Shoulder Plane

[Scott Semmel]

Being almost skill free I always fret over getting the forearm halfway down the side flats in what appears to be a straight line. Last attempt I used a cheapo shoulder plane and it seemed to reduce my anxiety level considerably and gave decent results. I picked up a Record 077 at Dixon's for $20 and am going to hide the evidence of ever owning the cheapo made in a bad place plane. Do other folks use Shouler planes or is it my high level of klutzdom that makes it seem like a good Idea?

[Benedict]

Mark Silver's video on stock shaping shows him using all kinds of hand planes, including shoulder planes, to shape a stock.  It is a great video and helped me understand better how to use then on gun stocks.  Even though I have a fair amount of experience and skill with hand planes, I felt I learned a lot.

Bruce

[keweenaw]

I use Clifton shoulder planes all the time.  I wouldn't be without the small one.  It's perfect for working on forestocks, cutting under the cheek piece, etc.  The throat is so small that you can cut either way without chipping and it doesn't clog for some reason I can't imagine but truly appreciate.  Holds an edge like nobody's business. 

Tom

[Ron Scott]

Hi Scott,  If you like tools that are as pleasing to look at as they are to use. Consider getting one of the HNT Gordon shoulder Planes. They are made in Australia of exotic hardwoods and brasss. They are high angle planes that allow you to cut tough figured wood very well. The mouth is small for a fine cut. The blade position can be reversed to use it for scraping. I own a 1 inch and a 1 1/4 inch. They are very useful for working the underside of the cheek piece  as well as other locations.  They look fantastic sitting on your bench and will make you the envy of your friends. I`m temped to put a leash on mine or at least keep drool bibs around for visitors. Finaly, they arrive perfectly sharpened.  You can find them directly on the Web. There is a retailer in San Diego who stocks them as well. Can`t remember the name but could track it down if anyone is interested.

[Acer Saccharum]

Fine woodworking:

http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/ToolGuide/ToolGuideProduct.aspx?id=5899

[keweenaw]

The Clifton I like and use is the little 400.  It's only 3/8"wide so you can hold it in the palm of your hand and get great control.  Also very expensive but worth every penny.  I cut forestock moldings and lower buttstock moldings by cutting a line and then relieving along the line with the plane.

http://www.thebestthings.com/newtools/clifton.htm

Tom

[Acer Saccharum]

I am intrigued by these things, have been a chiseler and rasper up to this point. the other day I used a plane on my forestock, and my eyebrows lifted quite a bit.

So, the next logical step was to call my favorite hardware store to see if they have any rabbeting/shoulder planes, old ones, on hand. Well, of course they do, and seeing how it's my birthday and all.........

[Benedict]

Acer, I strongly recommend Mark Silver's video.  It is a real eye opener.

Bruce

[Tony Clark]

I am intrigued by these things, have been a chiseler and rasper up to this point. the other day I used a plane on my forestock, and my eyebrows lifted quite a bit.

Oh boy, You should get a scrub plane and try it for the initial stages of shaping a square profiled blank. I bet you'll be running around the shop yelling yahoo. I got in the habit of taking stocks down in a geometric manner when I began gunbuilding (4 then 8 then 16 then round or there abouts) and there is nothing like it for getting those lines flowing right from the get go.
I've never seen Mark Silvers video but he certainly has it all down pat.
Personally I like old tools and have good luck finding that kind of stuff on ebay. Course you have to compete with the collectors but perseverance pays.
Another good exercise is to make your own simple wooden planes. One can find the real good old steel blades from scrapped out planes for next to nothing. Not to mention they make great scrapers. Regards, TC

[Scott Semmel]

Hard for me to tell which part of my sickness is worse, the need another gun or the need another tool part.
I have grown dependent on screw adjusters on spokeshaves and block planes, and it was one of the aspects of the Record 077 that made it attractive (that and the fact that it wasn't a piece of junk like my far east plane). My experiences at setting blades with wedges etc have proven vexing. Now that this thread has driven me to the point where I'm sure I need a small shoulder plane, Lie Nelson has a 5/8 wide shoulder plane with screw adjustment the other small shoulder planes are all wedge adjusted. Is 5/8th too big for the stock work you folks do with small shoulder planes? Or is their some way for the klutzes of the world to learn how to adjust with wedges.

[Tony Clark]

My experiences at setting blades with wedges etc have proven vexing. Or is their some way for the klutzes of the world to learn how to adjust with wedges.

Well... if your asking for my advice I would take some of your 'tool' money or whatever and get yourself a book called The Handplane Book by Garret Hack. Absolutely a great book and everything you ever wanted to know about handplanes both old and new. And it clearly explains how to use & adjust all types of planes. Do you use a wooden hammer to adjust the planes w/wedges that is how its done. You tap the end of the plane with a hammer, if you look at any old used plane it will show the marks where someone was hammering(tapping) on it to adjust the blade.......regards, TC

[Benedict]

I am intrigued by these things, have been a chiseler and rasper up to this point. the other day I used a plane on my forestock, and my eyebrows lifted quite a bit.

Oh boy, You should get a scrub plane and try it for the initial stages of shaping a square profiled blank. I bet you'll be running around the shop yelling yahoo. I got in the habit of taking stocks down in a geometric manner when I began gunbuilding (4 then 8 then 16 then round or there abouts) and there is nothing like it for getting those lines flowing right from the get go.
I've never seen Mark Silvers video but he certainly has it all down pat.
Personally I like old tools and have good luck finding that kind of stuff on ebay. Course you have to compete with the collectors but perseverance pays.
Another good exercise is to make your own simple wooden planes. One can find the real good old steel blades from scrapped out planes for next to nothing. Not to mention they make great scrapers. Regards, TC

I still use the "geometric" method of gun building as I do not shape stocks often enough to develope Mark's touch but even there planes are a great help.  I use both screw adjusted and wedge planes.  Some I made but most I bought.  My recommendation is to by the best although with adjustment most planes will work.  Most of mine are Lie-Nielsen but I have a bunch of Records and others.  There is nothing like using one and getting a good cut.  Which can be done even on highly curled maple.

Bruce

[Acer Saccharum]

Got a scrub plane, and got some nice action with it. But the shoulder plane is intriguing because it can get right up to the cheekpiece.

What about the bullnose planes? Are they handy at all?

[Jim Filipski]

I have always used my little finish pane to bring down the sides ( I believe it is a millers falls 6" with adjustable throat. I have the bade razor sharp (It shaves arm hair) and have it set to take off the tiniest cut it can. it is great! I  also use it to bring down the sides of the forestocks (using a little deeper cut) & only on very curly maple will it dig a little...then I go for the medium file or 50 rasp.
The one caution I give is to make sure the fore end is stabilized for the full length ( support underneath) otherwise you can get a wavy cut. You know it is working well when you draw a nice full length wood curl. Check as you go with a straight edge & I almost always go a little lower then the "1/2 the depth" rule ( gives a slimmer look)

 Oh yeah I use it at an angle to the stock I never run it straight down the "Pike" until I'm close to final depth on both sides of the barrel channel. If I need to work back up to the side panel I have a little bull nose plane

[Acer Saccharum]

I just have the bug to buy a plane now. Thanks a lot, guys.

All you gotta say around here is "hey, this tools works great for blah blah blah" and we all go running off to the store to get one.

Sad thing is, it's true.
Acer

[Curt Larsen]

Yikes Acer, I just looked at the calendar by chance and I see it's your birthday.  Happy Birthday!!!  Go right out and buy that shoulder plane that Fine Woodworking reviewed.