Chisels for inlays

[Virginiarifleman]

what type of chisels do most use to inlet small inlays and wire inlay ?  and where do most aquire these chisels ? Thanks

[PPatch]

Often chisels are a personal choice and somewhat subjective according to how an individual approaches their work, what they want to accomplish and what feels right to them. Having said that I can give you ideas on what I find useful. Beyond that others here will chime in on their preference. Also this subject has been discussed here on ALR fairly often so there are loads of info in the back-posts as well as tutorials to browse. This holds true especially for wire inlay. For ordinary inlays such as brass or silver I use the following:

- file a slight bevel along the edges of the intended inlay. This bevel is only a few degrees and done by eye, don't overdo it.

- I cut in the outline of the inlay using an exacto knife and light pressure. Others do it differently, a matter of choice. I then go around the inlay with the knife employing a bit more pressure.

- I then relieve around the inside of the exacto outline with a small 60 degree "V" chisel, powering it with a wooden mallet. This cut is just inside the line. So at this point you have your outline and just inside of it a V cut.

- Using a 1/4" very sharp parting chisel, or, a #3 3/16Th inch wide sweep gouge I carefully remove the wood up to the exacto line, this is a pretty shallow cut. I use a 1lb wooden mallet (the same as used with the V tool) to drive the chisel.

- Now remove the wood in the middle of your inlay being careful to keep it as level as possible.

- Coat the back of the inlay with some sort of marking material such as candle or lamp black, lipstick or use a commercially available product such as Jared's blacking. I use lamp black from an oil lamp. Carefully place the inlay into its spot and gently tap it, remove it, note the high spots.

- Remove the high spots with whichever chisel works, either the 1/4 inch parting or the sweep. Try and keep your inlay background level as the background wood supports the inlay and when you use your nails or screws to fasten it you will want that support.

- Repeat as needed to bring the inlay almost to the level of the surface of the wood. You will then fasten it in place and file and sand it level.

So two or three relatively small, extremely sharp, tools are all you need for inlays. Wire inlay is a whole other subject and there are folks here who are far better at that than I. As I said both subjects are covered by former discussions here on ALR.

Good luck - and before you cut in on your rifle practice inlaying on scrap wood a few times to become familiar with the techniques and tools.

dave

ADD: I purchased my chiesels (Ashley IIes brand) mostly from: http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/store/dept/CIL

There are other sources and brands. Buy the full sized tools, not the palm style. The #3 sweep is this one: http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/store/dept/TXQ3-4/item/IL-3.XX

[tallbear]

Virginia

here is a tutorial on inletting I did complete with photo's of my tools. http://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=29664.0

Mitch Yates

[Virginiarifleman]

Thank you Dave & Mitch.im going to try my hand on some scrap wood first as dave mentioned, and ill look at that tutorial to. Thanks Gary

[PPatch]

Scrap wood practice is the way to go until you feel ready. Just remember that the scrap is flat whereas the rifle has rounded surfaces so a bit of adjustment is required and you will have to shape the metal to follow the curve to one degree or another. On gentle curves this does not involve much but on more rounded surfaces, a good example would be a wrist inlay, consideration is due both on how you achieve the curve and the method of beginning the inlay. Plan it all out in your mind before you cut anything. You will get the hang of it pretty quick, it is a skill worth knowing and one of the really fun aspects of building, for me anyway.

Keep your tools sharp and when they begin to "tug" or feel like they want to resist cutting give them a stropping and continue on. Once you've got a keen edge on them a stropping is all they require for quite a while before you must resort to the finest stone you own. They should slice a thin shaving off of hard maple like cutting butter, even endgrain.

Mitch's tutorial is tops, follow it. 

dave

[Ryan McNabb]

what type of chisels do most use to inlet small inlays and wire inlay ?  and where do most aquire these chisels ? Thanks

To answer your question, I have always bought Pfeil brand from Woodcraft and have have always been pleased with their quality.  Buy the long, full size ones, not palm or intermediate length.  I have looked around for a different brand but sometimes the easy option is the best one.

[Virginiarifleman]

Thank you all,you have given me an idea of what I need.