Wood Dust Filling Gaps

[QuanLoi]

In the past when I installed wire inlay, the final act of fitting was to file and sand down to ground surface.  After the sanded dust filled the gaps, I wet the inlay to expand the wood somewhat.  If a gap occurs in, lets say, a patchbox inlet, is it feasible to fill the gap with wood dust and thereby "eliminate" the gap prior to finishing?

Thanks in advance...

Decker

[mjm46@bellsouth.net]

I prefer to stretch the brass of the patchbox from the back with a blunt chisel. Use the chisel like a cross peen the brass will stretch mostly across the peen and only a little lengthwise. Good way to fill small gaps. You may have to refile some to finalize the shape.

This method works for all inlays and can't be detected unless the inlay is removed.

[Mark Elliott]

I do use saw dust mixed with wood glue to fill some gaps.   Since I "age" most of my guns with a wash of lamp black oil paint,   if the stain doesn't take on the filler, then I just don't scrub all the black paint off there.   However,  I do "stretch" metal where I can.   In your case,  I think Micah's suggestion is the best course of action.     If the part is removable like a trigger guard, lock plate, or tang, then you do have to "stretch" the metal or leave the gap as a filler wouldn't hold.    You do have to use some judgement as to which will do the least damage or cause the least additional work.    Obviously,  you wouldn't want to take a hammer to a lock plate that was already finished.

[Mike Brooks]

Best plan is to make a good inlet with no gaps. Otherwise, just live with it.

[Jim Kibler]

First, I don't think using wood dust is too good of an idea.  Once a good inletting technique is learned, the need for such fixes is very minimal.  If you have made a mistake, stretching the metal is good.  If this won't work, live with the gap or fill it by glueing in a patch.  After doing a little restoration, fixes like this seem like much less of a big deal.  Done well, they won't be seen.  Again, with all this said, a good techniqe for inletting is super important.  I've taught quite a number of classes and have thought that a class just on inletting parts would be good.  I don't expect it would be too popular though.

[PPatch]

I would answer your question this way: No, that is if the "filler" will show when the rifle is finished. Sawdust mixed with glue will always show as a different texture and color in a finish. Mark recommends peening, good. Jim applies "age" and leaves that area covered, also good.

One thing I have learned about making inlays with curves, especially inside curves, is to be sure to refine all those curved edges so that they are a true continuous curve, no little flat spots. The reason is that where those flat spots meet the curve (on both ends) it will show up as a gap once you cut in.

dave

[Micah2]

Hey Micah thanks for posting the stretch technique, I am a newbie and that is the good stuff.  I love this website.  Cool name too.

[KLMoors]

I have a roll of maple edge banding from my cabinet making days. It works well for slim gaps. Sometimes, you'll need to custom shape a piece of solid maple, but edge banding works for most small gaps. Mine has a heat activated glue on it, and I take the glue off with laquer thinner before using it. I don't trust that glue for outdoor use.  Stain the area and the sliver and let them dry before gluing it in.

http://www.woodcraft.com/category/2083212/maple-edge-banding.aspx

[bama]

I agree that streching the metal can be done as well as the other methods mentioned by others. I have used fine wood dust that has been stained prior to gluing for repairing minor stock defects and that has worked well.

The best thing is to learn how to properly do an inlay as Jim mentioned.

The first class I took at WKU was how to make and inlet a patchbox that was taught by Gary Brumfield. In this class I learned to file a slight bevel to the part being inlaid. Then using a very sharp scribe you scribe around the inlay with the scribe tilted so you scribe the inner portion of the bevel of the inlay. Then you stab in the the design by stabbing straight down along the scribed line with Gary´s little tool. I think that tool has been disscussed before on this site, so see the archives for it´s details.

If careful with the stabbing you will end up with a very well fitted inlay. There are other methods that work very well but I like this one. After I have the inlay fitted I will wet the stock and swell the wood around the inlay. Once you have this done you will not have even the slightest gap.

[Mike Brooks]

After I have the inlay fitted I will wet the stock and swell the wood around the inlay. Once you have this done you will not have even the slightest gap.

No better advice has ever been given. I might suggest using magnification (even reading glasses) and learning the proper use of inletting black will improve your inlays.  Last word on my part is, learn how to inlet properly and you don't have to learn how to fix gaps.

[Kermit]

Two things, from a furnituremaker, not a gunbuilder. Wetting to swell only works if the wood was compressed, such as when stabbing type cuts were made. The chisel/whatever is a wedge that forces fibers apart and compesses a bit. If it was pared away with a sharp tool, the fibers were cut, not compressed. Swelling only lasts as long as the wood is wet, ne pas? And I always hang on to offcuts when building a piece in case I need to insert a "dutchman" to correct some kind of owie. Teeny pieces can then be cut off with a handplane set sharp and fine, and color and grain matched easily. I can tighten up handcut dovetails or other gaposis this way with wood from the same stick. Plan to keep your gaps small, and this works.    Doesn't need doing often, but frequently enough to keep me in practice.

[Jim Kibler]

There are several techniques that work well.  One that I like most is the method John Bivins described in one of his Rifle magazine articles on stocking a longrifle.  This is reprinted in the book Gunsmith Tips and Techniques.  A quick summary is as follows:

-File a draft on your parts to be inlet.
-Position and mark the outline with a sharp scribe or marking knife.  
-Using a veiner (deep U-shaped gouge), cut a trough to the waste side of the marked line.  This provides a place for wood to move when stabbing in.
-Using gouges and chisels, place them directly in the marked line and form the outline.  Pay attention to bevels and angle  tools appropriately in order to get a square cut.
-Get rid of the waste inside the stabbed lines quickly with a gouge or chisel.  Stop just before final depth and then true up the bottom with somewhat more care.  

In my experience, the part will often fit first time whith this method.  You can use some transfer compound to true up the bottom of the inlet a bit after the part fits.  A final tip that helps with depth control is to make a flat bottom drill with a stop or step the depth of the part being inlet.  A few holes can be randomely placed and provide a quick guide in removing material.

Again, I can't stress enough, good technique and becoming proficient at inletting.  Practice on scraps.  Honestly, I can't recall having to glue in scrap pieces of wood to fix an inlet.  I've stretched metal before, but that's about it.  

[Kermit]

Since Jim mentioned "marking knives," here's an article by Chris Schwartz on these tools. A quick read and gander at the photos will have you folks making your own. Stupid simple.

These are double bevel knives, but some true Luddites like me prefer a pair of single bevel knives. Mine look a lot like the small Hock in the photos but single beveled. No handles either. Mine were made by a shop mate with knife making expertince about 35-40 years ago. They're never loaned! Marking tools like this and a zero-set backsaw with a rip file keep me accurate with dovetails. Jim's technique with a small shop-made marking knife sure sounds like the way to go.

http://www.wkfinetools.com/contrib/cSchwarz/z_art/markKnives/markKnives1.asp

Blades beveled on both sides are NOT acceptable once you've tried this type. No X-Acto knives for this wood butcher.

[Jim Kibler]

Yes, single bevel marking knives.  That is they are only sharpened from one side.