3:2:1 oil finish

[ironwolf]

  Anyone remember the recipe for Fred Millers old stock finish?   I seem to recall it was boiled linseed oil, varnish and turpentine, but can't remember the ratios.

   Kevin

[poulain42]

The ratios are V-L-T ,1-2-3. One part varnish,two parts boiled linseed oil, and three parts
turpentine. I have used this on gunstocks and knife handles with excellent results.
 I have run out of varnish and can't find any locally. Any one have a source?

[Curt Larsen]

I use a similar mix on my stocks.  Mine is just equal parts of each though.  I takes about 3-4 coats steel wooled between before the final coat.

[ironwolf]

  Thanks Gentlemen, I believe I had the ratio backwards.  V-L-T  1-2-3,  easy to remember.  Curt, check out Stewart Macdonald luthier supplies for violin varnish.  They also have shellac flakes and other cool finishing stuff as well as some unique tools. 
   stewmac.com

     Kevin W.

[T*O*F]

Anyone remember the recipe for Fred Millers old stock finish?

Which Fred Miller?  There are two of them, the one who inlet barrels and the other one.  The other one's formula was based on spar varnish, BLO, and turps.

[Metalshaper]

An Old Durable Stock Finish

Fred Miller

The finish and method of application is old. Just when it originated, I don't know. Is it period correct? The ingredients (except for the substitution of marine spar rather than just a spar varnish) are period correct, and certainly the method is as well. If you're looking for a "quick and dirty" finish, then read no further. This finish can be applied to finished wood, as long as the finish is an oil base and was not waxed.

Before applying any finish, the stock should be free of dirt and grime, should be "silk" smooth, and should have been stained with an oil based stain. I will assume that you know how to properly prepare the stock, including lifting the grain twice, etc., before applying the stain.

In a glass jar that has a tight lid, mix equal volumes of any marine spar varnish and boiled linseed oil. Add 1/2 volume turpentine. You don't need to mix up a lot of finish, as a small jar will finish more than one rifle. Cut a number of 10"x10" or larger squares of cloth from old 100% white tee-shirts. You'll use these to wipe down the stock. Wipe down the stock with a clean soft white cloth. All applications of the finish are thin, using just enough to cover well. The first 2 or 3 coats should include all inlet areas of the stock. The purpose is to protect it from moisture.

Apply the first coat with your fingers, firmly rubbing the finish into the wood with the grain. Let the stock set for 2 hours. Take one of the folded tee-shirt squares and with the grain, wipe down the stock gently but firmly. Let set for at least 12 hours. Repeat this with 2 more applications. All of the inlet areas of the stock should now be sealed, and application of finish in these areas is complete.

Apply a 4th coat of finish as above, except let it dry for 2 days. Continue the process until you have a smooth, deep, glossy finish. YES! Originals did have a glossy finish! Applying an additional coat of finish every 6 to 12 months will enhance and maintain its durability and beauty indefinitely.

©1997 Fred Miller


Try this..

Respect Always
Metalshaper/Jonathan

[Curt Larsen]

I essentially use metalshaper's technique and the final coast is glossy and looks pretty nice.  I forgot to mention that my mixture uses marine spar varnish as well.  It has more sun blocking stuff in it.  Oh, by the way, when I was building classic guitars years ago I met a violin maker who sealed his maple with egg white before his varnish.  I've never heard of that before.