Lube for flintlocks

[Paddlefoot]

OK. I thought this belonged more on the building side, since its sort of nuts and bolts, but here goes. What are folks using for lube on their lock tumblers? I'd be interested in answers for locks that are running steel on steel like They come to us new and any with bronze bushings as some of us repair them. Personally, I've recently been using Kendall non-detergent 30 wt. motor oil mixed 50-50 with STP and a dab of EP Moly grease on the steel on steel parts. I think I would want something lighter on the bronze bushed lockplates. particularly if the bushing was of porous bronze to hold the lube.

[galamb]

Up my way where it gets quite cold I use Lithium grease (comes in a little tube - white stuff - also use it as rail lube for my crossbow) which stays "slippery" and "in place" no matter how cold it gets - I do keep it away from the fly (worry about it not letting it fall properly - the stuff is kinda thick).

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

I use Molybdenum grease.  It's grey, and is difficult to get off of things once it's placed.  Great lube for locks.

[Scout]

I did use RIG grease but I just started using Lucas Oil additive. Pretty thick and very sticky. Everything seems to work just fine. I still use the RIG in the barrel after cleaning.

[Old Bob]

3 in 1 Oil. I prefer 3 in 1 Sewing Machine Oil but ran out. Been using it for 40 years on all my locks and triggers. My bores get a light coat of it as well when I put them up.

[bgf]

First assembly and major teardowns (e.g. annual or so) get Beeman M2M (moly) paste rubbed into metal; the moly will embed itself in or at least cling to the metal for a long time.  Regular cleanings are followed with my generic light machine oil, made with whatever oil I put into my tractor diluted with some ULSD diesel to the right viscosity. 

[jim moore]

Accralube

[Vomitus]

   Amsoil Synthetic on /in my lock.

[William Worth]

Fluid Film.  Or a host of other things in my goops and glops collection...

[Dennis Glazener]

Here is what I have been using for the past several months and I really like it. It seems to last a long time and it only takes a tiny bit.



Available here http://www.neconos.com/details7a.htm

Good stuff,
Dennis

[mjm46@bellsouth.net]

Accralube

If this is the stuff that Chambers sold, and you really like it try to find a new source. Chambers can't get it any more.

[WadePatton]

OK. I thought this belonged more on the building side, since its sort of nuts and bolts, but here goes. What are folks using for lube on their lock tumblers? I'd be interested in answers for locks that are running steel on steel like ...

You might be interested in Pletch's lock lube tests as well.  

http://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=24811.0
  (lock lubrication)

[Hungry Horse]

I have used Permatex Superlube for years. I use the grease in a tube. It is clear, and is actually food grade, so its not toxic. I usually disassemble the lock, and wipe all the internals with a SMALL amount of grease. I then wipe off any extra, leaving just a film. I then assemble the lock, and put a drop, or two, of Break Free chain, and cable, foam on the internal just to cover the spots the grease might have missed.
 If you put a super thin coating of superlube on the internals, and a tiny about of Break Free, it doesn't seem to be affected by the cold as much as other lubes.

                     Hungry Horse

[Bob Roller]

On locks with no half cock position,Permatex#2 is a good lube.
I used it for years on head and water pump gaskets with no leaks.

Bob Roller

[wmrike]

Hmm, I'll have to try the moly.  However, to this point I have been using NAPA's Syn-Glide, a silicone-based grease that won't melt, freeze, gum, sticks like crazy, and its waterproof.  It withstands a season of use, including water baths for cleaning.

[Hungry Horse]

wmrike;

  What you are using is Napa's knock off of Superlube, although I don't know if it is food grade. Remember you really haven't had a mess, until you get a little moly in the mix. I took on a project years ago, finishing a rifle somebody had built up to "in the white" status, and then decided to shoot it for a while. When I got the to point of browning the metal, I began having fits. The most aggressive browning solution I could find wouldn't touch it. The inside of the lock had this kind of silvery look to it, that wouldn't come of with anything. MOLY, was the culprit, I don't remember what finally got rid of it, but it wasn't easy. I had the same issue years later with a target rifle a guy had been shooting moly coated bullets in. Just be aware of the issues.

              Hungry Horse

[Candle Snuffer]

I've used the Birchwood Casey lube for years, but there's some good lube ideas here that I may follow up on.

[Tom Cooper]

I am using Sta-Lube engine assembly lube on my locks, seems to work well and does not migrate.

"The engine assembly lube and anti-seize prevents friction, galling and wear on all types of engine components during assembly, start-up and break-in periods."

[omark]

I have recently started using bicycle chain lube in spray form. Use it in everything that goes bang.     Mark

[Daryl]

Like Taylor, I use a moly grease - Birchwood Casey's in a white tub, for lubing my gun lock innards. I find that even flushing with WD40 after cleaning, does not blast it out of the locks parts for many cleanings. I like it - winter, summer - works perfectly and does not interfere with a lock's fly.

[WadePatton]

I have recently started using bicycle chain lube in spray form. Use it in everything that goes bang.     Mark

There is quite a range of products in this category, from full-synthetic, to paraffin-based "dry" lubes, to the ultimate (for bicycle chains-smells of sulfur like gear oil) Ballers' Lube, NFS.  That stuff is awesome on the chain, but too heavy in my experience for the lockworks.  

I like moly in the form of anti-seize, thinned.  Or dry graphite.

[Vomitus]

  Daryls,that sounds like lithium if it's white.

[Dphariss]

I have been using 0w30 Amsoil on internals and such.
I now use Amsoil Boat trailer wheel bearing grease on spring contacts on old style locks with maybe a touch of 0w30 if its I worry about it being to stiff.
I use both for other things and the 0w30 is from draining oil bottles after oil changes so its free, a little goes a long way and its not going to turn to goo at the temps I hunt in.
I still use G-96 for some brass suppository stuff like firing pins if its really cold and I use some mil-spec stuff on other things I shoot. If it was REALLY cold I would use g-96 on everything.
For a dry lube Dri-Slide goes on wet, work the parts a few times and allow to dry it would be OK for really cold I think too. I generally use a little oil with this stuff though except for very specific things that have nothing to do with FLs.
For protection G-96, the aerosol stuff is all I buy I know they sell others.
Dan

[Daryl]

LB - the container, ie: tub is white - the grease is moly for sure - almost black, but not quite jet black- kind-of a slate-like tinge to it.

I was wrong about the make - it is labeled  "Lyman Super Moly Bore Cream"

[bob in the woods]

Bear oil is what I use. Slick as all get out.