Author Topic: Saw Blades  (Read 5690 times)

LURCHWV@BJS

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Saw Blades
« on: May 28, 2013, 06:12:19 PM »
  HELLO ALL,

     I've been wanting to try something for quite a while now, and have just recently acquired the tools and partial knowledge on how to go about doing so.

     I'd really like to make and engrave my own patchbox. I an wondering since I have no clue just exactly which blade size to buy, I figured this is the best place to ask.

     What size sawblade would be good as a general purpose blade for cutting brass from thinner stuff to say up to a 1/4in? 

   I've found to sites where I can buy them buy the gross, but there are several to choose from, and being a novice well, I think you'd know what I'm saying.



    Rich

Offline P.W.Berkuta

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Re: Saw Blades
« Reply #1 on: May 28, 2013, 06:40:24 PM »
Need more info on the type of "saw" you are using. If you are referring to a jewelers saw and want to cut thin sheet brass up to 1/16" then you want a blade with a fine tooth say 4/0 but it will depend on how you are supporting the metal and your technique in the saw's use - how tight are the radius you want to cut, speed of the cut. The larger the saw blade number the finer the teeth and if you are cutting over 1/16" stock you need a hacksaw not a jewelers saw - my opinion. Buy a FEW different sizes and try them to find out what works best for you for what you are trying to cut.
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mjm46@bellsouth.net

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Re: Saw Blades
« Reply #2 on: May 28, 2013, 07:58:47 PM »
I like to use 1 or 0 the smaller you get the easier they break

LURCHWV@BJS

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Re: Saw Blades
« Reply #3 on: May 28, 2013, 08:53:40 PM »
P.W.

   I plan on using a scroll saw. Delta 16".



    rich

Offline Rolf

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Re: Saw Blades
« Reply #4 on: May 28, 2013, 08:56:22 PM »
Fewer teeth pr inch gives a quicker cutting action but less controll. A good rule of thumb is 3 teeth = the thickness of sheet metal to be cut.  1/16" sheet metall => 3x16 =>48 teeth pr inch

I have a delta scroll saw. It does not work well on sheet metal. This is because the blade does not move 100% vertical , but rocks abit when it goes up and down. This makes it easy for the blade to catch on the sheet metal and break. I quite using it. I get better and quicker results with a jewlers saw. I cut these lockplates out of 4mm (little more than 1/8") brass  with a jewler saw. Each lockplate took 1 blade size 6 (the coarsest available)and 20 minutes

Best regards
Rolf

« Last Edit: May 28, 2013, 09:12:25 PM by Rolf »

Offline Long Ears

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Re: Saw Blades
« Reply #5 on: May 29, 2013, 02:09:50 AM »
Good luck with that scroll saw idea. Jewelers saw may work a lot better. Bob

Offline Acer Saccharum

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Re: Saw Blades
« Reply #6 on: May 29, 2013, 06:02:27 AM »
Lot fewer broken blades if you run the saw up and down, and support the work on a peg with a slot cut in it for the saw.

Let the saw do the advancing thru the material. Push the saw, and you have a broken blade. Also let the saw eat its own way round the bends, then it will not bind. A binding saw will break. An occasional rub on the blade with a  bar of soap or beeswax helps lube it and slip thru the stock easier.

photo on right is the saw set up.
« Last Edit: May 29, 2013, 06:03:03 AM by Acer Saccharum »
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Offline bjmac

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Re: Saw Blades
« Reply #7 on: May 29, 2013, 07:45:45 AM »
in the jewelry industry, the rule if thumb is "at least 2 teeth " of the blade should be in contact with the material to be cut.

Michael

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Re: Saw Blades
« Reply #8 on: May 29, 2013, 01:47:11 PM »
I cut sheet brass up to 1/4" thickness on my Delta band saw. I use a 1/8" fine tooth blade used for cutting scroll cuts in thin wood. Just cut slowly and don't force the blade. It sure saves time!! It helps the lube the blade with some beeswax occasionally.

Offline KLMoors

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Re: Saw Blades
« Reply #9 on: May 30, 2013, 01:48:01 PM »
I have a scroll saw too, and I haven't found any blades that will cut sheet brass worth a dang.

I now use a coping saw to cut sheet brass. I use the "Robert Larson 540-7550 Coping Saw Blades For Metal" in my coping saw for most of the cutting. These are way tougher than jewler's blades.   I switch to the jewlers saw for the fine work.

Offline Acer Saccharum

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Re: Saw Blades
« Reply #10 on: May 31, 2013, 04:37:31 AM »
I now use a coping saw to cut sheet brass. I use the "Robert Larson 540-7550 Coping Saw Blades For Metal" in my coping saw for most of the cutting. These are way tougher than jewler's blades. 

I just learned something! Thanks! These would be perfect for thick metal, lockplates, sideplates, etc.

pack of 12: http://www.amazon.com/Robert-Larson-540-7550-Coping-Blades/dp/B0012XNAWO/ref=pd_sxp_f_pt
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Offline T*O*F

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Re: Saw Blades
« Reply #11 on: May 31, 2013, 06:21:39 AM »
I have cut patchbox thickness brass in my Dremel scroll saw by gluing it to 1/4" plywood.  Had to hold it tightly against against the table or it would chatter.  Wore out blades quickly.  Don't do it anymore and went back to my Knew Concepts jeweler's saw.
Dave Kanger

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Offline KLMoors

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Re: Saw Blades
« Reply #12 on: May 31, 2013, 01:45:19 PM »
My pleasure Acer. Lube them with some beeswax and they last a long time. Once I got the hang of them, I found I could cut suprisingly tight radii with them.

Offline moleeyes36

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Re: Saw Blades
« Reply #13 on: May 31, 2013, 03:31:53 PM »
Rolf,

Those are really nice looking locks with the brass plates you made.  Did you solder the pans to the brass plates you made?

Mole Eyes
Don Richards
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Offline Rolf

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Re: Saw Blades
« Reply #14 on: May 31, 2013, 07:33:41 PM »
No, the cock, pan , frissen and guts come the small siler lock. The pan is attached with a screw.
The locks are  for a pair of swedish officer pistols and are not finish jet.  Havee to convert them to brideless frissens and file the lock plate mouldings.

Here is a link to the same pistol buildt by Runarstava.
http://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=22826.0

Best regards
Rolf