Muzzle Cap Installation

[Okefinokee Outlaw]

I'm close to almost finished with my first Chambers kit, and for the most part it's turned out well.  Regarding the muzzle cap, some builders recommend epoxy in addition to the copper rivet, and some feel the rivet by itself is sufficient.  Any suggestions?  Was adhesive of any kind used on some of the originals?  Thanks folks/

[bob in the woods]

I have only ever used a rivet, and  so far have not had any issues. My rifles are used in the field  in all kinds of weather, for what that is worth.  I try and do a decent job of fitting the cap so that it is supported. I can't help re the historical use of an adhesive.

[mjm46@bellsouth.net]

I've installed nose caps only with epoxy.
I've installed nose caps only with rivets.
I've installed nose caps with both epoxy and rivets. My preference.

I think to ease application of the rivets a little epoxy between the wood and the cap will stabilize the cap before you install the rivets. Allow the epoxy to set up well with the barrel in place, then remove the barrel and clean up any squeeze out. If you were frugal there will be very little or none. A little movement of the cap while installing the rivets can cause positioning problems. Keeping epoxy to minimum will not show and after you have the rivet/rivets installed, who can tell, it ain't coming off. If you're worrying about "historical correctness" I think it's much less of a crime than cast steel locks or worse glass bedding barrels, and those don't seem to bother anyone. Not denigrating any of these things, this is the 21 century.

There are a lot of ways to build these things, you have to find what works best for you. This works for me.

[E.vonAschwege]

I've no idea if adhesive was used on original longrifles - I do know that an adhesive was used for horn nose caps on some percussion English shotguns I've owned from the 1830s to the 1850s.  For a longrifle, if you fit the muzzlecap well and don't remove too much supporting wood underneath, then a rivet will be plenty strong to hold the cap in place - afterall, it's not having anything torque on it.  Some early Berks county guns had muzzlecaps that screwed into a dovetailed plate set underneath the muzzle, IIRC - that's another can of worms altogether though.  Best,

-Eric

[Jim Kibler]

I've used anywhere from one to four rivets and all of these choices are historically correct and based off original work.  Anymore, I prefer at least two rivets going into the 45 degree flats of the barrel channel.  Slightly below center on the flats is what I shoot for.  In my experience this keeps things held in place a little better.  I sometimes use epoxy, but sometimes don't .  When drilling for the rivets I like to use a draw bore technique where the holes in the metal and wood are offset just a touch so as the rivet is clinched in place the cap is drawn towards the wood shoulder.

[Acer Saccharum]

I've used epoxy and rivets for most caps.

What about pitch as an adhesive under the cap? Mixture of asphaltum and rosin. Gap filling and flexible over a long life.

[Cory Joe Stewart]

I just finished a Chambers Kit and I used epoxy and a rivet.  The epoxy works well for me because it helps with handling the piece while installing the rivet.  It is not there for extra protection after the rivet is in place.  I am certain the rivet is enough, its just getting it in place.

Coryjoe

[Okefinokee Outlaw]

I'm liking the epoxy and draw bore technique.  Any suggestions on where I might procure extra copper rivets similar to what are in the Chambers kits?

[axelp]

I bet Chambers would send you some extra --

[E.vonAschwege]

I'm liking the epoxy and draw bore technique.  Any suggestions on where I might procure extra copper rivets similar to what are in the Chambers kits?

I'm sure Jim could send you a few more - but you can also make them out of heavy gauge copper wire or copper nails as well. 
-Eric

[T*O*F]

I've used epoxy and rivets for most caps.

Yeah, the epoxy is to hold the thin web of wood together when one splits it whilst peening the rivet. 

What about pitch as an adhesive under the cap? Mixture of asphaltum and rosin. Gap filling and flexible over a long life.

I believe it was John Bivins who recommended using Permatex Form-a-Gasket for the same reason.  Much easier to obtain.

Personally, I use heavy gauge copper wire and peen it into very small countersinks in the cap and stock.  However, you can find copper rivets at most hardware stores.

[David Rase]

If the fit is nice and tidy you can get away with only rivit(s).  If the fit is somewhat sloppy, I would suggest an adhesive to help fill your gaps.  Another alternative that might be historically correct would be hot hide glue.  The beauty of hide glue would be that if you needed to remove said nose cap a wee bit of heat and off it comes. 
Even a loose muzzle cap with only rivit(s) should tighten up when the barrel is installed.
David   

[wpalongrifle]

If your making the cap or buying one? The cast ones have a tendency to be thicker!! I use a machine screw from inside and tap muzzle cap. Leaving as much wood is key to strength!!!!
When I make on from sheet brass, usually very thin. I like to use Micro-bed compound and a rivit.
One thing I like to do if using any type of adhesive is to rough up inside surface. When glueing I let set overnight before installing rivit or screw!!! More support and less mess trying to preen over and movement that will result in misalignment!!!!

[galamb]

I prefer to epoxy the nose cap. Figure it's one of the "most likely to get bumped/banged" parts of the rifle.

I use un-thinned marine epoxy and let the wood soak up all it will take (also paint the barrel channel with it as well - water proof and strengthens the web) and then install the nose cap - still put in a copper rivet just for "the look".

Figure if nothing else I have made the nose twice as strong as it was.

[Okefinokee Outlaw]

Cast muzzle cap.  But it's only about .0625 thick.

[Long Ears]

Tandy's sells the copper rivits like Jim supplies. Bob

[frogwalking]

The rivet in a Chamber's kit is a copper roofing nail.

[Jim Kibler]

Another option is to use brass as a rivet material on a brass cap.  I like to just cut a sliver of sheet then round it up, and form a bit of a head.  After finishing, the rivets completely disappear.  There were of course different practices and materials used in different time periods and locations. 

Another tip is that if a rivet is made by forming a head, often there ends up being a slight offset to it.  That is the head isn't completely concentric and the shaft can be slightly irregular.  This can be used to your advantage as well to help draw the cap towards the wood.  Like I previously mentioned, I don't just rely on this, but also offset the holes a touch to draw things in place.

[Acer Saccharum]

I like to just cut a sliver of sheet then round it up, and form a bit of a head.

Jim, does this mean you roll the sheet up into a cylinder to form the rivet body?

[Jim Kibler]

No, I just cut a strip of brass that is roughly square in cross section and  file it round.  Usually around 1/16" in diameter.  Then peen a head on it which bears on the wood in the barrel channel.

[Acer Saccharum]

Oh, ah, uh, DOH! I get it, thank you!

[Mark Elliott]

I have only used rivets.  I have never had a problem.   

[Acer Saccharum]

I have never had a problem.   

I frequently have problems. I usually find a way out. But not always. 

[Pete G.]

Almost any hardware store will have cut copper tacks. Practically a lifetime supply for a couple of bucks.

[sweed]

I have never had a problem.   

I frequently have problems. I usually find a way out. But not always. 

When I have a problem I can't find a way out of,   I just go look in the mirror. Waalaa.  The source!! 
Now if I can just find the solution! 

sweed