Steel Wool Woes

[BrushCountryAg03]

For prepping a stock before finishing, why do the majority of builders advocate the use of Steel Wool?  Does it do something that sandpaper can't?

Personally, I hate using it, especially the #0000 stuff...It falls apart in your fingers and gets all over everything, not to mention the stock.

Am I missing something?

Thanks everybody,

 Will

[Rich]

I agree with you. Also, if the steel fibers get stuck in the wood and rust, it will leave spots.  I use scrappers for most of the work and a little sandpaper if needed.

[Kermit]

Maybe 3-M pads in various colors and textures? I don't use steel wool on raw wood. You could hunt up bronze wool, I suppose. Never tried it meself.

[snowdragon]

I don't use it on gunstocks any more, as it does have the potential for little pieces to break off and imbed into the wood.  I do use it, however, when finishing turned bowls and such.  I use it on the bare wood, then to buff down the finish while the bowl is spinning.  I use a new pad so it stays together better. Bill

[oldarcher]

I guess I have a love/hate relationship with steel wool. I use it to cut back oil finish as well as on some metal work, but I also use brass wool (which is coarse) and Scotch Bright Pads. I have a fairly strong magnet which I use on the stock after I use steel wool, it picks up some steel fibers but not all. The few that are left in the wood disappear in the finish as they are sealed in the wood. If they are left in the wood and rust (?) they don't show as the rust is similar to the stains that I use. I use scrapers as well but not on the oil finish, only before the stain and finish are applied. I think that you should use whatever you are comfortable with.

[Acer Saccharum]

After finishing little fibers of steel wool into the finish, I noticed occasional bright flecks deep in the finish, so I stopped using it. I changed to wet sanding with thinned finish and wet/dry paper. This was on cartridge guns with walnut stocks.

[Dphariss]

For prepping a stock before finishing, why do the majority of builders advocate the use of Steel Wool?  Does it do something that sandpaper can't?

Personally, I hate using it, especially the #0000 stuff...It falls apart in your fingers and gets all over everything, not to mention the stock.

Am I missing something?

Thanks everybody,

 Will

It depends on the situation. I don't use it on maple.
Yes it does things sandpaper can't but like all things it must be used properly.
Depending I may use burlap instead since its less aggressive.
Its a tool I use for some things.

Dan

[flehto]

After some whiskering, of the stock, the carving is gone over w/ green Scotchbrite, the stain{s} is applied and when dry, 0000 steel wool removes any unabsorbed  surface stain. Three coats of sealer are  applied and the 0000 steel removes any surface sealer. Then the final 3 coats of finish are applied. In hard maple, whether red or sugar, I've not had any problems w/ 0000 steel wool. Of course everytime it's used, a thorough vacuuming is done......Fred

[BrushCountryAg03]

After some whiskering, of the stock, the carving is gone over w/ green Scotchbrite, the stain{s} is applied and when dry, 0000 steel wool removes any unabsorbed  surface stain. Three coats of sealer are  applied and the 0000 steel removes any surface sealer. Then the final 3 coats of finish are applied. In hard maple, whether red or sugar, I've not had any problems w/ 0000 steel wool. Of course everytime it's used, a thorough vacuuming is done......Fred

If you don't mind me asking, what is it about Steel Wool that allows it to remove unabsorbed stain & sealer better than sand paper, scotch guard, etc?  I'm really trying to understand this. 

Thankyou!

[Dennis Glazener]

If you don't mind me asking, what is it about Steel Wool that allows it to remove unabsorbed stain & sealer better than sand paper, scotch guard, etc?  I'm really trying to understand this. 

Thankyou!

Too be honest I don't know for sure but I have better luck lightly rubbing down finish with it than with 600 grit, 600 grit fills with finish so quickly, I use a new piece and before I know it I am down to the wood! I suspect its the fineness of it and also the way it cuts evenly without cutting through the finish to the wood. I know that I have far better luck NOT cutting through the finish with it than I do with any sand paper I have tried.

I want to try the fine Scotch guard to see if it does as well as 0000 steel wool. I just keep forgetting to find some of it.
Dennis

[Jerry V Lape]

I think the real advantages of steel wool are its flexibility and non clogging nature.  A pad of steel wool can wrap over an edge being rubbed without cutting through the finish quickly as a sheet of sand paper might.  We have all sanded through on an edge at one time or another.  Steel wool, because it is an open structure doesn't fill up as quickly as a comparably fine grit sandpaper does when cutting off excess finish for example.  Wet and Dry paper helps a lot in this regard but still no quite as non clogging as wool.  I imagine steel wool gained it's original popularity before wet and dry paper in 400, 600 and finer grits came along.  

[Jim Kibler]

I'll second the synthetic steel wool.  Schotchbrite is good as is the stuff made by Mirlon.  Mirlon is a little more flexible and seems to work a touch better in my view.  There are some other varieties that don't work well at all.  There are lots of uses for this stuff.

[flehto]

I use 0000 steel wool because it's more resilient and isn't as harsh as sandpaper asre edges and doesn't cut into the wood...yields a more burnished look. Have only used the green "Scotchbrite" ....where  are the other grades available?....Fred

[kutter]

I usually find the other finer grades of ScotchBrite at stores selling auto finishing supplies. Auto Parts Stores usually have a finishing section.
There happens to be a good wood shop near me that sells it as well,,but at premium prices.
There's always the 'net' I guess.

I don't recall the actual grit #'s, but I buy the gray and the maroon colored pads.
The white colored ones are even finer but to tell you the truth, I haven't had much luck with that grade at all. No cutting action,,not even the feel for me when using it of using 0000steel wool.

I've pretty much omitted the use of steel wool in my shop. Once in a great while on a wood finish that has the pores filled and is very hard I'll use it to knock down the gloss.  Other than that, it just seems to always dump on you with a few shards of shiny wool stuck in an otherwise perfect finish. Always discovered of course when everything is all done.

Scotchbrite for metal polishing too. Use with oil for a nice burnished finish. Same idea as using a wire wheel w/oil.
I use a gray or maroon pad (dry) for the last polish before a rust blue job on many occasions. If I get a streak or small spot of discoloration in the finish as I go along, I use a small piece of the same grit pad to gently polish out the problem. You will remove some of the color of course, but the polish lines are preserved. The next coating/cycle or two will bring you right back up and even with the rest of the work.

[Jim Kibler]

The white schotcbrite doesn't have any abrasive in it.  I buy the Mirlon stuff from Homestead Finishing.  I find the maroon most useful, but also use the gray.

[Ed Wenger]

I too use the maroon and gray pads.  I find it does everything steel wool does, only a little better, and you don't have the dusty wool that steel wool leaves behind. 


         Ed

[bashermax]

If you want to avoid wool, try using 400, 600 1000 and even 1500 Wet-or-Dry sand paper.  Gator Grit brand 600-b is probably as fine as you might need on wood.    Wool or Sandpaper needs a tack cloth after to remove either dust or "fines"

[WadePatton]

I have seen but never used bronze/brass wools.  wonder if any gun makers use these--especially those trying to avoid modern products.

those who use modern stuff--automotive finish stores, ultra papers and full compliment of 3m pads...always.

scraping is the new black for all but rubbing back yo.

[PPatch]

Link to Mirka's Merlon synthetic steel wool - the maroon and gray abrasives Jim Kibler speaks of and available on Homestead Finishing'swebsite: http://www.homesteadfinishingproducts.com/htdocs/Mirkaabrasives2.htm


Thanks Jim!

dp