I went to that 'airgraver' website,,,,I've never seen so many different approaches to sharpening a graver. I know Steves template system works well,,just didn't realize there were so many choices.
I always tried to avoid becoming a professional tool sharpener instead of an engraver, so I settled on 1 point for pretty much everything I do.
I sharpened by hand,,no fixture, no template or jig,,just freehand,,for the first 20 years. That's the way I was taught.
I gave in to a GRS powerhone and fixture when I had to turn to carbide points to cut Winchester 21's. Still use the GRS but I'm back to Mo-Max and what ever other non-carbide I happen to have handy.
Still do free hand sharpening on liners and manufactured points. They don't fit as easily into the fixture as the tiny lathe bits do. I like the 3/32 but 1/8 will do.
For someone starting out, sharpening a V shape graver (square graver it's sometimes called) can be frustrating.
I know it was for me.
A simpler way to achieve the same look on the work but with a much easier to sharpen graver point is with a 'flat' graver.
Make a fairly wide faced 'flat' graver. No micro points needed here. A 3/32" or 1/8" width face is fine. You can adjust that as needed later.
Make sure the sides are flat,parallel & 90* with the face.
You won't be using it as a flat to cut (though you can if needed),,but instead be tipping it up on one of it's edges and it becomes a V graver. Sharpen the face to a normal 45* or 50*.
Then put a clearence grind on the bottom of a few degrees by dragging it backwards on the stone. I like to use the diamond sharpening plates. Nothing fancy,,what ever feels comfortable for control and hand clearance.
Place the tool down flat on the stone or plate,,,pick it up a few degrees and drag it backwards. Should be a nice ,clean, even clearance cut done for you.
Much easier to do on a flat graver than a square graver with it's angled point.
No further sharpening is required.
No 'heel' angle is added to the clearance,, just leave as is.
When using, place the flat face onto the surface as if you were going to use the graver as a real flat graver. Then rotate the graver up onto one of it's front face cutting corners. You now have a perfectly good V chisel to engrave with,,,2 actually counting both corners.
One side will feel more comfortable than the other to use most likely. The tool will cut a wide flaring cut to one side or the other depending on which you chose and how far you lay it down into the work.
If you keep it constant,, it'll cut a nice clean V line of even width.
Best thing about it is that it's a very easy tool to make,,easy to sharpen w/o any special equipment and with it you can reproduce most any engraving you may need to do.
