Author Topic: Stock Stain  (Read 7768 times)

Offline whitebear

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Stock Stain
« on: April 05, 2013, 10:09:29 PM »
I have seen references in this section of using leather dye from Tandy as a stock stain.  The question is will one small bottle cover a longrifle stock, or will I need more.  I want to get what I need but I don't want to get a gallon to have left over if not necessary.
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Offline Hungry Horse

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Re: Stock Stain
« Reply #1 on: April 05, 2013, 11:47:13 PM »
 Great stuff if you only shoot at night, and keep it in a dark closet. It sun fades like the devil.

                    Hungry Horse

Offline Long Ears

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Re: Stock Stain
« Reply #2 on: April 05, 2013, 11:48:55 PM »
One small bottle would probably do 3 or 4 rifles. Get a good permaline (SP?) finish that has UV protectant. I have had one rifle fade real bad using oil finish. Bob

Dogshirt

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Re: Stock Stain
« Reply #3 on: April 06, 2013, 03:22:32 AM »
Use it full strength and it will fade to what you are looking for.

Offline whitebear

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Re: Stock Stain
« Reply #4 on: April 06, 2013, 05:02:01 AM »
Use it full strength and it will fade to what you are looking for.

How does it know what I am looking for?  (Sorry I couldn't resist.)
In the beginning God...
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Offline wpalongrifle

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Re: Stock Stain
« Reply #5 on: April 06, 2013, 05:32:11 AM »
Leather stain or wood stain?? Working on a gun or possables bag, Kinda like ordering a steak at McDonalds!!! Then complain steak was over cooked and resembled a shoe sole?? Use what's been tried and true.  ???
« Last Edit: April 06, 2013, 05:33:07 AM by wpalongrifle »
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JoeG

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Re: Stock Stain
« Reply #6 on: April 06, 2013, 05:42:40 AM »
why use a leather dye on wood
if you are going buy something to satin your stock there are many good options available
and the wood a lot better

also Tandy sells more than one type of dye
they have alcohol, water and oil base stains   Beware of what you buy

Offline Dphariss

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Re: Stock Stain
« Reply #7 on: April 06, 2013, 06:10:11 AM »
Most modern stains leave a lot to be desired as far as color fastness is concerned. Many modern finished are not that great either.
Dan
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Offline curly

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Re: Stock Stain
« Reply #8 on: April 06, 2013, 03:21:40 PM »
I agree with WPAlongrifle, use what has worked for years. Laurel Mountian Forge has been on all my rifles for over forty years without fading. Why take the chance of making a huge mistake now? Oil based stains with darker pigment that just lay on top of the wood for the most part, can and do fade also over time.
Curly

greybeard

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Re: Stock Stain
« Reply #9 on: April 06, 2013, 07:26:50 PM »
I agree with WPAlongrifle, use what has worked for years. Laurel Mountian Forge has been on all my rifles for over forty years without fading. Why take the chance of making a huge mistake now? Oil based stains with darker pigment that just lay on top of the wood for the most part, can and do fade also over time.
Curly

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Offline D. Taylor Sapergia

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Re: Stock Stain
« Reply #10 on: April 06, 2013, 07:38:19 PM »
Before I knew about Ferric Nitrate, I would have agreed.  I have built a lot of longrifles and stained them with Fiebing's leather dye.  It is an alcohol based dye that penetrates deeply into the maple.  It does have a tendency to 'bleach' out in the sun, though on two of the nicest pieces of wood I used, the stain is the same today as it was twenty years ago.  Other stocks faded a lot.

But none are as bad as when I tried Laurel Mountain Forge's stains.  They seem to be pretty UV safe, but they leach right out of the wood and through the finish onto my hand.  The forearm and wrist of the rifle, where the gun is gripped fades terribly and I can't abide it.

So I went to Ferric Nitrate, accepted whatever the hue it blushed out to be, and have never looked back.  It is permanent.  I doubt you'd scrub it off with steel wool.
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Offline Gene Carrell

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Re: Stock Stain
« Reply #11 on: April 09, 2013, 12:27:18 AM »
I have  to agree with Taylor.  I started using ferric nitrate  this past winter on maple,  ash and cherry. I think it is great, easy to control and does not  require neutralizing.  I  dissolve the crystals  in alcohol and it does not  raise the grain.
Gene

keweenaw

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Re: Stock Stain
« Reply #12 on: April 09, 2013, 04:39:05 PM »
Leave the leather dye for the leather.  If ferric nitrate on your TEST pieces of wood is lighter than you want try swabbing the wood with a tannic acid solution first, let it penetrate and dry and then use the ferric nitrate.  Don't go overboard on the tannic acid.  If you put on too much you can get an almost black finish.  Also remember that the color of the stock stained with ferric nitrate will change quite a bit as the finish is applied on top of it  so don't just stain you test piece, finish it as well and make sure it is sanded or whatever to what you're planning to do to the stock.

Tom

Offline whitebear

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Re: Stock Stain
« Reply #13 on: April 10, 2013, 07:37:09 PM »
Thanks folks for all the information I think that as Taylor said I will invest in some ferric nitrate.
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mjm46@bellsouth.net

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Re: Stock Stain
« Reply #14 on: April 11, 2013, 04:46:51 AM »
Where do you get Ferric Nitrate Crystals?  The source I just located said they would cancel any order going to a residential address. And how much is required to make a good stain?

Offline JDK

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Re: Stock Stain
« Reply #15 on: April 11, 2013, 04:53:17 AM »
I've ordered it from here without problems:  http://www.sciencecompany.com/Search.aspx?k=ferric+nitrate

The 100 gram bottle will go a ways.  Enjoy, J.D.
J.D. Kerstetter

Offline Dr. Tim-Boone

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Re: Stock Stain
« Reply #16 on: April 11, 2013, 05:05:39 AM »
What JD said.
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