Author Topic: linspeed oil  (Read 6605 times)

chuck-ia

  • Guest
linspeed oil
« on: January 01, 2013, 12:34:14 AM »
What is the difference between linspeed oil and truoil? I allso see linspeed oil referred to as GB linspeed oil? Am to the point of finishing my stock and not sure what to use. In the past I have used stains from laurel mt. forge and such, used permalyn, and a Chambers oil finish. The finish would wear through the forestock and wrist area in less than a summer shooting, would look ok if it was a 40 year old gun, but not a basically new gun. On the gun I am working on now, I got up the nerve to use aqua fortis, actually turned out pretty good, (won't get into the neutralizing thing) now just have to decide what finish to use. Getting a little off topic, but I think the aqua fortis goes deeper into the wood, and with the right finish I may not see any handling marks for a few years? Then there is tung oil? Advice? My last gun, a trade gun, I left the wood as is and used tru oil, used it a lot the past 2 years, rain, snow, had a foot of the butt stuck in mud while duck hunting, had ice froze on the whole gun, still looks pretty much new. With that in mind am leaning toward the tru oil, but open to suggestions. thanks, chuck

Offline Clark Badgett

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 2263
  • Oklahoma
Re: linspeed oil
« Reply #1 on: January 01, 2013, 12:58:20 AM »
If you are refering to 100% pure Tung oil, while it is not exactly a period finish I do prefer it over the garden variety of available boiled linseed oil. I am hoping to try Mr. Phariss' method for making true boiled oil by the spring. Maybe he'll come along and expound upon it.
« Last Edit: January 01, 2013, 01:03:46 AM by Clark B »
Psalms 144

Offline JCKelly

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1434
Re: linspeed oil
« Reply #2 on: January 01, 2013, 01:01:57 AM »
For a finish that can tolerate weather, go to the local art store, or online dealer, & purchase "stand oil", which you may wish to thin with honest-to-gosh Pure Spirits of Turpentine, also from the same art supply. This (maybe under a different name) can deaden the grain a bit in fine walnut but made the US military happy through the 19th & half the 20th centuries.

Offline Keb

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1193
  • south Ohio
Re: linspeed oil
« Reply #3 on: January 01, 2013, 02:14:06 AM »
I've always used plain old run of the mill hardware store boiled linseed oil. Call me old fashion, stubborn or any other name you like but I'll stick to that over all other finishes.

Offline Dphariss

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 9920
  • Kill a Commie for your Mommy
Re: linspeed oil
« Reply #4 on: January 01, 2013, 04:15:24 AM »
Linspeed is a softer varnish than Tru-Oil and is slower drying so its easier to work.
Tru-oil is to hard and fast drying for most uses and needs to be diluted with Boiled Linseed oil to make it more elastic and easier to use.
Dan
He who dares not offend cannot be honest. Thomas Paine

Offline kutter

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 715
Re: linspeed oil
« Reply #5 on: January 01, 2013, 04:49:22 AM »
The 'GB' in Linspeed was for George Brothers,,the original inventor of the stuff,,if inventor is the right term..

I've never liked either Linspeed nor Tru-Oil.
They dry nice in their containers but I never did have good luck with them on the wood. I gave up on both of them in the 70's. But they were the DIY gunstock finishes of the time,,still are from what I read.
Linseed oil based varnishes of some concoction I'd imagine. Driers and solids added.

I've had great results with tung oil varnish. It actually drys for me and stands up to use and weather.
An artists supply drying linseed oil is what I use for a rub down over the top of the finished surface.

Everyone has a favorite when it comes to wood finish. Whatever gets you the results & look you're after..
I've seen some great finishes done with both those products.