Barrel Length Restoration, Smoothbores

[rhmc24]

***NOTICE FROM THE ALR MODERATORS***

The following post discusses the shooting of barrels that have been "stretched" by welding on a new piece of barrel.  While "stretching" a barrel to restore the original length on a valuable antique can be appropriate, barrels that have been stretched or repaired by welding SHOULD NEVER BE LOADED OR FIRED.  As a safety measure, welded barrels should be "spiked" to prevent uninformed persons from loading and firing the gun in the future.

The only reason this post was not deleted out-right, is that it does contain information on "stretching" barrels that might be useful to someone restoring an antique or planning to use an appropriate barrel liner to return a gun to service.

Proceed at your own risk. The ALR does NOT promote or support the concept of welding barrels for shooting purposes.

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Referring to mention here of this subject a few days ago.  Down memory lane I found this in my files, which I had written up to reply to someone interested in a rework of a flint pistol & for my own future reference, like now.  Early 1700s & before many pistols had 12-14" barrels, often later modernized to shorter lengths such as 9".  Long guns military & fowlers may have been shortened due to damage or for convenience.  Another reason may be that improvement in powder allowed shorter barrels.  Collector interest being strong in appearing original, many lengths were restored.    


BARREL STRETCHING NOTES

This is a recollection of my procedure in lengthening muzzle loading gun barrels.  It is what works for me, rather than a statement of the 'best way'.  Not a tutorial, it assumes a user will have 'how-to' experience for details.  All this should be taken as suggestions with variation according to need.

Muzzle bores are often larger than the parent bore of the barrel, so cut back to the true bore.

The added barrel should be a bit smaller bore than the original to allow boring to match the original, best from the breech end if possible.

The piece to be added should be turned to be concentric to the bore.  Old barrels seldom are and it is important to have at that part of your job concentric for later use.

To assure concentricity of the original bore and that of the added piece, turn an alignment bushing to fit the two bores. The bushing can be of hardwood which will burn with welding and can be pushed out.  There can be advantage in using a steel bushing instead of wood. A deep welding job is easy to assure.  It should be made with a hole thru its center to assure concentricity when boring it out.

The joining edges are ground back to an angle on each mating end to give a "V" in which to weld.  Use electric welding, MIG, TIG or stick to localize heat.  Weld first a good deep tack on one side, check straightness of barrel, then another good tack at 180 degrees away.  Then complete the weld.

Barrel will need some adjustment to be straight.  This is a reason for having turned the added piece concentric.  Chucking it in the lathe will quickly show how much correction is needed.  Usually it can be done cold.  Use heat on the original side if heat is necessary.

Bore as necessary to get the same ID throughout the bore.  Clean up tool marks or, depending on intended use, for shooting ream the bore as necessary.  

Sometimes it is practical to make a dummy breech plug, find center, and turn the added piece between centers as close as possible before going to manual finishing.

Once the job is complete & during the prep phase before final finishing, heat the joint at least half inch each side to a red heat.  That tends to make the differences in the three steels less obvious in final finish.  


After note (5-14), In antique gun restoration I have 'stretched', to use the then commmon dealer/collector term, dozens of barrels, mostly pistols and only two long guns I can remember. One English Officers Fusil I recall adding a foot or so of barrel & reaming its bore to be the same full length.  I have no doubt that it was as serviceable as it had ever been, its barrel, the added barrel attached with weld more sound than either.  As a practice I always bored the added piece to be the same as its parent bore, in the even someone should shoot it.  I reamed only on clients request. In flint restoration, I usually did not harden frizzens for the same reason, except on request.

[rich pierce]

Thanks for these restoration tips. 

I don't personally know any gun builders or restorers who deem it safe to shoot a barrel restored in this way, and most advise against the use of original barrels for shooting, period.  I think it is important because we have no idea the experience level of some of our readers, to note that these techniques are not commonly accepted techniques for obtaining a shootable barrel.  On the other hand, boring a welded barrel and installing a liner is sometimes done to make a barrel shootable.  Even in those cases, a careful examination of the breeching and correcting any defects there is one of many safety measures to be taken.  I would welcome opinions from barrel makers who have done a good deal of this work, as well as pro builders, on their practices in using original barrels, with and without welded extensions.

[James Wilson Everett]

Guys,

This is a very interesting topic, but certainly one that is well beyond the apprentice & journeyman category.  The last "stretched" barrel I examined was the brass barrel rifle.  An amazing gun and a wonderful restoration, but certainly not for shooting.

The sage advice on not shooting original barrels should be clarified to "do not shoot original muzzle loading guns".  This is most especially true for guns of any artistic or historical value.  It is great to have the original in shootable condition, but don't risk damage to the gun (and to yourself) by doing that.  Buy a modern made one for the flash & bang.

That said, I very often use original barrels on my guns.  I try to find old barrels, most specifically those gosh awful nose heavy straight barrels, you know 1" across the flats and 36 caliber.  These make great raw material for making a new barrel.  Currently I am remaking a barrel that is 15/16" 36 caliber and 39" long.  When finished I will have a swamped barrel, 38" long, 42 caliber and of the proper material - wrought iron.  

Here is a photo of a gun with such a remade barrel.  Now it is an oct - rnd 41 cal smoothbore Lehigh gun with a wrought iron barrel.  This gun I essentially made showing all the steps on this site - lockmaking - screw making - barrel proofing and so on.




Another way of using a remade original barrel is to install a barrel liner, either smoothbore or rifled.  I have done this many times with good success.  Although the cost of the finished rifled barrel will be rather high as the liner alone costs as much as a new made barrel.  This does allow the use of a good old barrel.

Here is a photo of a gun with such a remade barrel.  Now it is on a Brandenburg style German rifle. The barrel as I received it was an absolutely beautiful swamped twist iron Jaeger barrel with a completely rotted out bore.  With a rifled liner it is now both good looking and a good shooter.  I always proof test any barrel that I have either made or remade, also for these remade barrels I only use a modest powder charge.



As for lengthening an old barrel, I have never done that, but I would if using a liner.  Come to think of it, I would like to try it sometime, as soon as I get a round tuit.

Jim

[Dphariss]

I am amazed that its possible to get a clean weld in an old iron barrel. This stuff is normally so full of inclusions that it will bubble and fizz when welded with an arc or torch. My experience is in welding iron parts from the Civil War era, Sharps receivers and lockplates. I finally found a way to make it work on one lock plate and was able to save it by filling the craters from 2-3 previous attempts with Mig and torch. But I would not trust the welds for any pressure bearing part. To be frank pigs will fly before I would shoot a barrel with a piece welded on. In fact I would not even be on the same range if I knew this were going on. If lined with a modern barrel steel liner this is another matter. I have not evolved the ability to grow back missing parts like some reptiles.

Dan

[jerrywh]

I have lined damascus barrels but other than restoring an old original I can't see where it is cost effective.