Hawken stock

[Topknot]

Hi Everyone, I have a question. I recently aquired a Jim Goodoien .58 cal barrel, 1in 70,72 twist. Its 1 and 1  eighth at the breech end and tapers to 1 inch at the muzzle. I was looking thru the classified section of the forum today and came upon a hawken pre-carved stock from pecatonica for sale . It is inletted for a one inch barrel. How hard would it be to make the 1 and 1 eighth inch barrel work?

                                                                               Thanks in advance,

                                                                                               topknot

[Paddlefoot]

Just my opinion, I think you'd be ahead of the game to start from scratch and get it all right from the get go. I've never done the job you are talking about, but I think I have built my last pre-carve anything. There are just too many problems when you don't build the rifle in the correct order. I'm doing a Lancaster pre-carve and the fore end warped in shipping, not being able to put the barrel in the inlet. It actually straightened out for the most part but getting the barrel inlet into that wood required some "averaging" that got the whole thing from lock forward a bit skewed and the ramrod groove less than perfectly centered. Not by much, but enough to make the build a good bit more worrisome than it need be.

[JoeG]

Its not that hard to do
Pecatonica stocks have a lot of extra wood on them
just be sure to maintain the centerline of you barrel as you inlet

[sz]

If you use any precarved stock the issue you will face is the correct placement of the rod in relationship to the hole that's drilled for it.

If the hole is drilled parallel to the barrel  (as it should be) and the stock is cut for a straight barrel you are going to have to fit the under rib so it is of correct height at the nose cap, and also so it goes into the stock straight.  That means the rib has to be fitted in a reverse taper to that of the barrel.

As an example, if the barrel is .075” larger at the forearm tip than it is at the muzzle the taper per side is ½ that amount. So you would need a rib that tapers from the rod hole to the muzzle about .037” so the rod goes in straight but the barrel is deeper in the rear than it is at the nose cap.

If you were to have a pre-carve made with no rod hole it would be easier to make in my opinion.

You would taper the rib and attach it to the barrel. 
Next install your 2 forward rod pipes.
Then you inlet the barrel and breach plug/tang, and install your under lugs. 
Install your nose cap.
Inlet the underlugs and fit the forarm keys.
Now you can use the rod pipes as a set of drill guides to drill your own hole.

Use a bit that will not drift and make SURE you have the bit parallel to the BORE not to the bottom flat.  The rib MUST be tall enough at the nose cap to be sure it will guide the drill clear of the under lugs.

[Bob Roller]

In 1967,I finished a fairly decent representative type of Hawken rilfe.
That was on Thanksgiving day. Given a choice between making another
Hawken in full detail and rebuilding another Duesenberg Model "J" engine,
I would choose the engine.

Bob Roller

[sz]

I don't know if this picture is detailed enough, but it is of a "Hawken I made few years ago and it has a tapered barrel and reverse tapered rib.  It may help to illustrate the point I was trying to make.  You have to look closely to see the taper, but it's there.
The rod is parallel to the bore even though the barrel is tapered