Files, rasps, and chisels - looking for feedback on

[ebodell]

Hello to all. Obviously from my member information I am a new member here and this is my first post. I am preparing to build my next rifle and wanted to get some input on chisels, files, and rasps. I have built a few rifles from low cost kits in the past, however, this will be my first rifle from one of the better kits (Jim Chambers Early Lancaster) and I know I need to buy a couple of stock working tools. I need to buy a cabinet makers rasp, a couple of chisels, and fine cut files. Nicholson products (files and rasps) have been referenced, in particular the Nicholson #50 Cabinet Makers rasp. But in my research I have found indications of a significant decline in product quality since they moved production outside of the US. What do some of the more experienced builders recommend in terms of tool manufacturers for the above mentioned tools? I am an engineer by trade so I like to have tangible data prior to making decisions.
Thanks to all in advance.
Cheers

[Luke]

good day and welcome,if you going to use some hand tools get the best you can get even if you have to buy them one at a time,i purchase alot of my tools ,one at a time from tradional wood worker,or tools for wood working.they are good folks .ive had good luck with the henry taylor line,of chisel they are sharp and hold an edge,also ashley iles,also i bought an aurioa wood rasp,and it is top notch. just remember most of the time you get what you pay for,well thats my two cents.the guys in here will guide you in the right direction just like they have done for me.luke

[PPatch]

Hello and welcome to the forum. Dave here and I am working on my first rifle, like yours a Chambers Lancaster. The only place you will likely use a rasp is on the butt plate install. The Chambers kit stock is pretty close to final dimension and other tools can get you there fairly quick. I purchased an Auriou brand rasp from this site:

http://www.lie-nielsen.com/catalog.php?cat=543

Mine is a 10 inch, 9 grain – it exceeded my expectations in butt shaping work on the Lancaster and I am sure would be very useful if working from a blank.

The most useful chisels I have found for my build are the smaller flat chisels, 1/8th inch to ½. One chisel I bought from Track of the Wolf was a ¼ inch wide crooked neck made out of bar stock ( I have since made a couple of others like it for other jobs), I used it a lot as a scraper and a chisel for finish bedding of the barrel. For gouges again the smaller sizes are useful but choice, since there are so many available, is according to what you anticipate your need will be, general carving out this and that or for decorative work.  Check out Acer’s tutorial on carving here on ALR:

http://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=23123.0

Lots of useful information in the Tutorial section, I go there often.

Regards Nicholson files, yes, quality is down unfortunately – I have found  a few in small hardware stores that have Made in the USA stamped on them – I snapped them right up and they are great files. Do not purchase any files at the local Mega Home  repair places, you know the two main ones… Their Chinese made files are out and out junk. Anticipating my build I purchased several, including a 4-in-1 rasp, my old one had gotten dull after years of use. This new one lasted about a half day of working oak, I noticed it becoming harder to remove wood, and the file skating on the wood (thought I was just getting tired). Upon examining the file I found it practically worn out. You are most defiantly going to need some good files but will, as I have, buy them made in Germany or Switzerland. I have some of those on order. You will need a good 10 inch mill file for barrel work and some small ones for working on the lock and other steel parts, keep the good files for steel. If you have them use old files for brass work. Here is a good link to file and stones for steel:

http://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=2585.0

Our man Acer knows his stuff – as do many here far more than I, like I said I am working on my first rifle.

Good luck on your build and you have chosen one of the best kits available, Jim Chambers and his crew are  top notch as are the products he sells.

[Luke]

sorry,  thats traditional woodworker. i cant spell

[Acer Saccharum]

Nicholson pattern used to be finer, and with a wave pattern.

Now they are Brazilian made, with coarser teeth don't go as close to the edge of the file. The pattern is more regular, which can set up a washboard effect when rasping.

I really dig the Ariou rasps. Pricey, but cut like the business.

[rickw]

Now they are Brazilian made, with coarser teeth don't go as close to the edge of the file..

That's true. I bought a Nicholson #50 from Jamestown a couple of years ago, and that describes it exaxtly.
I sent it to Boggs File and Tool to be sharpened, along with some other files and rasps. It came back super-sharp, and performed like it's supposed to.
So, if you're looking for a Nicholson #49 or #50, you can assume it will need sharpening.
Rick W

[Acer Saccharum]

I heard of Boggs, but never tried them out. I may do just that, send my old #49 and #50 out to them.

[volatpluvia]

I never used the rasp much, even when building from a plank.  I used a file a little more but not much.  I used the parting chisel the most to shape, once the plank was cut into a blank and the edges were squared, etc.  I also used two handsaws to get to the point of chiseling.  I also used the spoke shave some to start the rounding off of the blank.
I would never let a rasp near a precarved stock.  A file yes.
volatpluvia

[James]

I really dig the Ariou rasps. Pricey, but cut like the business.

I was a skeptic about the Auriou rasps, but after seeing glowing reviews I ordered a 12" G 3, a 10" G 7, and a 10" G 11. They are an incredible joy to work with. Absolutely the right tool and made to work.

[Bob Roller]

Are these Ariou rasps for wood or metal or both? Where can they be purchased?

Bob Roller

[heinz]

Bob, The Auriou rasps are for wood.  Awesome tool for what it is designed to do. 

To all, do not overlook garage sales and antique markets for chisels and gouges, any Stanley, Buck, Wade and Butcher arebgood products and you will need to learn to sharpen them anyhow.  Dull rust files are not such a good investment.

[James]

Meant to put this in my earlier comment  http://www.forge-de-saint-juery.com/acatalog/Rasps_for_Wood.html   
There is a slight wait, but it is worth it.

[ebodell]

Thanks to all for the replies and links! My kit should be here sometime next week and then the research and final planning can begin. I figure I have a couple weeks of planning and additional research and reading prior to any actual work on the rifle. I tend to be very slow and methodical on projects such as these.
Cheers,
Erik

[mattdog]

I heard of Boggs, but never tried them out. I may do just that, send my old #49 and #50 out to them.

I've had great results from Boggs.  I even sent them my precious set of Swiss needle files and they came back good as new. (they are over 20 years old)  I send them my worn mill end bits too.  When I get a package back from them it is like Christmas to me. 

[Bob Roller]

  Where is this Boggs that resharpens files and end mills?
I have a bunch of end mills that need help and while I know
how to do it,I don't have the equipment.

Bob Roller

[cunninmp]

Bob R,
Boggs Tool is in Paramount, CA. They have prices on their web site.
Because I don't have a Toll & Cutter Grinder anymore I'm going to
give them a try.
Their method for sharpening files is liquid honing. About $3.00 to $6.00
a file depending on length. Here a link to their site:

http://www.boggstool.com/page18.html

Mike C.  Groveland, CA
 

[PPatch]

  Where is this Boggs that resharpens files and end mills?
I have a bunch of end mills that need help and while I know
how to do it,I don't have the equipment.

Bob Roller

California: http://www.boggstool.com/page18.html

First file is free for new customers.

dave

[Bob Roller]

 Many thanks to Dave and MikeC for the location info on Boggs.

Bob Roller

[sdilts]

Another that you might want to try are the Iwasaki files available from Woodcraft. These are extremely sharp and cut more like a plane than a rasp. They do not gouge the wood and leave a very smooth surface. You can remove a lot of wood in a short time.

[Danny H.]

Welcome, ebodell. Best of luck to ya. I'm new to this, but I was a Machinist for about 10 yrs (old school, no CNC). As previously mentioned, you get what you pay for.