ginding out a 3" long section of the bore, 1" back form the muzzle is easier and doesn't change the size of the barrel's bore yet gives a choking or tightening effect to the shot cloud, effectively closing in the do-nuts of the cylinder shot cloud and extending the shot cloud's killng range. Jug chokes usually weren't ground out deeply, until just recently. The normal jug choke was only up to about .010" judging from what I've read on the subject, about 1/2 way between an improved cylinder and modified choke. Today, they are being round much more deeply by some businesses, witness what they are calling a full jug choke. I doubt it has .040" thou per side depth - but you never know for sure until you measure one. I haven't. .040" is a lot of choke and perhaps that one won't shoot round ball well.
Had to edit this - I was fallng asleep as I worte the initial post.