Preferred Browning Solution

[Okefinokee Outlaw]

I'm in the home stretch with my Chambers Early Lancaster, and it's time to brown the barrel.  I've heard good things about both Laurel Mountain Forge and Wahkon Bay cold browning solutions.  Any particular pros or cons about either?  Are they pretty much the same?  Thanks.

[flehto]

I've used both and prefer the LMF. After drawfiling the bbl, a light rub w/ 220 grit paper , a warm wash w/ Dawn and a complete dry , it's ready for browning. I don't wear gloves  or take any handling prcautions when browning w/ LMF ...a big plus.  

To achieve a nicely colored brown takes me 36 hrs and the bbl has an etched matte finish. Neutralize w/ household ammonia to "kill" the after rust, rinse w/ warm water, dry and I apply Oxyoke 1000 lightly rubbed in w/ 0000 steel wool. A good wipe and another coat of Oxyoke 1000 and she's ready to go.

I use a "sweatbox" w/ hot wet towels underneath the bbl to facilitate the browning.......Good luck w/ the Chambers Early Lancaster.....have built 3 and they all were nice LRs......Fred

[gumboman]

Have used both. I find LMF is easier to use and takes less time. The Wahkon Bay produces a deeper and much more durable finish. My Tennessee Mountain Rifle I built in 1986 has seen a lot of use both at the range and in the deer woods and the browned finish from Wahkon Bay looks great and has taken on a rich smooth brown patina. My underhammer finished last year with LMF already has spots of the brown wearing off. Seems like any little contact with a hard surface removes the LMF brown. Just my experience. Others may differ.

[Swampwalker]

I have found LMF to be more reactive than Wahkton, giving a faster rust/buildup.  I have not seen a difference in wear between the two provided the depth of the brown is the same.  The problem is in stopping the reaction.  After two throurough washes with detergent and lots of water, I'm still getting a little after rust with ithe LMF on my most recent job (completed last Saturday).

[PPatch]

LMF hands down. It will do an excellent browning.

dp

[flehto]

LMF can be difficult to neutralize and baking soda didn't do the job. for me, anyways. Household or janitorial ammonia really "kills" the after rust......Fred 

[Hungry Horse]

Of the two products mentioned I would prefer LMF. But, I have discovered another product that works better, and is cheaper. A friend wanted to build his first muzzleloader. Instead of taking a traditional path, with a good grade kit, he decided he wanted to build a gun from purchased parts, and a carve it from a stock blank. I know this sounds like a formula for disaster, but being successful metal fabricator, and artist, he pulled it off beautifully. When it came to the metal finish, I prescribed several different products, all of which he tested, and decided against. He used an blackening chemical that he had in his shop that when used like other browning agents put down a reddish brown finish with an incredibly fine grain. So I would check out the local fabricator and see what he has. I don't recall the brand name of this product, but am sure there are several manufacturers that make a similar product. The best part is a pint of this stuff costs about the same as a small bottle of everybody else's product.

               Hungry Horse

[B Shipman]

Wahkon Bay. Not close. No plating problems, no damp box needed. no nothing. Simple, fast , brainless, and perfect. LMF stains however and LMF Permalyn are the best. No contest. Nothing close.

[Lucky R A]

   Having done well over 200 guns that were browned, I use nothing else than Wahkon Bay browning.  LMF browning is rife with problems that can cause you lots of grief.  As Bill said above Wahkon Bay is simple, easy to use, gives good results.  I have never had a problem.

Ron

[eddillon]

I prefer the LMF.  I dilute with some distilled water for a smoother more reflective final finish.  Takes a couple more applications but I like the result-especially if I am going for a blue finish.
Ed

[Dr. Tim-Boone]

I haven't used LMF Or WB  But I have found Homer Danglers Browning/rust Blue to work very well.

[snapper]

WB is the only one I use.  No reason to switch.  William Young the guy who started the company has become a friend of mine over the years.

Fleener

[Robby]

Homer Dangler, can't miss!
Robby

[smallpatch]

So, the final consensus ........ They both work, and have loyal followers. We have another vote for Dangler, and a product the user doesn't know the name of.....

My advice.... It's your first gun??  Just try one. After you've built number 12, you can help answer the same question for another beginner!!!!!!!
By the way, I've used all three....... I'll use which ever one I can get in my hot little hands. If you apply them right.....they all work well.

[Long Ears]

X2 on Homer Dangler. Bob