Trigger guard issue

[Scout]

I have inletted the trigger on my " Verner parts kit that's not a Verner" build I'm doing and everything fits nice.  Lock and trigger work great !

By the way since I was informed the parts are mostly incorrect the school is called the Mongrel Rifle School of North Central Florida. Started by "Scout" using Various other Famous rifle school parts assembled by a novice builder. 

Now for the "issue".
I started to set up for the trigger guard inlet/install and noticed that the front part of the guard including the forward fastening lug ends up over the trigger plate, no interference with the triggers, just too long a plate. I would either have to cut a slot into the plate or relocate the lug towards the front in order to make it work. That part of the guard has a taper to it and is a bit smaller/thinner than the trigger plate so it's not going to look correct either way.
I realized after the fact I should have shortened the plate towards the front prior to inletting to allow the guard a clean fit.

Any suggestions? 

[bama]

If the rear of the front finial will cover the width of the inlet of the trigger plate then cut the trigger plate back to the length needed. Inlet the front of the guard with the lug in it's current location. Make sure you leave enough trigger plate to install a tang bolt into it. If you still have trouble with the lug not allowing the guard to be placed correctly then you can narrow up the lug a little. If that still does not help then you can still do a couple of things. You can move the whole lug forward or you can eliminate the lug and use a screw to hold the guard in place. That is not my preferred method but there some originals out there that were done this way.

[pushboater]

"The mongrel rifle school of north central Florida." Now that's funny! If you can't build what makes ya happy, then why build at all? I like your attitude.

Capt. David

[Paul Griffith]

Moving the lug ahead may interfere with the ramrod.  I would consider cutting back the trigger plate behind the lug, again there should be enough trigger plate to have the tang bolt thread into it.  But that should happen either way. As to the problem of the front tang on the gaurd now being narrower than the previously inlet trigger plate. Fill this in with wood before inleting the gaurd & if it shows when the gun is done a bit of flat black paint left behind in this neighborhood much like some 200 year old patina would cover nicely.

Paul

[Hessian]

"The mongrel rifle school of north central Florida." Now that's funny! If you can't build what makes ya happy, then why build at all? I like your attitude.

Capt. David

I agree! More power to ya Scout!
(You might just start a movement .)
Hessian

[JB2]

"Scout's Mongrel School"!  I'm joining!  

Interested in your solution too.    I think I may have a similar issue soon on my Mongrel School squirrel gun.

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

Scout, I know this is retrospective, but you can avoid this sort of issue in the future if you make a drawing full scale of your rifle in profile.  Draw in all of the components, and you will soon see where things need to be shortened, or reshaped.  I make these drawings on a half sheet of Bristol board paper, from just for'd of the lock to the butt plate, and now have a nice collection of reference drawings.

[Scout]

Scout, I know this is retrospective, but you can avoid this sort of issue in the future if you make a drawing full scale of your rifle in profile.  Draw in all of the components, and you will soon see where things need to be shortened, or reshaped.  I make these drawings on a half sheet of Bristol board paper, from just for'd of the lock to the butt plate, and now have a nice collection of reference drawings.

Thank you sir. That's what I will do on my next one. I thought I was going slow and thinking everything thru, double/triple measuring etc. I guess that one got by me.

[Dphariss]

Many of the parts we get are really generic rather than specific to a particular and will need modification to work with a given project. Even parts made FOR the project may need work. Like making complete lockplates due the paired parts being a little "off".
Checking the relative fit of the TG and Triggers is a good idea before they are installed in the stock. This will assure that the TG and triggers will work with each other or the modifications can be done before inletting.
This, and drawing as Taylor has stated can save a lot of hair pulling.

Draw the outline of the stock will locate the parts before sawing the blank out.
I did not draw the triggers in here. But I tried with the TG and laid on the stock them to assure everything was going to mesh properly.


Dan

[Scout]

This build so far has been an enjoyable learning experience made easier from advice from you folks.

Thank you all for the help and ideas.


Skip 

[PPatch]

Scout:

I had the same issue on my Mongrel. I chose to file a slot for the trigger guard foot:






dave

[Jim Kibler]

Typical treatments on original guns include filing a step on the guard and/or inletting the front of the trigger plate deeper in the front.  It's actually pretty common to see the plate be a little straighter than the stock contour and then dive a little below grade as the guard is approached.  I sort of resisted doing this for a while, but I've done it on a few guns and it works well and looks fine too.

[Scout]

Dave: Looks great, nice idea !

Jim: Thanks for the info.

It's going to be a coin toss for me as far as which one I go with.