You have all the parts you need there except for the clinker breaker and dump gate and they can be easily made. That's a Vulcan style firepot tuyere. Like was said earlier, the pot goes down through the top. The tuyere which is fastened to the blower in the picture bolts to the bottom of the pot. It appears that the stud bolts are broken off of the pot. If the flange on the tuyere is sound, you may be able to simply drill holes in the bottom of the pot and bolt it on. If not, you'll need to grind the rust off of both pieces and braze them together. Don't forget that you need to install the breaker between them first. The rod fits in the grooves in both the flange and the pot. The breaker itself can be made of round stock, (cast iron if possible) with about a one inch hole or just a little bigger through it. If this piece is ground to a roughly triangular shape it will easily break up clinkers.Drill or weld (or braze) a rod to it. One end should be made long enough to stick out from the forge far enough so that you can reach it. That end will be bent into an L shape. Weld the other rod opposite and on the same axis. The one on my forge is nearly round, but the rods are offset giving it a cam action. As for the blower, if it's not working, take it apart and see what the problem is. I've seen old grease freeze one up along with mouse nests and rust. Give it a good cleaning. You might have to replace a bushing or two or weld some teeth on a gear or two, but it's not that big a job. You'll save a heap of money if you can. Same with the firepot. I've bought products from Centaur Forge and they are very good to buy from, but they like their stuff a lot. Last time I saw a Vulcan firepot in their catalogue it was $250 and I'm sure it's higher now. Another thing I did once to repair a Vulcan was to make a tuyere out of 2" sch. 40 pipe. Put a Tee in the middle with a reducer (stuck a 3" stove pipe in the big end), run a piece down a few inches and hooked the ash dump gate to it. I threaded a heavy 2" screw on flange to the upper piece after I run the pipe through the bottom of the pot. Covered the flange with refractory cement and made a grate out of a fuel cell baffle from a missile (hey, it's all I had). I'd recommend a cast iron grate. The problem with this setup is that it spreads the fire more and you can't clear clinkers without tearing the fire up. And you can't get as deep a fire. You want to have a deep fire. It's funny that his post came up now. I just finished brazing my pot and tuyere back together. It had been brazed only where the stud bolts had been and years of use, heat and moisture had weakened the joints. It's got a more substantial braze this time. By the way, it looks like your dump gate is simply a plate with a boss with a hole drilled in it. Bolt it to the bottom of the tuyere and it simply slides open. You might want to weld a handle to it so you can open it easily. Many old ones just have short projection and if it gets a little rusty or jammed with cinders it can be a pain to deal with. A little windy, but may help you save some money.
