Author Topic: Stabbing in tools (Read 14540 times)

smallpatch · « **on:** August 12, 2013, 12:22:09 AM »

OK, gentlemen I have convinced myself that stabbing in relief carving by far gives cleaner, more properly shaped carving. Here is where the trouble begins....... I have a whole series of different sweep gouges, but it seems like I never have just the right one.
I remember a post here some time back, from Gary Brumfield I believe, about some miracle stab in tools.

Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance!!!!

tallbear · « **Reply #1 on:** August 12, 2013, 12:25:53 AM »

Dane
Here are mine.The widest is a little less than 1/8".

Mitch

John Archer · « **Reply #2 on:** August 12, 2013, 12:34:12 AM »

http://www.flintriflesmith.com/ToolsandTechniques/shopmadechisels.htm

I think this is what you're looking for.....from Gary's website.

John.

Acer Saccharum · « **Reply #3 on:** August 12, 2013, 12:49:30 AM »

I just happened to start a stabbing job today. I've not got the million different gouges, so I just made up a 1/32 wide straight tool. It's like faceted curves, but from five feet away, those little flats will disappear.

PPatch · « **Reply #4 on:** August 12, 2013, 01:03:10 AM »

My job today was inletting silver escutcheons on the forearm of the Lancaster and I stabbed them in with a tool similar to those shown on Gary's site. Love that technique, it really works for inlays. One good reason is it is so controllable, the best benefit is that wood closing in when you wet it.

I've never thought of stabbing in relief carving.

dp

Acer Saccharum · « **Reply #5 on:** August 12, 2013, 01:09:31 AM »

I think most relief carved furniture is stabbed. Most of the European gun carving is stabbed. Some American gun work is, much is not.

Acer Saccharum · « **Reply #6 on:** August 12, 2013, 03:04:49 AM »

I started stabbing the carving in today on my project. I first did a parting tool outline, and quickly realized I didn't have the control I thought I did. ( I either thought I still had, or never had it; old age, you know, has a funny way with your ego and abilities)

Anyway, this is something different for me, and I'm having fun with it. I'm using a gouge to stamp only where it fits, then a 1/32 with straight tool to 'step' around the curves.

tpr-tru · « **Reply #7 on:** August 12, 2013, 03:51:17 AM »

Acer, it seems someone mentioned you suggested five tools (chisels) for carving in your demonstration at Dixon's.
If so, can you repeat them here. Sorry I missed your demo that day. Thanks

Acer Saccharum · « **Reply #8 on:** August 12, 2013, 04:54:47 AM »

I have always promoted Vee tool over stabbing, but I am trying stabbing this time.

For the above, I used a 1/32 flat for stabbing, and a few gouges of the right curvature in a couple of places.

For backgrounding: a fishtail #3 sweep x 12 mm wide, a knife, a 1/8 wide flat, and then scrapers.

For the other tools, there is a tutorial I did a number of years ago. Some of that tutorial pertains to the above style, but not all of it.

LRB · « **Reply #9 on:** August 12, 2013, 01:02:32 PM »

Exacto knives.

doug.brayman · « **Reply #10 on:** August 12, 2013, 02:21:38 PM »

Quote from: aka tallbear on August 12, 2013, 12:25:53 AM

Dane
Here are mine.The widest is a little less than 1/8".

Mitch

Did you buy or make those?

tallbear · « **Reply #11 on:** August 12, 2013, 04:00:55 PM »

Doug
I made them from some chisels I wasn't using.They are based on Gary Brumfields "Little Stamping tool".There is no commercial maker of them that I know of.

Mitch

Acer Saccharum · « **Reply #12 on:** August 12, 2013, 05:16:01 PM »

Old needle files re-ground and polished would be just perfect. Set them in a wooden handle.

Mitch, I like the size range from 1/8 down to 1/32. I'll be patterning mine after these. The ovalized bits will lessen the 'stepping' effect I'm experiencing. Thanks for the great photos.

Mark Elliott · « **Reply #13 on:** August 12, 2013, 08:15:01 PM »

Mitch,

I like those chisels of yours. I have some chisels I am not using that I think are going to get reground. Thanks for the idea.

Mark

tallbear · « **Reply #14 on:** August 12, 2013, 08:27:04 PM »

Thanks guys,wish they were my idea but Gary Brumfield deserves all the credit.They are based on his "little Stamping tool".Gary preferred a straight chisel while I prefer the rounded nose but basically they are the same.They are very handy.I use them for inletting, stamping carving and with matching bottoming tools for silver wire work.Gary made his from piano wire I believe.

Mitch

tallbear · « **Reply #15 on:** August 12, 2013, 08:33:46 PM »

Looked back through my files and found pics of Gary Brumfields stamping tool.

Mitch

Acer Saccharum · « **Reply #16 on:** August 12, 2013, 09:05:40 PM »

Mitch, I like your design the best. Flat on one side, convex on the other. With this tool, you can easily walk around a curve, with the flat side in, and convex side out. A nice fat handle for my nice fat mitts.

tallbear · « **Reply #17 on:** August 12, 2013, 09:17:14 PM »

Tom
Mine are convex on both sides.

Mark Elliott · « **Reply #18 on:** August 12, 2013, 09:37:31 PM »

I have one of Gary's little tools, and I have been meaning to make a set from scratch out of 1095; but I like your idea of re-purposing chisels you don't use. I usually do thins the had way. It takes other to figure out the easy way.

Acer Saccharum · « **Reply #19 on:** August 12, 2013, 10:10:53 PM »

Quote from: aka tallbear on August 12, 2013, 09:17:14 PM

Tom
Mine are convex on both sides.

Sorry.

I will make mine flat on one side, and convex on the other. I'll let you know how they go.

Sawatis · « **Reply #20 on:** August 13, 2013, 02:56:56 AM »

I've used a stamping tool like this ever since Gary showed me one in KY a couple years ago. Does a good job...but something I have run into on red maple and cherry, when you go across the grain, it gets a bit rough...breaks through instead of slicing in. I've gotten to lightly scoring my lines in these sections with a carving knife before I stamp and it comes out smooth. Any of y'all ever run in o that?
John

Acer Saccharum · « **Reply #21 on:** August 13, 2013, 03:36:33 AM »

Thanks for that tip. Every little piece of the puzzle helps.

Tom

Acer Saccharum · « **Reply #22 on:** August 13, 2013, 03:53:42 AM »

I'm grinding up some tools right now. Flat on one side rounded on the other. I'll have to pay attention when going around the turns, just like when I'm driving the car.

PPatch · « **Reply #23 on:** August 13, 2013, 04:12:12 AM »

OMG... the Mayor has to drive his own car!? This world is slip'n I tell ya.

Funny about the flat side, I noticed when I was stamping those inlays yesterday that I got a better result line wise if I kept the flatter side of my tool to the inside. Maybe there is something in that Tom. Do let us know. When I made them I made two out of yard sale screwdrivers, one is thinner than the other and it does not perform as well as the one that is slightly thicker. If your experiment works I may reshape it to a Flatsider.

dp

Acer Saccharum · « **Reply #24 on:** August 13, 2013, 04:35:05 AM »

A while back, I made some miniature stamp tools for wire inlay. Same kind of shape. Round on the face, flat on the back. I had some really tight turns to make.

I kept mine flat on the back, round on the front. Keep the flat to the inside of the turn. Makes yummy turns. Just don't mix up which side is which. Easy to do if you can't see.

How do I know that?

News:

Author Topic: Stabbing in tools (Read 14540 times)

doug.brayman

Sawatis