Waterproofing and antiquing a canvas possibles bag....

[smokehouseman]

I've put together a canvas possibles bag and wanted to know if anyone has any good techniques for waterproofing and antiquing the bag.  Any help will be appreciated.

[ottawa]

I've asked the same question about how to antique something and the best answer is just use it and let nature take its course for the item
I've seen some that had been painted to help water proof them at least that's what the cards read at the museum

[Z. Buck]

depending on exactly the time frame you are looking at as well as location paint was quite popular, from what i understand it is especially so in military applications, some other options are the boiled linseed oil  or even beeswax of some sort. of course tar type stuff could be used...also i suspect that some linseed oil that was used had metal oxides in it and would be technically what we call oil paint now. barn paint that is still available in my area is just boiled oil with a  mix of dryers and either iron or other metal oxide, (white used to be lead, probably zinc now) so its pretty much open

[PINYONE]

SHM- waht I have done over the years not knowing about reenacting was with my canvas nail aprons was coat them heavily with boiled linseed oil from time to time, I have some 30 years old and still using them. They actually look antique from use. You can for Colonial effect mix in some body Red primer that is used on cars, and When it is dry, take a little Rustoleum black heat primer with a little linseed oil work it in to your choice and takes a day or so to dry- will last for years, and look period. The Great Pinyone

[T.C.Albert]

Just a safety note, application rags soaked with linseed oil can spontaneously combust and must be disposed of or stored accordingly...I know I'm preachin' to the choir, but thought it worth a mention just in case...
TCA

[smokehouseman]

Oh yes, I hear you on that note.  I am actually not concerned about being PC, I'm just wanting the bag to have some character while at the same time providing protection from moisture.  I think I'm going to end up using beeswax, boiled linseed oil, turpentine and a little dark walnut stain.  I'll report back the results.  Thanks for the suggestions and comments.

[eagle24]

I made a haversack a few months ago from white canvas.  I melted pure beeswax and ironed it in with an old Iron heated on the grill.  Dirtied it up by rubbing it with pine bark.  At first it was really stiff and noisy, but it has softened up with use and I like it now.  Water beads up and rolls off better than a ducks back.  I'll post a picture of it tonight.

[Brian Jordan]

Nice looking bag GHall, I think T.C. Albert did an article in Muzzloader mag. about making, and sealing a bag with beeswax.

[smokehouseman]

I mixed up a batch of beeswax, turpentine, boiled linseed oil, and dark walnut stain in a double boiler and then applied it to the bag with a brush.  I then took the bag and stuffed it with newspapers and stuck it in a preheated 350 degree oven  while on a wire rack with a piece of aluminum under it.  My biggest fear of course at this point was a fire in the oven, I left it in for 30 seconds just long enough to let it soak into the canvas.  After I pulled it out I worked it over with crumpled newspaper.  The newspaper is what really gave the bag it's character.  The next time I do a bag I think I'll skip the oven and use a heat gun.  Sure wish I could figure out posting pictures, if I figure it out I'll get one on.

[Dphariss]

I would use home boiled "boiled" linseed oil and skip the antiquing. Most people over do this anyway.
Home cooking the "boiled" linseed oil sold in stores for 30 minutes to an hour with some calcium carbonate, 2-3 ounces of limestone whacked with a hammer to increase its surface area, will greatly reduce the acid level of the oil. I use a deep fat fryer set on high. Make a gallon and decant into jars when cool. A gallon makes less than a gallon of finished oil if cooked right since some cook away.
This will darken the oil as well and give better color.
Some boiled oils as bought from the store may be acid enough to attack the fabric. They generally dry too slowly as well so cooking with the limestone or calcium carbonate is critical. You may add a little japan drier as well. Less than a tablespoon for a gallon.
I think you will find this is more "HC" than beewax and will be just as waterproof if done right. The color will be right as well.
When exposed to direct sunlight (UV) it will dry pretty quickly and remain elastic.
You can do the fabric in large pieces and make bedrolls and such as well.

Dan