vent replacement

[smylee grouch]

I need to replace a 3/8" white lightning liner as the vent is getting way too large and the groups are getting wild. What sized easy out and drill is the recomended size for this job.

[David R. Pennington]

I would try soaking it with penetrating oil first and then try drilling with a left hand bit a little larger than the hole. If you are lucky you won't need the easy out. Most industrial supply houses stock left hand drills. I need to do the same on my .50. The hole is pretty big and my groups are getting bigger too.

[Pete G.]

How much shooting does it take for this to happen? I was under the impression that a W/L liner was supposed to keep this from being an issue; that's why we put up with that ugly shiny spot around the vent.

[smallpatch]

Pete,
It takes a lot . No one can say how much for sure, because the installer determines the wall thickness when installing.
No liner can make the erosion problem go away. It can make it take longer, but more importantly, easier to repair.
If you had a drilled touchhole, you'd be toast, or be adding a liner. Now, you can screw one out, and screw a new one in. Good as new.

[smylee grouch]

Pete G- this rifle has been shot quite abit and vent picked almost every shot with a hard steel vent pic, this is not good for vent life but great for sure fire ignition IMHO. Not disapointed with the liner at all and recomend it to anyone whanting a liner.

[T*O*F]

Don't use an Easy Out.  When you crank them in, they expand and force the threads tighter when dealing with something this thin.  It is not the threads that will be the problem anyway.  You must overcome the friction and corrosion in the countersunk part.  Drill your hole and drive the appropriate size Torx socket into the hole instead of the EZ Out.  Then carefully work it back and forth until the vent loosens.  You can't do that with an EZ Out.  DO NOT just try to take it out all at once....you will strip the Torx or EZ Out.  Soaking and heat will aid removal.

[Mark Elliott]

To ease future removal,  I coat my breech pins and vent liners with white lithium grease before installation.   Some folks use anti-seize.

[wet willy]

FWIW, since these come in 1/4, 5/16, and 3/8 diameters. You may want to use the smallest (1/4") to start with on your next build, then it can be drilled out to the next larger size.  I agree an EZ Out, driven in, may only expand the liner, making extraction even more difficult. D/T for a Torx, soak, back out, as suggested here, makes a good solution.

You could consider a custom-made liner in 7/16". There may be some 'smiths on this Forum who can make one for you. Should be a straight forward job to turn, drill, and thread a cylinder. Shaping the cone might be tricky. Maybe Chambers would make a custom liner in this size, as I suspect you are not the first person to have this problem. (Don't expect the price to be the same as the standard sizes!)

Drilling the old liner out should be easy as the drill bit will want to center on the flash-hole, making the new hole concentric with the old.

[smylee grouch]

Thanks for the tip T O F, I think that is what I will use. The existing liner was instaled with never seeze on threads so hope that aids in its removal.

[David R. Pennington]

My .50 cal. rifle is about 10 years old. This has been my primary rifle all this time, which means 1 or 2 matches each month plus practice sessions and hunting (everything from squirrel to deer). I don't know how many shots that translates to, but the original white lightening liner is just now needing replaced.
My recent builds have internal coned touch holes using Mr. Snyder's little tool. I like not having the shiny liner, but I know eventually I will have to line them.

[Ted Kramer]

Most times you can get them to turn out by carefully tapping them with a small hammer and a graver near the outer edge in a counter-clockwise direction. Stay in a bit from the edge and don't get carried away with the hammer, usually works for me. If they refuse to turn this way, I use a small easyout.
Ted K

[Mark Elliott]

I just had a thought.   Why not make a little pin spanner to remove these.   You just need a piece of steel about .5"x.125".x6".   You drill a couple of small holes, say 1/16 in one end of the steel about .25" apart or a little less for a .25" liner.   You drive a couple of short, like .25", pieces of 1/16" music wire in the holes.   Then you just have to drill matching holes in the liner and you have a no slip way to remove the liner as long as you don't exceed the shear strength of the music wire.   It would only take minutes to make and could be used over and over again. 

[kutter]

Place a flat punch on the face of the liner. The punch must be smaller in dia than the face of the liner as you want to avoid hitting the thin flange of the liner.
A couple of waps will loosen the liner as the thin flange and it's seat in the bbl (which is the only thing holding it tight) will flex a tiny bit leaving the liner loose.
Same idea as hitting a tight screw with the screw driver in place and then you can tighten it an extra 1/4 turn or so. You're just doing the opposite and loosening it.

Once you've given it the hammer and punch routine, take a piece of 1/8" drill rod tapered on 4 sides and drive it into the flash hole and turn the old liner out. Or you can use a small chisel/graver and hammer to rotate it out as already mentioned.

[smylee grouch]

That is an interesting concept Mark. I might have to give that some thought. This might work and not screw up the other options if it doesnt. I have also used the engraving tool to remove broken screws.