General discussion > Contemporary Accoutrements

Waterproofing and antiquing a canvas possibles bag....

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smokehouseman:
Oh yes, I hear you on that note.  I am actually not concerned about being PC, I'm just wanting the bag to have some character while at the same time providing protection from moisture.  I think I'm going to end up using beeswax, boiled linseed oil, turpentine and a little dark walnut stain.  I'll report back the results.  Thanks for the suggestions and comments.

eagle24:
I made a haversack a few months ago from white canvas.  I melted pure beeswax and ironed it in with an old Iron heated on the grill.  Dirtied it up by rubbing it with pine bark.  At first it was really stiff and noisy, but it has softened up with use and I like it now.  Water beads up and rolls off better than a ducks back.  I'll post a picture of it tonight.

Brian Jordan:
Nice looking bag GHall, I think T.C. Albert did an article in Muzzloader mag. about making, and sealing a bag with beeswax.

smokehouseman:
I mixed up a batch of beeswax, turpentine, boiled linseed oil, and dark walnut stain in a double boiler and then applied it to the bag with a brush.  I then took the bag and stuffed it with newspapers and stuck it in a preheated 350 degree oven  :o while on a wire rack with a piece of aluminum under it.  My biggest fear of course at this point was a fire in the oven, I left it in for 30 seconds just long enough to let it soak into the canvas.  After I pulled it out I worked it over with crumpled newspaper.  The newspaper is what really gave the bag it's character.  The next time I do a bag I think I'll skip the oven and use a heat gun.  Sure wish I could figure out posting pictures, if I figure it out I'll get one on.

Dphariss:
I would use home boiled "boiled" linseed oil and skip the antiquing. Most people over do this anyway.
Home cooking the "boiled" linseed oil sold in stores for 30 minutes to an hour with some calcium carbonate, 2-3 ounces of limestone whacked with a hammer to increase its surface area, will greatly reduce the acid level of the oil. I use a deep fat fryer set on high. Make a gallon and decant into jars when cool. A gallon makes less than a gallon of finished oil if cooked right since some cook away.
This will darken the oil as well and give better color.
Some boiled oils as bought from the store may be acid enough to attack the fabric. They generally dry too slowly as well so cooking with the limestone or calcium carbonate is critical. You may add a little japan drier as well. Less than a tablespoon for a gallon.
I think you will find this is more "HC" than beewax and will be just as waterproof if done right. The color will be right as well.
When exposed to direct sunlight (UV) it will dry pretty quickly and remain elastic.
You can do the fabric in large pieces and make bedrolls and such as well.

Dan

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