Rebuilt a motor, found a nice lock lube

[frontier gander]

In the process of rebuilding a 258 i6 for our 73 jeep, i came across a killer lube for locks! When installing a new cam and the valve train, you are supposed to use a moly lube for break in. Moly is super slick and allows the cam,lifters, pushrods, etc to break in smoothly and the moly gets embedded into the pores of the steel.

I am currently getting my stuff together for a bear hunt on the 16th and wasn't to happy with liquid wrench lithium grease. I used some of the Crane camss moly lube and holy smokes! I havent found anything slicker than this stuff! I did my triggers where everything rubs, removed my lock, cleaned it well and rubbed a small amount on all rubbing surfaces. My double set triggers are a TON quieter now and SLICK.

I know its a bit messy but i always use a soapy bath followed up by birchwood casey gun scrubber to blast other stuff off and to dry it out as well.

I did my flintlock as well and rubbed a little onto the frizzen spring, SMOOOOOOOTH!

[WadePatton]

yeah, us motorheads just call that "assembly lube". 



...and sometimes we call beer the same thing 

[Hungry Horse]

 Getting Moly is not the problem. Getting rid of it is. I migrates everywhere, and resists removal like termites on steroids. I used it, and found the best way to cure the silvery molly that had crept out of the lock, onto the plate, and oozed from the lock, onto the barrel, was to sell the problem to somebody who didn't care.
 I use Super-Lube now that is a food grade teflon lube that doesn't make a mess.

                   Hungry Horse

[Daryl]

Been using moly grease in my cap and flint lock bearing parts for a number of years now - I really like it, as the water and WD40 blast does not remove it for several 'cleanings'. I purchased mine in a grease-gun tube at the local "Canadian Tire" store.

[T*O*F]

In the process of rebuilding a 258 i6 for our 73 jeep,  When installing a new cam and the valve train, you are supposed to use a moly lube for break in.

Just a word to the wise.  When manufacturers changed over to roller cam technology in the 80's, motor oil was reformulated and the zinc additive required for flat tappet camshafts was eliminated from it.  There followed a rash of cam and lifter problems thereafter.  This is especially critical when installing a new cam and lifters in an older engine because of the high friction rates after you get rid of the break-in oil containing the moly.  You must add a zinc additive with each oil change thereafter.  STP contains the additive or you can buy small bottles of it at auto parts.

[Bob Roller]

TOF,
We have a friend who has a Duesenberg with 32 valves and big flat tappets and he uses a 15w something or other that has  zinc in it and formulated for a diesel.Seems to work OK and he does drive this car.

Bob Roller

[frontier gander]

Got that TOF, comp cams engine break in oil. After that, Rotella.

[davec2]

I have used Brownells Action Lube Plus on all my locks for years.  Only takes a thin film and works fantastic.

[Standing Bear]

My lock surfaces are polished. Never used a lube in 30+ years.

Lost a cam on Chevy 350 to the new oil. Now I run Rotella in my'56 Y Block.
TC

[Vomitus]

I've tried 20-50 Amsoil for V-twins. I just used a small artist's paint brush. Works great with no leakage.

[JTR]

TOF,
We have a friend who has a Duesenberg with 32 valves and big flat tappets and he uses a 15w something or other that has  zinc in it and formulated for a diesel.Seems to work OK and he does drive this car.

Bob Roller

Bob, That diesel blend oil will ruin the compression in that engine if your friend drives it much! Don't trust my opinion, google it and read up on it!
John