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Author Topic: Laurel Mountain Barrel Brown  (Read 3384 times)

Offline Danny Jones

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Laurel Mountain Barrel Brown
« on: April 04, 2013, 11:24:32 PM »
I am refinishing an iron mounted mountain rifle. Having had good luck with Laurel Mountain Barrel Brown and Degreaser and running a little low is there anything I can add to what I have left that will not significally slow the rusting process to keep from having to order anther bottle? I'd like to add about 25% of something to what I have.  Danny
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North Louisiana

greybeard

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Re: Laurel Mountain Barrel Brown
« Reply #1 on: April 05, 2013, 12:05:09 AM »
Danny;   L M F  browning is quite agressive and I like it diluted about half with water.
A bit slower but it reduses the risk of pitting.
Just my personal thoughts. No guarentees.   Bob
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Offline Danny Jones

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Re: Laurel Mountain Barrel Brown
« Reply #2 on: April 05, 2013, 04:00:16 AM »
Thanks Bob. That is just what I wanted to hear.
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Offline Hungry Horse

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Re: Laurel Mountain Barrel Brown
« Reply #3 on: April 05, 2013, 07:33:10 PM »
 I don't know about Laurel Mt. products, but have had experience with True Brown, and Ol' Thunder in the past. An old gunsmith told me that to get a lighter brown, with really fine grain, reduce the solution, with denatured alcohol, of better Shellac reducer ( A more concentrated form).

                           Hungry Horse
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eddillon

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Re: Laurel Mountain Barrel Brown
« Reply #4 on: April 07, 2013, 07:30:43 PM »
Quote from: greybeard on April 05, 2013, 12:05:09 AM
Danny;   L M F  browning is quite agressive and I like it diluted about half with water.
A bit slower but it reduses the risk of pitting.
Just my personal thoughts. No guarentees.   Bob

You are so correct, Bob.  I dilute to 50/50 with distilled water.  Great solution for bringing out Damascus, also
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Offline flehto

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Re: Laurel Mountain Barrel Brown
« Reply #5 on: April 09, 2013, 03:00:45 PM »
Just finished browning a LR w/ LMF and for unknown reasons {anyways to me}, a shiny "crust" formed on some lock parts and areas of the bbl  after the third  coat. Carding w/ denim couldn't break through the crust, so used green Scotchbrite and that did. After removing the crust, I lightly went over all surfaces of all the parts and after 2 more coats,  achieved a nicely colored, lightly etched matte finish.  The  browning was done in a makeshift "sweatbox" which previously worked fine. Seeing I've had after rust problems using baking soda, I've been using household ammonia  and it really "kills" the rusting process.  Diluting the LMF sounds like good advice and will do on the next LR.  Thanks for the info......Fred
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