carving tools

[A.Merrill]

      I need a good set of carving tools. I don't want full size tools,  that has to be driven with a malit. But for doing carvings around wrist and behind cheek rest. What is the 5 or 6 most used tools other than the parting? What do you have the most control with, straight handle or palm handle? Does the micro tools come in handy for detailed work? And what size cutting edges are most useful? Sorry for all the questions but I'm ready to order and need some info.....
       Thanks guys.     Al

[Kevin Houlihan]

I bought a set similar to the set in my link 25 years ago and I still use them today.  They were all that I used for almost 10 years.  It's a great set to get started with
http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2003000/3760/Beginner's-Carving-Tools.aspx
Kevin

[Jim Kibler]

I would suggest straight handles of decent size.  Full size tools are actually what I would suggest.  What you need depends on the style of carving you want to create and the method you want to go about doing it.

[Ed Wenger]

Al,

This is one of the most frequently asked questions regarding carving.  I agree 100% with what Jim said relative to full size tools.  Also, that the method you use will dictate the type of tools. 

I recently did some carving for a S. Lauck inspired piece and did it with the least amount of gouges I could.  I didn't do it to show I'm Joe wood carver (I'm not), I did it to demonstrate that decent results can be achieved without spending a lot of money on 40 different gouges.

Having said that, I basically used four tools.  A small, fairly tight radius gouge, a little bigger fairly tight radius gouge, a wider, shallow radius gouge, and a 3/16" skew.  The wider radius gouge I "picked" from an antique store for a couple bucks.  I then used two flat chisels to remove wood and create the raised wood carving.

Obviously, this is for raised carving.  For incised carving (what Jim was talking about relative to method), you would need different tools.  The longer lines, both straight and curved, were stabbed with the skew.  Actually they're stabbed by rocking the skew back and forth using my thumb as a fulcrum.

Hope that doesn't muddy the water too much, and makes some sense....





      Ed

[Acer Saccharum]

Showoff. 

[Acer Saccharum]

Al, there is a mini tutorial I did with a small number of tools: http://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=12.0

I would caution that the type and number of tools you need are dictated by the kid of carving you want to do. Kentucky rifle carving in general can be done with a handful of tools.

Another mini tutorial on low relief: http://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=23123.0
Not a lot of tools were used for this style of carving. Take note if your wallet is telling you you need a whole set of gouges.

[PPatch]

"Full-size" means a tool with a straight shank and a handle. They are about 7-8 inches long overall. The cutting ends come in all sizes from tiny 1/16th chisels to large parting style, they also come in a great many shapes, radious and so on. You don't need, and probably won't actually use more than five or so for 90% of your work. One tends to make do with what is at hand and you don't need 15 sweeps to create a volute for instance. One does not generally use a mallet for the smaller tipped tools although a gentle tap is needed at times. Actually for some line work a 1lb wood mallet gives better control (make your own). I have no idea what sort of carving you intend but there are a few tools that really come in handy.

1/8th and 1/4 inch parting chisels. Good for inletting ram rod pipes and barrel keys, The 1/4 comes in all kinds of handy. You could make your own.

I like and use a great deal a #3 sweep gouge in both 3mm (1/8th inch) and 6mm (1/4 inch). I find them useful for cutting in and removing background.

These are full sized tools (I do not endorse any brand): http://www.traditionalwoodworker.com/Straight-Chisels-and-Gouges/departments/391/

Whatever tools you end up buying you are going to need to keep them very very sharp. You will need a strop, one can be made by gluing an old piece of leather to a pine board. A Black Arkansas stone is great for just before the strop.

Good luck with your carving. Buy a few tools to get started, practice carving and you'll soon know what else you need.

dp

[A.Merrill]

    Thanks for the info guys. I've done some carving in the past that turn out purty nice. I'm just tiered of these cheap old tools I have and ready for new ones.. Thanks again.    AL

[Jerry V Lape]

A. Merrill,  your comment you are tired of the cheap old tools you have is reason not to buy another set of cheap tools again.  I bought a bunch of palm chisels, good ones.  Find them almost useless.  Mid size chisels are some better as they are useable with a mallet.  Full sized is best.  They can be used by hand only with both hands on them for control or with the mallet.  I would suggest you ask Jim Kibler for his list of tools to bring to his carving classes.  Wish I had that list in hand before I ever started buying chisels.  And remember that cheap tools are just that "cheap".   

[Acer Saccharum]

Jerry, you should sell you palm chisels on the ALR. some guys prefer them.

I like the palm tools for delicate modeling of the carving.  For backgrounding, parting tool and gouge work, I prefer the longer tools that I tap along with a mallet. Withg the mallet, I can stop a cut whenever, wherever, with no fear of over running.

[Habu]

I've got a few carving tools that started out as palm tools.  I never could get the hang of them, so I re-handled them like normal tools.  They work OK for hand work, but I seldom put a mallet to them.

[A.Merrill]

      I was thinking of using the palm tools for detail work.     AL

[Acer Saccharum]

I use the palms for very fine shaving cuts. An example would be rounding off or sculpting the hollows of my relief carving. I don't use them for anything else.

[mjm46@bellsouth.net]

I've  been using Phiel palm chisels since I started building rifles. They don't seem to have a very high following, but I like them and use them for almost everything. I do have some full size chisels and something called cadet chisels (a little smaller, but not palm). I guess there is no rule, use what you can control best is the only advice I can give you.

[Acer Saccharum]

I believe Taylor Sapergia told me he cuts his exquisite curved lines pushing the tool by hand. I can't do this, I must tap the chisel along with a mallet. This means a longer tool for me, so I'm not rapping my tool hand with the mallet.

Tool length is related to what your style of carving is, how you hold the tools, what you're most comfortable with.

[Jim Kibler]

There can be the approach that a lot of different tools and techniques can be used in the carving process and that if it feels good for you then go with it.  The other approach is to try to understand more academic methods that have been followed by professional carvers for a long time.  I'll just say, there's often a reason these techniques are fairly defined and have been passed down for so long.  I learned the basics of carving from Wallace Gusler who pretty much follows an academic approach, so this is my preference.   I could probably carve with a few flattened and sharpened nails, but that doesn't mean it would be best.  But in the end it all depends on what you are trying to accomplish. 

[A.Merrill]

    Does anybody have Jim's list of carving tool that he asks people to bring to his carving class.??  Raised carving is the main carving I'll be doing.    Thanks again everybody I really appreciate the help.   AL

[Kermit]

Maybe Jim does.

[Jim Kibler]

Here's a link to a thread where I listed carving tools I use most often:

http://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=28886.15

Jim

[okieboy]

 I think it should be mentioned that irregardless of the specific tools that you choose, having a good sharpening system and being able to correctly sharpen the different shapes to very sharp edges will have a major effect on how well they work for you.

[A.Merrill]

    Okieboy,  I have some Arkansas stones , the white and black and leather on a pine 2x4. I was thinking about buying the sharpening block Flexcut offers. I think it would help with the gouges. But if you or anybody else has a better idea I would like to hear it..... AL

[Acer Saccharum]

I have made up a series of stropping blocks for various gouges. The wood is maple or birch, anything close grained and hard will work. I charge the blocks with diamond compound. Draw the tool backwards on the wood. Rounded ends fit inside the gouges, gullets for stropping the outside of the gouges.

Finish tool off with a light buff on a felt wheel with rouge.

[okieboy]

 And they are all together in one place!

[omark]

And they are all together in one place!

the sure sign of a sick mind.    mark

[A.Merrill]

    In a good work shop everything has its place, even on the bench while in use.