New shooter advice

[Bluegoose23]

Hello all
I'm brand new (haven't even held a flintlock).  Am anxiously waiting for an ordered 54 cal for hunting primarily.  Guess I wanted to get on here to learn anything I can.  Any advice, reading material etc would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks much

[hanshi]

Stay in touch with the guys on this forum and ask questions; you'll get valuable advice and instruction for free.  Welcome to the dark side.

[PPatch]

Welcome to ALR!

"The Gunsmith of Grenville County" by Peter Alexander is a good resource, there are others which perhaps another member can advise you on. You haven't told us what style of 54 cal rifle you intend to build? Also, and not to be overlooked are the excellent Tutorials found on this site. You may also want to simply read prior posts here which cover pretty much all aspects of building, shooting and lots of history.

Have fun on that build, if you get stuck don't hesitate to ask questions.

Dave

PS: one thing about Alexander's book is that his advise is predicated on beginning with a blank board - the procedure for a pre-carve is a little different so you should research that and incorporate it into your build.

[SCLoyalist]

I suggest getting a copy of Eric Bye's book "Flintlocks - A practical guide..." Available through NMLRA or  Amazon (and no doubt other vendors as well).   No doubt experienced shooters will find something to disagree with or pick at in the book, but the book does a pretty
good job of introducing the reader to muzzleloaders in general and flintlocks in particular.
 
Are you new to muzzleloading or just new to flintlocks? 

Good luck and welcome aboard.

[T*O*F]

You haven't told us what style of 54 cal rifle you intend to build?

PPatch,
He said he's waiting on a gun, not necessarily building one.  I think he want to know how to shoot one.

[George Sutton]

Hi, did you order a finished rifle or components to build a rifle?

If you ordered a finished rifle, I would think that the builder would have fired it and that would give you a starting point.

I agree that Eric Bye's book is a good starter reference book.

The basic things that you will need are, some type of container for your powder, an adjustable powder measure (50 to 100 grains range), a small horn or container to use for priming powder, the right sized lead balls either .530 or .535, different thickness of 100% cotton pillow ticking from .010 to .020, a range rod (until you get used to using a wood ramrod), the correct size cleaning jag, bullet puller, and breech scraper, a vent pick, and a bag or box to carry everything. And of course black powder. I personally like 3f Goex for the main charge and you can buy a can of Goex 4f for prime.

I think I covered it all.


Never leave your rifle dirty overnight anad insure it is very clean before you put it away.

You my friend are about to have the time of your life.

Centershot

[Bluegoose23]

Thanks guys. 
Nah  I'm not building.    Ordering completed from TVM.      Just felt too green to try and tackle a build.   Also I wanted it ready for upcoming season. 

[Bluegoose23]

Stay in touch with the guys on this forum and ask questions; you'll get valuable advice and instruction for free.  Welcome to the dark side.

Thanks.  Will do!!

[WadePatton]

Welcome to the site, first.

Now do tell us if you are waiting on a complete rifle or a pile of parts.

This is in the shooting section, so I'm guessing it's a complete gun and the management and feeding of the rock-locked smokey pole is your focus.  

Korect us when wee R rong.  

Here's what i got to throw into the heap:  You should FIRST, try real hard to find some longrifle folks LOCAL enough that you can get some first-timer mentoring.  Tell us where you are, we may be able to flush some out.

Second, with regard to any rifle, you should try both sizes of balls and many sizes of patches.  Getting the ball/patch combo good and snug without being impossible to load is a great way to start down the path to good accuracy and extensive shooting without wiping.

I would (as I am currently doing) develop a load for both FF and FFF.  Reasoning: your gun won't like both the same and it surely won't like both at the same volume. There could be some point in time when you have access to only one powder, be ahead of that game.  As the 54 can eat some powder, I'm developing target loads as well as hunting loads (total of 4).

Oh but wait, that's with water-based lube (saliva) only.  An additional 2 loads will be developed for hunting, as an fat/oil based patch lube should be used for hunting when the gun may be loaded for extended periods of time.  Be aware that the first cold/clean shot out of a bbl will generally land "outside the group" and that's the most important shot for hunting.

You can prime with any black powder, FF, FFF, or FFFF suit yourself, there are many opinions.  Many folks don't care to keep up with two different powder containers and simply prime with whichever powder they use for the main charge.

Buy several flints, you may get 50 shots from one and 4 from the next.  Always have a spare.

Expect your initial sighting/development sessions to land very low if the front sight has been left high.  Don't worry about it, put a target above your target, aim at the top one land on the bottom one-develop loads.  Then file/drift sights as needed.

Clean with water.  

Displace the water with water displacing aerosol spray oil.  Use heavier oil for long-term.

Good to go!
 

