Author Topic: dry spots in stock finish  (Read 3238 times)

Micah2

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dry spots in stock finish
« on: March 21, 2013, 02:34:19 AM »
I need some advice.  I have a walnut stocked fowler that I finished with nothing but Chambers stock oil finish and R Wax.  Overall the finish looks great but in a slanting light there are "dry" streaks on the buttstock.  It has been about eight months since I finished it, and its really not too bad, but I am bothered by it.  It is not noticeable to others but it is all I see if you know what I mean. 
If I had to bet it cannot be fixed with successive coats.
Any advice?  Thanks

Online KLMoors

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Re: dry spots in stock finish
« Reply #1 on: March 21, 2013, 04:10:32 AM »
I've had great luck touching up Chambers' oil, even on a gun that had some Johnson's paste wax on it.

I cleaned the area with a little water and simple green. (That's my standard mild cleaner for just about anything.) Then I lightly steel wooled it, if I remember correctly, and then rubbed it down with oil. It was a couple of years ago, but I am pretty sure that is all I did. It has held up just fine.  Chambers oil touches up and blends in amazingly well.

I know Jim Chambers uses Johnson's paste wax, so he or Barbie may have a suggestion on something you can use to be sure you get all the wax off.

Offline Dphariss

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Re: dry spots in stock finish
« Reply #2 on: March 21, 2013, 05:08:41 AM »
I need some advice.  I have a walnut stocked fowler that I finished with nothing but Chambers stock oil finish and R Wax.  Overall the finish looks great but in a slanting light there are "dry" streaks on the buttstock.  It has been about eight months since I finished it, and its really not too bad, but I am bothered by it.  It is not noticeable to others but it is all I see if you know what I mean. 
If I had to bet it cannot be fixed with successive coats.
Any advice?  Thanks


You need to put on more oil as a sealer. It is best if the first coat is thinned perhaps 1:4 with real turpentine that has been aged for 2-3 days in a shallow pan. This will add O2 to the turp and will cause oil the is IN the wood to set. When the first coat is applied it needs to be applied until the stock will accept no more. Spots that suck up more oil will turn "dry" looking so add more oil to these places. When they stop looking dry after a few minutes soak then  wipe it dry and put it in the sun if possible and turn it every 1/2 hour or less and WIPE it as necessary.
The oil will set rapidly in the sun and if a build is left of the surface its not going to be pretty,
So rub it with a piece of burlap if little beads show that have dried in the sun.
Let it set overnight. NOW add some oil in a THIN COAT on undiluted oil to see if it soaks in anywhere. If so put more on.  Once a thin coat can be put on and it stays shiny then its time to carefully top coat to get a shine VERY thin top coats if the wood is smooth the wood will finish up very quickley now.
In winter it may take longer since warm UV is not  an option in many places.
If the finish is done right and the oil properly formulated and from reports Chambers is then top coating with wax is just window dressing.  Its something manufacturers do to put a shine on something that is nto quite shiny enough. They also use other over the counter bandaids.
One more thing if you have the time leave the stock for a week after the final seal. Rub it with a soft cloth or your hand and see if it takes a shine. Soft oil varnishes tend to dull with lack of handling and shine with handling. Excessively built up finishes are much harder to repair than a finish that is mostly in the wood.
The initial seal coat(s) are critial and many do not take the care needed to make SURE these are right.
Dan
He who dares not offend cannot be honest. Thomas Paine

Offline Dphariss

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Re: dry spots in stock finish
« Reply #3 on: March 21, 2013, 05:11:36 AM »
Filling Walnut with Chambers is an unknown to me but American walnut takes heavy coats of a softer oil to fill after its sealed. But I don't think my methods will work with oils that dry hard.
Dan
« Last Edit: March 21, 2013, 05:12:08 AM by Dphariss »
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Micah2

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Re: dry spots in stock finish
« Reply #4 on: March 22, 2013, 03:00:03 AM »
Thanks for the info.  I am going to touch it up and if I dont like it, I will strip it after turkey season.  I used three coats of oil with two days of drying time in between, but I let it dry in a dark spare bedroom and not in our sunroom.  Perhaps the initial coat was not dry and I wiped some off with the second coat.
Again, I am probably being over critical.  I envy the courage of first time relief carvers.... I havent got the stomach yet.


Offline Pete G.

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Re: dry spots in stock finish
« Reply #5 on: March 23, 2013, 01:37:27 AM »
I always use a coat of linseed oil as part of the cleaning process after shooting. After all the fouling is cleaned up I'll wipe a coat of regular boiled oil over the wood and then polish off any excess with a paper towel. After a while it will begin to take on the glow of a well cared for antique.