Author Topic: buffalo horn  (Read 6370 times)

Offline David R. Pennington

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buffalo horn
« on: October 20, 2013, 02:36:11 AM »
How do you keep a buffalo horn from getting "hairy"? I made a powder horn from a buffalo horn a while back. I had it scraped down nice and smooth. I gave it a couple coats of linseed oil but after a season of hunting in the damp WV woods it has started to get rough and hairy, mostly on the back or big end. Any way to prevent this?
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Offline Cory Joe Stewart

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Re: buffalo horn
« Reply #1 on: October 20, 2013, 05:51:19 PM »
I've never run into this.  Maybe someone who has will chime in and we can all learn.

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Offline skillman

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Re: buffalo horn
« Reply #2 on: October 20, 2013, 06:17:05 PM »
Short answer---- No!
I have had horns that I flattened or rounded in lard and they seemed to have less tendency to grow hair. For a time I attributed the hot lard to slowing this process. Unfortunately, this has not always worked for me. I tend to use a good furniture wax  to finish my horns and I thought this might help on Buff as well. I don't think so now.
I look at Buffalo horn as the really "coarse cousin" in the horn family and as such it doesn't seem to take to "refinement" well or reliably. You get what you get. It stinks when you work it too. I have built a bunch of Buff horns because some of the guys out here seem to like and want them.  They are also cheap. I'll probably continue to make them but they are not my favorite.

Steve
« Last Edit: October 20, 2013, 07:55:46 PM by skillman »
Steve Skillman

Offline Habu

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Re: buffalo horn
« Reply #3 on: October 20, 2013, 08:06:01 PM »
I sort of figure I don't have a lifetime to figure these things out, so I try to use a combination of techniques used on surviving original horns and items made from buff horn, what I've been able to glean from the ethnographic literature, and the results of various experiments.   

Start at the beginning, with horn selection.  Fresh is better: as the horn dries out, it begins to scale and crack even more than it was while still in use by the original owner.  Select a horn that will give the desired finished size after all the cracks at the butt (and maybe another 1/2-1") have been cut away.  Don't cut it yet though, as that extra will function to protect the "good" horn while you rough it out. 

Mark out your neck, and make the preliminary cuts for rings etc.  Drill the spout hole.  Begin at the butt, and take off the stuff that is scaling, all the way to the cuts for the neck/rings.  I heat the horn in almost-boiling or even boiling hot water for this, for several minutes.  The water will penetrate the layers, making it easier to separate.  It will also soften the horn.  I use a crooked knife and work from the butt to the cuts made at the neck.  It is more like splitting dry wood than working horn, but eventually all the scale is removed. 

(Note: if I could figure out a safe way to hold the horn while maintaining access to the length of the horn, I'd try a drawknife.  The problem is the need to work from the butt to the tip.  Lacking a safe way to hold the horn, I brace the horn tip against my chest, and pull the crooked knife towards me.  An apron will help by providing a little padding, and a bit of protection for the inevitable slips when the knife hits my chest.) 

The next stage is splitting off the "corners" left when the scale was removed.  This is similar to splitting green wood.  The goal is to have the horn rough-shaped and (fairly) even in thickness, while maintaining a surface consisting of a continuous layer from the butt to the tip. 

The logic behind this is that if the fibers of the horn run continuously from butt to tip, there is less chance of the "fur" raising as you describe.  In the same way, scrapes should run continuously, from the butt to the cuts.  This keeps the same layer on the surface.  Places where the layer is cut through to underlying layers tend to result in more "fuzzing."  It is kind of like making a wooden self-bow from certain woods: if you cut through the grown rings, the wood will separate or split at that point. 

Boiling seems to cause the horn to dry out sooner . . . but on the other hand, there are a few ethnographic descriptions that suggest the horn was boiled.  I've always wondered if the water was heated to just below boiling, or if something was added to the water.

This doesn't explain the horn spoons that have survived.  There are accounts of these spoons/ladles/bowls being used to serve food that was at boiling temps.  I suspect the fats/grease in the food may have been beneficial from the perspective of preserving the horn.  From some experiments, it seems heat pushes the grease/oil in the boiling food into the horn, protecting it from the damage we often see in buffalo horn that was boiled in plain water. 

I really try to avoid sanding buffalo horn.  It just causes too many severed fibers in the horn, each of which seems to try to "fuzz" at some point.  Careful scraper use avoids much of this, and seems to match the finish on some of the best of the native/frontier made horns.  (I suspect many of the fancy buffalo horns, and the St. Louis group of horns, were finished with raw abrasives on oiled leather, after scraping.  This may have been done just enough to remove the scraper marks, or there may have been some finishing techniques used that preserved the horn for longer, or both.  If you look at current pictures of Clark's horn, for example, you'll see the scaling and fuzzing we've come to expect from buffalo horn.)

Once the body of the horn is roughed out and scraped, it is time to trim the butt.  After that, I heat the entire horn in near-boiling water, then dip it several times in equally-hot water that has about 1/4"-1/2" of heated fat on top.  The idea is to use the heat to push the fat into the horn (similar to what seems to have been done to the spoons through use).  Deer and mutton tallow both work well for this, and are easier for me to find than buffalo tallow.  Beef tallow didn't seem to work as well, and vegetable oils didn't work at all.  When you are done, wipe the horn off, inside-and-out, with an old T-shirt or similar. 

From there, fit the butt plug while the horn is still hot.  I usually use pine tar to seal the plug, because it will bond and seal the slightly-oily horn.  I've seen a number of original horns that were sealed with pine tar; it seems to hold up fairly well for at least the first 100 years or so. 