[Bluegoose23]

I suggest getting a copy of Eric Bye's book "Flintlocks - A practical guide..." Available through NMLRA or  Amazon (and no doubt other vendors as well).   No doubt experienced shooters will find something to disagree with or pick at in the book, but the book does a pretty
good job of introducing the reader to muzzleloaders in general and flintlocks in particular.
 
Are you new to muzzleloading or just new to flintlocks? 

Good luck and welcome aboard.

New to flintlocks.   Shot a cap lock maybe 30 years ago.   Sold it to help with school.  I'm kinda puttin the cart before the horse.  Shoulda shot one some before I bought one.  Oh well. Tally ho with the program as my dad used to say.  So my main concern is doing things right and not getting discouraged.  

[WadePatton]

oh yeah.

get/make a range rod of steel or brass.

and a ball puller.

Took me 60 loading to forget the powder.  IT happens-be prepared. 

[Bluegoose23]

Welcome to the site, first.

Now do tell us if you are waiting on a complete rifle or a pile of parts.

This is in the shooting section, so I'm guessing it's a complete gun and the management and feeding of the rock-locked smokey pole is your focus.  

Korect us when wee R rong.  

Here's what i got to throw into the heap:  You should FIRST, try real hard to find some longrifle folks LOCAL enough that you can get some first-timer mentoring.  Tell us where you are, we may be able to flush some out.

Second, with regard to any rifle, you should try both sizes of balls and many sizes of patches.  Getting the ball/patch combo good and snug without being impossible to load is a great way to start down the path to good accuracy and extensive shooting without wiping.

I would (as I am currently doing) develop a load for both FF and FFF.  Reasoning: your gun won't like both the same and it surely won't like both at the same volume. There could be some point in time when you have access to only one powder, be ahead of that game.  As the 54 can eat some powder, I'm developing target loads as well as hunting loads (total of 4).

Oh but wait, that's with water-based lube (saliva) only.  An additional 2 loads will be developed for hunting, as an fat/oil based patch lube should be used for hunting when the gun may be loaded for extended periods of time.  Be aware that the first cold/clean shot out of a bbl will generally land "outside the group" and that's the most important shot for hunting.

You can prime with any black powder, FF, FFF, or FFFF suit yourself, there are many opinions.  Many folks don't care to keep up with two different powder containers and simply prime with whichever powder they use for the main charge.

Buy several flints, you may get 50 shots from one and 4 from the next.  Always have a spare.

Expect your initial sighting/development sessions to land very low if the front sight has been left high.  Don't worry about it, put a target above your target, aim at the top one land on the bottom one-develop loads.  Then file/drift sights as needed.

Clean with water.  

Displace the water with water displacing aerosol spray oil.  Use heavier oil for long-term.

Good to go!
 

wow!!!   Lots of info!!!   Thanks.   It will be a complete rifle.    I am in the Dallas ft worth area.

 

[galudwig]

I second SCLoyalist's recommendation on the book by Eric Bye, ""Flintlocks - A practical guide...".  Excellent read for the beginner flintlock shooter.

There is a National Muzzle Loading Rifle Association affiliated Charter Club in your area that you might want to look into:

Dallas Muzzle Loading Gun Club

http://nmlra.org/business-directory/1418/dallas-muzzle-loading-gun-club/

I'm sure they will welcome you with open arms and be glad to help you learn all you need to know about flint guns. 

[WadePatton]

Great on DFW, there should be a club or something out that way.  

(and  you can go back and "modify" the previous message to put your comments _after_ the "/quote" part and it'll read proper.)  (Already done by your friendly ALR moderator.)

I'm sure the brisket-bbq eating locals will chime in.

[smylee grouch]

When you get your rifle you can practice shooting it at home by dry firing it with a wedge of wood in the jaws instead of a real flint. This helps some learn the feel and balance of the gun and helps you to learn that you have to follow through longer with a flintlock. You will want to make sure that the gun is indeed unloaded when you do this.

[Natureboy]

  From the first, you should establish a routine of loading, wiping etc.  When I'm at the range, I put the various components on the bench in the order of
their use:  powder, patch, ball, priming powder (if different from your main charge).  It's a flinter's mantra:  powder, patch, ball.  If you're at a public range, flinters attract the looky-loos, so try not to get distracted and load without powder (the feared "dry ball"), or double load.  It's a relatively peaceful, contemplative style of shooting, and don't be in a hurry.  Relax and enjoy the slowness of a style of shooting that is really old.  It might take
an hour to shoot 20 rounds.  It's great fun.  I look at the "zip gun" shooters (Peter Alexander's term) at the range and think they're fairly silly, jamming in full magazines and blasting off 20 rounds in a minute.  This is after Army service (class of '68) where quick loading and firing lots of rounds was normal.  And those new guns are really ugly, as much as I liked the M14.  Some of the accessories associated with flint shooting are really nice to have and use, and if you join a long rifle club, you might really enjoy dressing in period clothing and partaking in the fantasy of 18th- or 19th-century lifestyle.  I'm not a hunter, just a dreamer, and I'm working up a colonial, War of Independence "persona," which honors my ancestors' service in that war.  This is a great forum to peruse.  There are as many opinions as noses;  subjects like patch lube and bore cleaning can go on for days.  Welcome to the "old world."

