Author Topic: Full Stock Hawken Build (Read 31146 times)

sean30ber · « **on:** March 05, 2014, 09:59:31 PM »

I spend so much time on the Muzzleloading Forum I forget to come over here. I know a lot of you guys are over there. I'm in the middle of my third gun build and would like any opinion from the Hawken Gurus. Suggestions, issues comments, pics of original. Anything would help as I complete this rifle. Instead of posting the whole thing here, as its long and picture heavy, Ill put a link and if you have time to look it over I would appreciate it. I started with a Don Stith parts set, but went conversion drum instead of flint. Thanks again Sean

http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/285820/tp/1/

Keb · « **Reply #1 on:** March 06, 2014, 12:05:07 AM »

You gotta be a member to see that page :/

sean30ber · « **Reply #2 on:** March 06, 2014, 03:19:29 AM »

Heres where I am, Don Stith parts set. Very nice 3rd rifle build for me.

Started with a cracked stock on arrival

Working on parts while waiting for a new stock

Don hooked me up with a new stock, NICE

Inletting Butt plate and Toe

Getting Tang inlet. First long tang for me.

Totally messed up the lock plate. Had to order a new one. Dont file by eyeballing things. I did this early on in the build.

I went with the drum as I can switch to flint using the drop in Late English Flint Lock if I ever so decide. I know they are not common but the Smithsonian Hawken is a Drum conversion so it was done.

D. Taylor Sapergia · « **Reply #3 on:** March 06, 2014, 04:46:56 AM »

Your work so far looks just fine, with one exception, if I may. The lock plate is supposed to support the drum - gives it a base to absorb the energy of the hammer striking the nipple. If it were mine, I'd file the drum inlet into a rectangle and inlet (silversolder or weld) a block of steel into the recess, and recut the drum notch. You could even get creative and make the filler to resemble a filed over pan from a flintlock, and \then cut the 1/2" notch for the drum.

Your metal to wood inlets look very good. It's going to be a nice rifle.

I wonder what went sideways with the first piece of wood? Internal stresses releasing themselves after spindle carving??

sean30ber · « **Reply #4 on:** March 06, 2014, 05:08:46 AM »

Yes sir. I pulled a dummy and eyeballed it, then filed. Thinking I would have to take more off. Well, that didn't work. Ordered a new plate. I'll fix this one at a later date.

Thanks for the comment, means a lot. I've seen your work.

jamesthomas · « **Reply #5 on:** March 06, 2014, 06:22:16 AM »

That's some good work! the butt plate fit is Perfect! "thumbs up". What is the perticulars (sp) of the barrel who made it etc?.

sean30ber · « **Reply #6 on:** March 06, 2014, 06:50:45 AM »

It's a DeHaas 36 inch. .54, 1 inch tapered to 7/8. I got to tell ya I pushed a patched round ball through it and I've never felt such a smooth consistent bore. I patched it tight and it went through like butter and didn't cut the patch at all. Can't wait to fire it.

Dphariss · « **Reply #7 on:** March 06, 2014, 08:02:42 AM »

I would point out that the Smithsonian rifle is thought to date to the late 1840s or maybe 1850s. So while it was originally built as a FL it was built after Jake's death. The conversion is not representative of the Hawken Shop work so while it was "done", it was done sloppily being what I (and W. Greener) would call a "blacksmith" conversion.

Dan

alyce-james · « **Reply #8 on:** March 06, 2014, 05:44:53 PM »

Good morning Sean; Sir, " gun number 3 " Very nice work. Inletting of parts shows well planned work and patients. Thanks for sharing. Have a great day. AJ.

mountainman70 · « **Reply #9 on:** March 07, 2014, 01:27:39 AM »

Hey Sean,nice job on the buttplate,and overall so far.My first build in 2010 reentering the hobby was this same rifle,only in flint,58 straight.Learned heap o lessons along the way.Gun came out good,next 8 have gotten better.This is addictive.Enjoy the ride.Dave

sean30ber · « **Reply #10 on:** March 07, 2014, 09:33:14 AM »

Thanks for the responses guys. I know it's not an historical replica but I'm happy so far.

sean30ber · « **Reply #11 on:** March 10, 2014, 10:08:12 PM »

After some issues with a broken tap and some help from Dave Person in how to remove it Ive got the lock in and finished. Finishing the trigger tonight and then Wedge keys

blaksmth · « **Reply #12 on:** March 11, 2014, 07:46:22 AM »

Why Did you use Two lock bolts

??