Shape the neck, and ream the spout.  When finished, I like to periodically apply neatsfoot oil to the outside of the horn to keep it from totally drying out.  Linseed oil, etc, seem to promote drying, or at least, they seem to accelerate the development of fuzz.  Using nothing--and not oiling the horn--tend to result in the development of scaling.  Both will happen eventually, particularly if the horn is actually used; UV may play a role in this, but I've not tried to figure out how or why.

You're still going to have problems though--it is just the nature of the material.  You can always resort to covering the horn with a rawhide sheath (which would probably lead to discussion about the best seam to use. . . . )

Offline Habu

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Re: buffalo horn
« Reply #4 on: October 21, 2013, 04:44:59 AM »
These pics (used with permission) sort of illustrate a couple of points I was writing about.  Some of you may have seen them on the Contemporary Makers blog on 6 August, 2013.  I've reduced the size from the original photos to better fit our posting space here, and cropped some areas to define what I mean.  

I really like this horn; aside from being a really nice horn, it is one of the few pressed buffalo horns I'm aware of, and the only one I have such detailed photos of.  



Note the lines of the horn--no raised neck, rings, etc near the spout.  I suspect this horn was cleaned up as I described, using a drawknife or crooked knife to "peel" off the scaled horn.  



In this closeup crop, under the number "1" is a lighter-colored area.  This coloration is what we tend to see where the horn is almost ready to fuzz or separate/scale.  To the right of the number "2" is an area where we can clearly see the maker went through the layers.  

When playing around trying to replicate various aspects of this horn, the only way I was able to get a stable separation like this ("2") was by first "peeling" the rough horn, then flattening, then shaping the broad flats (on the side) with a sharp scraper.  There are some other aspects that lead me to think this is how the horn was shaped, rather than with abrasives.  



Assuming the horn was carried on the right side, this would be the "face" of the horn.  


In this close-up crop, there is a lighter colored line to the right of the number "1".  This line, almost continuous from the butt to the worked area near the spout, seems to be a llayer of the horn exposed by shaping the flats.  


Obviously, a bottom view.  Note that the horn was not entirely flattened, there is still some curvature to the neck--not as much as in a double-twist cow horn, but it is there.  I think this is close to the maximum amount a buffalo horn can be flattened.  I suspect the white inlay at the neck on the back side of the horn may cover up an area that was worked too thin in shaping.  


This is a shot of the area near the butt, on the face side of the horn.  We can see a number of areas where separations are starting, but the horn is still very stable: there are separations, but no fuzzing.  

Also, notice the light line just to the right of the heart?  That is a highlight off the corner.  It isn't a smooth even curve, but retains some of the "bumps" of a natural buffalo horn.  This is another detail that I think supports the idea that the maker tried to work with the natural layers in the horn.  


A closeup crop of the previous shot.  To the right of the number "1" we can see a separation starting.  I think this may have been a high point the maker scraped through when shaping the side flats.  

To the right of "2" we can see more separations starting.  They seem to follow the curve, and while there is separation, there is no scaling.  

Just below "3"--a distance about equal to the height of the number--there is a discontinuity, one that almost looks like smoke in a mild breeze.  This is definitely a point where the maker scraped through a high point, I've had the same thing show up on my experimental horns.  


In this shot of the butt plug, there are a number of scratches running the length of the plug.  These seem to be scraper scratches, I don't see any sign of an abrasive being reversed in direction.  


Here is a shot looking down at the inside of the curve.  The hole near the neck seems to be an attachment point for a threaded knob or eye for the strap.  This would eliminate the need for raised rings to retain the strap.  


In this closeup and lightened crop of the previous picture, the rough area in the center seems to be a spot where the maker was unable to work along the grain lines.  The roughness is some separation, possibly--given the apparent lack of fuzziness or scaling--present before the horn was finished.  

« Last Edit: November 06, 2013, 09:59:38 PM by Habu »

blaksmth

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Re: buffalo horn
« Reply #5 on: November 20, 2013, 07:19:15 AM »
I all ways use a piece of window glass to scrape a horn and a good pair of leather gloves while doing this, I have never shaped the horn but instead I make the plug to fit the shape . after I get it scraped I go over the horn with steel wool 000-0000, then they get a several good  coats of varnish and a light buffing with steel wool or a fine abrasive fiber pad.

 I live in a drier climate but I use them in all sorts of weather and they seem to hold up well for me.

Offline whitebear

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Re: buffalo horn
« Reply #6 on: November 22, 2013, 05:20:46 AM »
I was wondering how a varnish or shellac finish would work.
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Smoketown

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Re: buffalo horn
« Reply #7 on: November 24, 2013, 08:54:21 PM »
Birchwood-Casey Tru-Oil and/or pure carnuba car wax has worked well for me.
(Harley brand in a glass jar. A little goes a long way!)

It's also easy to 'adjust' the amount of gloss on the finished product and, there's NO chipping!

Cheers,
Smoketown

Offline horseman

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Re: buffalo horn
« Reply #8 on: November 25, 2013, 01:46:32 AM »
 Habu, I really enjoyed reading your posts about the buff horns.  Thanks!
 
Bud.

Offline Candle Snuffer

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Re: buffalo horn
« Reply #9 on: November 29, 2013, 01:50:35 AM »
Birchwood-Casey Tru-Oil and/or pure carnuba car wax has worked well for me.
(Harley brand in a glass jar. A little goes a long way!)

It's also easy to 'adjust' the amount of gloss on the finished product and, there's NO chipping!

Cheers,
Smoketown

I too used the Tru-Oil, haven't had any problems with hair growing back.  I scraped (with glass), sand papered, and polished with steel wool quite a bit before going to the tru-oil, and did several coats, polishing in between them.  I don't really care for the buffalo horn as a powder horn, but had to try it at least twice. :)
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