Fitting a cast nose cap to a swamped barrel

[frogwalking]

I have a chambers Early York kit.  The barrel is swamped, and the cast nose cap is proportioned to fit the flare.  The stock is flared to match the barrel.  Do I bend the rear portion of the nose cap apart enough to slip it over the barrel and inletted stock  and then bend it back to snug against t he barrel?  Or is there a better way?  Once in place, I will rivet it, but how do I get to that status?

Thanks,

Frog

[necchi]

It's interesting that the wood stock is flared to match the barrel??
Usually the forearm is kept straight to keep the lines of a rifle not a barrel??

That said, and without seeing your nose cap, it's typical that the nose cap is inlet to the front of the rifle, with wood being removed so the outside of the nose cap is flush with the rifles forearm, then the barrel "lays down" on the nose cap,,

Again maybe I'm missing something in the explanation of how your nose cap is shaped internally,,

[KentSmith]

I disagree with the shaping of the forearm.

I use poured pewter or formed sheet single piece sheet metal nosecaps and haven't done a cast nose cap in 15 years so I can't help much.  If I remember correctly I removed the top sixteenth of the stock in the nosecap inlet and slid the cast cap in place snugged up against the barrel.  I peaned the rear portion if necessary.  but then I don't so these so others will have a better idea.

[Acer Saccharum]

My forestock wood flares along with the barrel, so the cap must conform, too. That doesn't make it right, it's just what I like to do.

It's been 15 years since I last used a cast cap, but I do remember struggling with it. But I struggle with every cap, each has its own personality.

The cap I used was smaller at the muzzle end, and it flared larger toward the open end toward the lock. I recall I fit it to the end of the stock, and did a tremendous amount of filing to get it to be straight-ish with the top and bottom lines. Hopefully, your cap will be smaller than the barrel, so you will have to file the inside of the cap to fit the contour of your barrel. Save this fitting until AFTER you've fit the cap to the wood. You may have to squeeze the cap smaller to be snug to the barrel sides.

[Ky-Flinter]

Frog,

My experience with these cast nose caps is they are so thick, they are not easily formed (bent) to form to the stock.  I think you have 2 choices.....

One, pare the wood down so the cast nosecap will slip on, then when it's finally fitted, use some epoxy to fill the resulting gap between the wood and the inside of the cap.  (I know, I know.... blasphemy!)  You can rivet it so it looks correct from the outside.  

I don't like the above option.  I would recommend you make or buy a nose cap of thin sheet brass or steel.  Keep it annealed and it's easily formed to follow the contour of your stock wood.

Good luck!

-Ron

[smallpatch]

frog,
I'm not sure what you are getting at.  I just fitted one of these a short time ago, and it went without a hitch.  Once you get it inlet, there should be no gap.  You shouldn't have to spread the cap either.  True, you can't slide it onto the barrel from the front, but if you inlet it where the cap will sit, put it in place, then slide the barrel back down into the cap. Like Necchi said.
I hope this helps, maybe I don't understand the question.?

[Ted Kramer]

Frogwalking,

Right or wrong, this is how I inlet cast nose caps on a swamped barrel and it works for me.

Once you know exactly how far  your nose cap will be inlet rearward on the stock, remove the barrel and fit the nose cap back against the forestock wood using a small straightedge to keep it in plane with the bbl. channel bottom and sides. Then insert the barrel to check for final fit between it and the nose cap. You may have to re-fit a little, then re-check with the barrel inserted until you have it right. Then fasten with a small headed 4-40 or 5-40  screw from inside the barrel channel. I use a screw so it can be removed easily if ever necessary.

Sheet metal caps can easily be "sprung" over the flared muzzle but cast caps usually don't act the same.

Hope this helps.

Ted K

[frogwalking]

Thanks to all.  It is going easier than I thought.  I forgot the wood of the stock is getting pretty thin under the nose cap as it approaches final dimension, and is therefore easy to bend.  I have about got it.  I sometimes need to think less and just begin cutting.

Frog.

[whitebear]

  "I sometimes need to think less and just begin cutting."

Frog.

That's where I get into trouble.