First new build finally finished

[Whaleman]

I have finally finished my Bedford build. I live close enoough to Pectonica Longrifles that I drove over and talked to Dick Greensides. I asked for a grade 5 stock and was willing to wait until he found the right one. It took about 4 months but he found a great one. My photos do not do justice to the curl. I had to cut a new sideplate because if I centered the front lock screw it would have been right through the ramrod hole. I tried and tried to blue the barrel and finally just sent off to Hot Flash refinishing where for $66.00 they did a dip only as I had polished myself. Thanks for answering all my questions. Dan
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[P.W.Berkuta]

Very nice for your first rifle and something to be proud of -- all shinny and new - would look good over the fireplace - enjoy.

[gunmaker]

Thats a great idea on re-positioning the front lock bolt.....Tom

[Whaleman]

Thanks Tom, I did not really think it was a different way of doing it. Some things I learned:

1. L&R locks are "kits" I had to install a bushing and make a new sear screw along with fitting both.
2. I tried to learn to beginning engrave but could not get it to work. I even ordered a CD on engraving. I could not get the graver sharpening down.
3. My most used chisle hands down was one I made to copy one on this site for stabbing in. Very very small with a kinda curved cutting edge. I used for inleting and carving. made from an old 1/4" chisle.
4. I was very happy with the LMF stain but did need to cut it 50% with alchol or it would have been too dark.
5. I went through three drums before I got one fit to the barrel correctly and drilled for the nipple and have it end up right. Glad they are cheap. Yes, I had the TOW jig.
6. Cold blue sucks. I could get screw heads fine but the whole barrel no way. Want to do rust blue next time.
7. Chambers oil finish is very easy to use, is forgiving and gave the exact gloss I wanted. I did about 10 very light coats and it looks an inch deep.
8. Dick Greensides from Pectonica is a very nice man. Took the time to show me his whole shop and his 1920 carving machine. Found me a super good piece of wood even though he might have wondered if he was wasting a great stock with a first time builder. Some parts he supplied with the Bedford kit were not perfectly correct like the toeplate was only 1" long. I never said a word and just cut a new one. I liked it way better.
9. Took the buttplate with me on my annual fishing trip to Canada and spent some early mornings watching the sun come up over the lake while filing and sanding the buttplate. Wife thought I was nuts.
10. A good american made file is necessary to draw file a barrel properly.
11. I took a brass screw and filed it into a rivit for the nosecap. After annealing it peened perfectly and I would have to point it out as it is almost impossible to see. I know some would like to see copper rivit but this is what I wanted.
12. I used small escutions for the barrel pins and used small brass nails fro TOW and peened them into countersunk holes and the can't be seen.
13. After 3 rear sights I learned file the sight not the dovetail to fit.Dan

[Glenn]

Nice job with that beautiful wood grain.  I'm sure it will be a fine shooter.   

[kaintuck]

You forgot #14.......multi pierced patch boxes are for Jedi knights to do.....as you need the "force" to help keep your sanity!!

Good job!
Marc

[JTR]

Nice job!
Not many guys make Bedfords, so it's nice to see one!

Your side plate is really appropriate. The old boys had the same problem and similar plates were used by William Defibaugh, John Amos and Jacob Stoudenour, among others, no doubt to move the bolt as well.

John

[Whaleman]

The sideplate was patterened after the exact makers you mentioned as seen in Calvin Hetrick's " The Bedford County Rifle and it's makers". I know Bedford's are not the rage these days. I also polished the brass more than I normally see the pro builders here do. My goal was to make the rifle in "as new" condition. Can anyone tell me the latest thinking as to if period builders making a gun that was not presold would have attempted to make it look as new and shiny as possible? Dan

[AsMs]

Whaleman

Over all very nice first build.  Far better than my first.  The biggest thing that pops out at me is the nosecap.  While it may have been used I believe the grooved nose cap looks better on a Bedford.  See Peter White and Daniel Border rifles in the archives.   I live in Bedford and of all of the originals that I have seen in this area all had a grooved nose cap.