sean30ber · « **Reply #13 on:** March 11, 2014, 10:52:07 PM »

Its a conversion, I used the L&R 300 cap lock and have the 900D late English flintlock that is a drop in fit with the pan in the correct position for the liner that screws in the drum hole. I set both locks up at the beginning and all I have to do is switch out if, and when, I decide to go back to flint without ever messing up the finish later. I know its not correct but I don't have to build two guns. Its an idea I got from James Turpin, watching his gun building videos.

tpr-tru · « **Reply #14 on:** March 12, 2014, 03:10:52 AM »

Sean, what thread is your drum and touch hole liner? Thanks

sean30ber · « **Reply #15 on:** March 12, 2014, 05:12:59 AM »

5/16-24

sean30ber · « **Reply #16 on:** March 16, 2014, 05:13:32 AM »

Been sick for a few days and just getting back in the saddle. had about 6 hours today and a bit last night.

sean30ber · « **Reply #17 on:** March 16, 2014, 07:47:08 AM »

Old Ford2 · « **Reply #18 on:** March 16, 2014, 04:30:10 PM »

Nice work!
You inletting is spot on. Broken tap, eh?? No tapping fluid? Been there, use lard if nothing else.
One serious critique.......there has to be something real wrong with such clean and orderly work bench.
Please show us more of the gun....not the bench.....the wife might see the pictures.
Fred

Clark Badgett · « **Reply #19 on:** March 16, 2014, 08:19:26 PM »

I'm with OldFord on this one. Your bench is making me feel guilty about being a slacker. What type of dovetail saw is that? And I love your M14 sticker.

sean30ber · « **Reply #20 on:** March 17, 2014, 05:33:42 AM »

Saw is a Craftsman. Cheap and the best most used craft saw I have. Stupid thing. Thanks for the comments. Question for builders, I put the drum together using a Drum jig and the head of the cock is setting just a tad to far forward. Is it ok to heat the cock neck up red hot and bend the chin back to a more eye pleasing alignment.

D. Taylor Sapergia · « **Reply #21 on:** March 17, 2014, 05:56:56 AM »

Your photo is not exactly a close-up shot, but from what I can see, the hammer cup is centred over the nipple. It may be that the inside of the cup, the hammer face itself, is striking the rear edge of the nipple. That is not good.

I made a cutter from a drill bit that has a flat end and a very slight taper, to re-cut this face, so that the hammer strikes square onto the nipple. I clamp the hammer in the drill press vise, with the spur supported on the table, at an attitude so that I mill away a little of the cup's base and thus change that angle just slightly. I'll see if I can find a photo of this process.

Ain't gun building fun?

This picture is not of the actual drilling, but it shows the hammer having been remedied. Remember the drill bit is ground to cut a gentle taper so that the thinnest part is at the mouth, and it gets thicker as the hole deepens.

sean30ber · « **Reply #22 on:** March 17, 2014, 07:07:52 PM »

Gents on the MLForum are trying to help with this but im stumped. If I cock the lock, set the trigger and fire the front, it hangs up on the half cock setting and stops. If I just fire the front trigger without setting the rear its fine. It appears that the fly is in correctly but I switched it just to check and it locks up either way. The lock seems to work fine with it out of the gun. I have no experience with issues from locks as I always put them back together correctly. I blacked everything to see if there was any wood to metal contact that might be taking place in the inlet and there is none. Im stumped. Any suggestions?

Here is how its put together.

Bob Roller · « **Reply #23 on:** March 17, 2014, 07:29:21 PM »

From the looks of the fly and its poor fit to the pin it's on,I'd say
the fly is actually camming sideways toward the bridle and allowing
the sear to drop into half cock.The front trigger only being used is
like any other single trigger and an involuntary reflex will create
enough over travel to let the sear clear the half cock position.
Another possibility is that the fly is staying back when the hammer is drawn to full cock.
Not likely but possible. Also see if there is excess tension from the sear spring.

Bob Roller

sean30ber · « **Reply #24 on:** March 17, 2014, 07:54:27 PM »

Sorry for the bad pics, Camera is not the best. Is this what your talking about.

AT REST

HALF COCK

FULL COCK

LOCKED UP AT HALF COCK ON RELEASE

Ive done nothing to the lock except take it apart and put it together. No fitting, no filing. This is factory.

News:

Author Topic: Full Stock Hawken Build (Read 31146 times)

sean30ber

sean30ber

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jamesthomas

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blaksmth

sean30ber

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