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Pedersoli Northwest Gun

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JCKelly:
I'm curious what opinions this forum may have about a little problem of mine. Last Spring I got back into muzzle loading with a Pedersoli Northwest gun. Nicely made & finished piece, but I get only about 5 shots before I must knapp or replace the flint. Was advised to try a lead flint cap rather than leather, guess its an improvement but not by much. Then a week or two ago I chanced to read Lt. Col. G. Bomford's 1823 Regulations for Proof and Inspection of Small Arms  He noted that the balance between main and hammer (frizzen) springs affected the amount of fire, and whether the sparks "fall fairly into the pan" Never did like that Pedersoli hammer (frizzen) spring anyway. Bought a Dixie US Musket spring Part No. TP0804 for $5.50. This spring is made with an unfinished tit, so that it can be filed to fit a variety of locks. Managed in spite of marginal competence to get the thing installed. It really is a little too large for this lock, and is a very strong spring, much stronger than the Pedersoli I replaced.  Snapped the lock a half dozen times indoors with a slightly used flint, sparked. Took out on the deck & snapped a couple more times. Then, in a light Michigan snowstorm, primed the pan & managed to get ignition five times, flint still sharp. When the weather & I both get better I'll find out for real if this new spring solved the problem, but today's trials at least looked good. I am not much of an expert in making a reluctant flint lock spark, would have replaced the whole lock but suitable replacements (Davis, Caywood) tend to require a lot of metal removal to thin out the bolster & maybe even the main spring.  So . . . does any one know of a better replacement hammer/frizzen spring for the Pedersoli "Lott" lock? Has anyone else had & solved ignition problems with this lock?

northmn:
I have had to work with a few locks.  One had springs so strong that it would literally shatter a good English flint after a couple of shots.  Worked down both the frizzen spring and the mainspring.  They used to sell an old Lott lock I used on a fowler.  Part of its problem was that the frizzen spring was too weak and would not give enough resistance to spark well.  I slit the bottom tit of the frizzen and installed a roller that depressed the spring more.  Made the roller out of a bolt and drilled it close to center as I could.  I also redrilled the position of the tit on the mainspring so taht it was depressed more when cocked.  After I did this the thing was pretty reliable.  I sold the gun and the purchaser really likes the gun.  Getting the balance between springs in a flintlock can be a little tricky.  Ther can be more to it than just replacing a mainspring.  Another thing is that not all flints are made the same or last the same.   Some will seen to last forever and others need constant attention.  Some folks like Rich Pieces flints. 

DP

DP

Longknife:
A problem that I have often encountered with the Itialian made locks is that the frizzen is made of soft steel and then case hardeded (and not always done right). If the face of it is getting gouged and rough then it too soft and is taking the sharp edge off of the flint. I had that problem with an old Lot lock years ago and Half-soled it (added a piece of hard file steel to the frizzen face). It still sparks beautifully. I have done this to many Italian made locks!!!!....Ed

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