AsMs

[Whaleman]

AsMs, you are maybe/mostly correct. When I started I went with a parts set from Pectonica. The stock was great. I mean really really great. Some of the other parts were not perfect. I changed many parts  they supplied.  I believe you are for sure correct but would not have worked with my precarve. Thank You Dan

[rich pierce]

Looks like you have the fundamentals of putting a gun together, tight inletting, and good finishing well covered.  Your build reminds me of my first in that way.  I had a lot to learn about shaping, architecture, and carving.  It's always hard to tell without the gun in hand because lighting is so tricky in photos but I think I see a few areas that could use better shaping and the carving looks flat, sort of layed on top of the buttstock.

Architectural areas to study and compare to originals and some fine contemporary guns:
The area behind the tang looks flat on top then squared over at the lock panels.
The general stock shaping looks more oblong or rectangular in cross section than elliptical.  This applies to the wrist, fore stock, etc.
The ramrod groove and nose cap don't match up, leaving the ramrod hanging.
I might have angled the patchbox a little differently but you will see originals like yours.
Sights are kind of high.  Some shooters like them tall but originals were seldom tall.  They make them tall so I can saw them off, I figure.

Just putting together a functional rifle tat is well fitted and finished is a big accomplishment for a first build, and you have obvious skills.  If you get a chance, have a pro builder handle it and ask him about the various comments you get here.  Usually when I get guys to critique guns there are varying opinions on some aspects and consensus on others. 

[rich pierce]

My goal was to make the rifle in "as new" condition. Can anyone tell me the latest thinking as to if period builders making a gun that was not presold would have attempted to make it look as new and shiny as possible? Dan

I don't think they used rouge etc on brass.  Often one can even see some file marks inside trigger guards etc, on originals.  I like a satin finish on metal.  Varnished stocks were probably shiny at first.  Most rifles were meant to be built in a week, so they didn't fuss around like we tend to do. 

[Whaleman]

Thank You Rich. Yes, when I inlet the weaping heart I got it too low and had to flatten that area more than I wanted. I have not shot yet so that is why the sight is still tall. Since this was a precarve and the ranrod hole was already drilled and the nosecap was supplied I am at a loss how I could have tightened this up. Thanks for you comments. Dan

[rich pierce]

Dan, these sorts of things often pop up with precarves  and sometimes with kits.  We've all fussed around such situations, and it's easier with a blank, in my experience.  If I had a sense that the web between the barrel and the ramrod groove was too thick, or the nose cap too shallow, it'd consider a couple options, understanding that some may not work because of the wood that's been already shaped in the precarve.

Easiest would be to make a deeper nose cap, but I like them shallow!  So then, if the web is thicker than I like, I would see whether inletting the barrel deeper could be done, or whether I could gradually and carefully deepen the ramrod groove until it fades right into the nose cap.  Generally it's a little of this, a little of that.

You obviously have a lot of skill, as the fit and finish are really as good as one could hope for, and it's your first rifle!  I think you're ready to step up to building from a blank in your next build.  It's really helpful, as it forces the builder to make decisions and really understand how to position all the parts in relation to each other, how the furniture terminus architecture, etc.  You did a fine job in so many ways.  I find just inletting a buttplate on a precarve 3x as hard as on a blank. Having squared up surfaces makes some tasks much easier.

[justAwink]

Beautiful job!

[Whaleman]

Thank You JustA wink, I have had a job for the last 30 years that took a lot of time. I also have a 6 acre acreage that takes a lot of time to keep up. While I said this was my first buid that is not really true. In 1976 I built a CVA in my apartment at the time. I am now just retired. One of my retirement goals was to build a longrifle. I actually took 1 1/2 years to build this (on and off). That's why I asked Dick Greensides at Pectonica for the best wood stock he could find. As a mechanical enginner and carpenter I wanted to work with the best material even though I was not really qualified. The best advice I learned on this site is to carve/ cut small chips. I laughed when I first read that but learned that is correct. With curley maple I learned you can't take big cuts. I learned to take very small cuts with razer sharp tools. I had a lot of fun. Thanks so much Dan

[justAwink]

I have the same desire to build a long rifle as well. Just waiting for the pieces to arrive and get started. I have spent hours reading through the post here and always enjoy reading post like this one. Again good job!