[Bluegoose23]

I second SCLoyalist's recommendation on the book by Eric Bye, ""Flintlocks - A practical guide...".  Excellent read for the beginner flintlock shooter.

There is a National Muzzle Loading Rifle Association affiliated Charter Club in your area that you might want to look into:

Dallas Muzzle Loading Gun Club

http://nmlra.org/business-directory/1418/dallas-muzzle-loading-gun-club/

I'm sure they will welcome you with open arms and be glad to help you learn all you need to know about flint guns. 

.   Great!  Thanks

[Bluegoose23]

  From the first, you should establish a routine of loading, wiping etc.  When I'm at the range, I put the various components on the bench in the order of
their use:  powder, patch, ball, priming powder (if different from your main charge).  It's a flinter's mantra:  powder, patch, ball.  If you're at a public range, flinters attract the looky-loos, so try not to get distracted and load without powder (the feared "dry ball"), or double load.  It's a relatively peaceful, contemplative style of shooting, and don't be in a hurry.  Relax and enjoy the slowness of a style of shooting that is really old.  It might take
an hour to shoot 20 rounds.  It's great fun.  I look at the "zip gun" shooters (Peter Alexander's term) at the range and think they're fairly silly, jamming in full magazines and blasting off 20 rounds in a minute.  This is after Army service (class of '68) where quick loading and firing lots of rounds was normal.  And those new guns are really ugly, as much as I liked the M14.  Some of the accessories associated with flint shooting are really nice to have and use, and if you join a long rifle club, you might really enjoy dressing in period clothing and partaking in the fantasy of 18th- or 19th-century lifestyle.  I'm not a hunter, just a dreamer, and I'm working up a colonial, War of Independence "persona," which honors my ancestors' service in that war.  This is a great forum to peruse.  There are as many opinions as noses;  subjects like patch lube and bore cleaning can go on for days.  Welcome to the "old world."

.   Thanks!!   And thank you for your service. 

[Bluegoose23]

You haven't told us what style of 54 cal rifle you intend to build?

PPatch,
He said he's waiting on a gun, not necessarily building one.  I think he want to know how to shoot one.

. That's correct.

[Pete G.]

The first flint lock that I fired was the first one I built. That can sure lead to a bit of nervous excitement. As stated in one of the posts above, cut a small block of wood to use in place of a flint and dry fire your gun for a while, all the time concentrating on follow through. It is not unusual for someone without experience with these things to throw shots all over the place. Best thing to do is burn powder. Eventually your reflexes will become accustomed to all the stuff going on and it will become a little bit easier to keep your shots close together. At this point it is easy to think "I've got this now" and let down your concentration a bit. That is when the odd shot suddenly shows up and you start trying to figure out what is wrong with the gun. Only thing wrong with the gun is its attachment to the ground. I still sometimes realize that I did not see the flash of the prime, which can only mean that my eyes were closed in anticipation.

Remember...Concentration and Follow Through.

[Bluegoose23]

Great on DFW, there should be a club or something out that way.  

(and  you can go back and "modify" the previous message to put your comments _after_ the "/quote" part and it'll read proper.)

I'm sure the brisket-bbq eating locals will chime in.

Thanks for all your advice.  I have much to learn.  (Even how to write on this forum).  Yep lots o brisket consumed round here.

[Bluegoose23]

The first flint lock that I fired was the first one I built. That can sure lead to a bit of nervous excitement. As stated in one of the posts above, cut a small block of wood to use in place of a flint and dry fire your gun for a while, all the time concentrating on follow through. It is not unusual for someone without experience with these things to throw shots all over the place. Best thing to do is burn powder. Eventually your reflexes will become accustomed to all the stuff going on and it will become a little bit easier to keep your shots close together. At this point it is easy to think "I've got this now" and let down your concentration a bit. That is when the odd shot suddenly shows up and you start trying to figure out what is wrong with the gun. Only thing wrong with the gun is its attachment to the ground. I still sometimes realize that I did not see the flash of the prime, which can only mean that my eyes were closed in anticipation.

Remember...Concentration and Follow Through.

Great advice.  Thanks.

[Virginiarifleman]

Don Bruton has a great Video Out, $20.00

[Bluegoose23]

Don Bruton has a great Video Out, $20.00

Thanx!