Author Topic: Filling a mis-drilled hole  (Read 5377 times)

Offline PIKELAKE

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Filling a mis-drilled hole
« on: April 23, 2014, 03:38:12 PM »
I'm looking for ideas on how to fill a mis-drilled hole on a brass lock plate. The hole in question is one that I drilled in error for the front lock bolt. The hole is a little low and the lock bolt interferes with the ramrod. I am aware of tapering the ramrod, using only one lock bolt. re-working the lock bolt itself etc. I would really prefer to use two bolts. I have no resource to braze the hole shut. Filling the hole with a brass bolt and re-drilling maybe? Measure twice and cut once, yeah and I still messed it up. Thanks folks.......JZ
JOHN ZUREKI

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Re: Filling a mis-drilled hole
« Reply #1 on: April 23, 2014, 03:45:51 PM »
this happens more often than you think. Don't try filling the hole in the plate, unless it goes straight through the center of the ramrod hole.

Usually those mis-drilled holes only kiss the top edge impairing the movement of the ramrod. The easiest fix, since it's the front bolt and doesn't actually do much, you can file a notch in the center of the bolt to allow the ramrod access. When you do this be sure to mark the head of the screw with an indicator where the notch is so it can be reassembled correctly.

Good luck.
« Last Edit: April 23, 2014, 03:49:23 PM by Micah »

Offline jerrywh

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Re: Filling a mis-drilled hole
« Reply #2 on: April 23, 2014, 06:32:04 PM »
  Do you have enough heat source to silver solder at 1250°?  Putting another screw in the hole or riveting will probably not work and will make a bigger mess. In cases like that you don't always have a choice of what you want to do.  You could screw a lug into the back side. Then drill and tap the lug for a through screw if you understand what I'm saying. The lug can be as large as the diameter of the plate without hurting anything.
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Offline Curtis

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Re: Filling a mis-drilled hole
« Reply #3 on: April 23, 2014, 08:45:32 PM »
What Jerry said +1.  I have also screwed a false bolt end in the hole, soldered it in place and then blind tapped the real bolt hole in the lock plate.

Curtis
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Offline PIKELAKE

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Re: Filling a mis-drilled hole
« Reply #4 on: April 24, 2014, 01:00:53 AM »
Thanks fellas for some ideas. Jerry I do understand your fix, if only I could silver solder that tab then re-drill. You are right about trying to fill the stupid hole, I would probably really make a bigger mess. Micah, on the rifle I hunt with there was some interference with the ramrod. I tapered the rod and ground a flat on the lock bolt indexing the bolt head. The problem I was trying to avoid with that solution is that, I know to pull the ram rod to then remove the lock. Down the road the next owner, grandkids or my sons have to be made aware of that first step. Curtis thank you for another fix. I have built about 20 rifles and have learned something new every time but this is the first time that I can remember that I've made the same mistake twice. Thanks again...........JZ
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Offline Dphariss

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Re: Filling a mis-drilled hole
« Reply #5 on: April 24, 2014, 07:13:51 AM »
I'm looking for ideas on how to fill a mis-drilled hole on a brass lock plate. The hole in question is one that I drilled in error for the front lock bolt. The hole is a little low and the lock bolt interferes with the ramrod. I am aware of tapering the ramrod, using only one lock bolt. re-working the lock bolt itself etc. I would really prefer to use two bolts. I have no resource to braze the hole shut. Filling the hole with a brass bolt and re-drilling maybe? Measure twice and cut once, yeah and I still messed it up. Thanks folks.......JZ

Easiest way, unless there is too little wood is the make a rod hole scraper and simply lower the hole till the rod clears the lock bolt.
Photobucket is down right now so no pics.

Dan
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Offline Dphariss

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Re: Filling a mis-drilled hole
« Reply #6 on: April 24, 2014, 04:19:57 PM »
Rod hole scraper.

I filed it then peaned an edge at the front then whacked on the edge of the anvil etc to put a bend in the end so it cut. This is a 48" piece of 5/16 304 or 303 stainless and cannot be hardened,  works OK soft though.







It will also cut out rod pipes and/or jam in them so don't leave them in the stock when using it.
I put a flat point on the other end to root out the chips that tend to pack in the end of the hole. Will fix the problem in a couple of minutes once its adjusted to cut. Mild steel rod should work as well.

Dan
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Offline PIKELAKE

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Re: Filling a mis-drilled hole
« Reply #7 on: April 24, 2014, 05:02:35 PM »
Thank you Dan for this suggestion. I'm going to give it a try. Sounds easy enough and makes sense.      JZ
JOHN ZUREKI

Offline James Wilson Everett

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Re: Filling a mis-drilled hole
« Reply #8 on: April 24, 2014, 07:52:34 PM »
Guys,

Don't feel too bad about filling a hole in a lockplate.  Here is an original lockplate from the Fry brothers gunshop, Ligonier,Pa.  This one probably put a lot of meat on the table.

Jim

« Last Edit: December 03, 2019, 02:55:43 AM by James Wilson Everett »

Offline smylee grouch

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Re: Filling a mis-drilled hole
« Reply #9 on: April 25, 2014, 01:17:18 AM »
Thanks for the tool tip Dan, that looks like something just about every builder can use eventualy.

Offline PIKELAKE

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Re: Filling a mis-drilled hole
« Reply #10 on: April 25, 2014, 03:38:54 PM »
Glad to see that I'm not the only one who has miss- drilled. On a steel or iron lock plate I'm guessing that a hole could be welded shut but I wasn't sure about one made of brass. Thanks again,  JZ
JOHN ZUREKI

Offline T*O*F

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Re: Filling a mis-drilled hole
« Reply #11 on: April 25, 2014, 04:57:48 PM »
Quote
I'm guessing that a hole could be welded shut but I wasn't sure about one made of brass
It can be done depending on how good you are and what equipment you have.  Filling a hole is different than welding a hole shut.  You need an oxy/actyl torch with the smallest tip and some brass of the same composition as your plate.  Make a filler plug that is slightly thicker (1/16th) than the plate.  Working off the plug, fuse it to the joint, no filler rod should be required.  You should have the plate on a piece of steel flat stock to act as a heat sink.  You don't want to overheat the whole plate, just pinpoint in the area of the repair.  I've done 1/2 a dozen of them this way.  If you don't mind a color mismatch, you could also use a brass screw.  I have a coffee can that I always save sprue cutoffs for this purpose.

That being said, some of the other ideas are just as easy.  Which one you use depends on what resources you have at hand.  When these things happen, I want to make the repair NOW so I use whatever one happens to be convenient
Dave Kanger

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