Author Topic: acraglass mixture  (Read 14791 times)

Offline bama

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Re: acraglass mixture
« Reply #25 on: March 31, 2014, 08:59:03 PM »
Hey Gus

Thanks for that fine info on Acra Glass and Micro Bed. Always helps to get info from someone that has a lot of experiance with a product that is used in our part of the gun building trade.

I used acra glass for many years and it is a good product but once I found Micro Bed I have never went back. To me it is 10 times easier to use, no mixing measurer's to mess with and no dye to blend in. From what I remember, because it has been awhile, the color of Micro Bed is not that much different than the Acra Glass with the dye mixed in, so I am not sure I understand the statement "sticks out like a sore thumb", but hey to each his own.

Now I will agree that I use Micro Bed very little in my building, mainly for repairing a crack in the stock or for mending busted up stocks in my restoration work and the occasional complete barrel bed for the target shooters that I build for. I probably go through a couple of pair of tubes a year.
 
I sounds like you use Acra Glass a lot and in a much larger volume so maybe it is more ecconomical for you to use Acra Glass. So I hope I did not offend you when I said to throw the Acra Glass away. If I did it was not intended. I was just trying to let the folks on the board that there is an alternitive to Acra Glass.

Oh, I almost forgot the release agent that I use is "Johnsons Paste Wax", the type used to wax wood floors, I have never had it fail.

Thanks again

Jim
« Last Edit: March 31, 2014, 09:00:22 PM by bama »
Jim Parker

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Re: acraglass mixture
« Reply #26 on: April 01, 2014, 04:00:50 AM »
Hey Jim,

Heck no I didn’t take offense when you suggested throwing the Accraglas away, so don’t let that trouble you at all.  You are definitely right that it is much easier to squeeze out equal amounts of Micro Bed to get the volume/ratio correct on mixing vs Accraglas.  I just wanted to make the point that Micro Bed is too dark for some lighter to medium colored stocks, so that it sticks out. 

As to coloring Accraglas with the dye.  Yes, if one squeezes out most of the dye even from one of the tiny packets mentioned above, it will come out as dark as Micro Bed.  The secret to getting a lighter color is to use a tiny amount like on the end of a tooth pick or the way I do it on the end of a small Jeweler’s Screw Driver.  Just the tiniest smidgeon will color even a small batch to look like maple that is not very dark.  Mix that thoroughly into the compound and then add tiny amounts like that at a time to get it as dark as you want.  If one wants it as dark as Micro Bed, then it is easy to put that much dye in, but one can get much lighter shades with Accraglas when using tiny amounts of dye. 

Most of the time I dye Accraglas to match the wood is for filling in holes in walnut stocks, though one time I used it on my old 1970’s vintage Pedersoli Brown Bess Carbine after I shattered the wrist area.  Not sure if they used English/European Walnut on that stock or something else, but it was very light in color.  Even though I had most of the pieces that came off, there were a few small voids.  Since British Brown Besses were not normally stained darker, I wanted to keep the real light color and the only darkening then came from the oil used on it.  Using the tiniest amount of Accraglas dye allowed me to match the wood color so well, even I had a hard time seeing where the voids were filled before I added the oil finish. 

As you know, walnut can range from a very light almost off white color to a fairly dark milk chocolate color.  If you add tiny amounts a time and “sneak up” on the color you want, it is possible to get a very close match to the color of the stock throughout most of the color range. 

BTW, it was Johnson’s Paste Wax in the Yellow Can I wound up having to use as Mold Release when we ran out of Ram 225 and I had to do two NM M14’s FAST to take to the NRA Convention years ago.  At the last minute, our Colonel decided he wanted to NM M14’s that we could take apart and show people how we glass bedded them and how we cleaned them up, since he got so many requests for that and even from top NRA folks.  He also ordered the bedding and clean up be perfect, so it would not embarrass us.   That Paste Wax released one action perfectly, but failed miserably on the second and cracked the stock badly.  On both rifles, I was EXTREMELY careful to ensure the metal surfaces had been properly coated with it, yet on the second stock it was a disaster.  Fortunately as I was routing out another stock to replace it, we got new Ram Mold Release 225 in that afternoon and I was able to use that and finish the second rifle for the NRA Convention that year.   SURE was happy in came in on time for me to use the real Mold Release on the second rifle.  Oh, BOY, was I happy!!  Grin.
Gus

Frenchy

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Re: acraglass mixture
« Reply #27 on: April 01, 2014, 05:35:02 AM »
Micro Bed has been off the market for about 10 yrs. I talked to Brownell's about 5 yrs. ago about it. Was told that the guy that made it died and his daughters wanted a ridiculous price for it so they would not buy it.
If you know where I can get some, please let me know.

eddillon

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Re: acraglass mixture
« Reply #28 on: April 01, 2014, 08:44:06 AM »
Ed,
Your experience mirrors mine.  It is very forgiving.  I even used mine before I found out about the microwaving deal.  It had some little flecks in it after mixing but it didn't affect anything.

Speaking of horn, that water buffalo horn I got from you it some of the toughest stuff I've ever worked with.  Seems like it takes forever to get it worked down.  I stayed away from the belt sander because of the dust and had to use a very coarse rasp on the outside.  All fine rasps or files do is polish it a bit.  To cut the barrel channel I used a gouge and mallet.
My trusty back saw proved to be very handy.  Once you get the horn down to where you want it, it takes a beautiful polish and lustre. 4/0000 steel wool and rotten stone with mineral oil. really does it.  I use it in a lot of builds.  Modern and antique.