northwest trade guns

[jasontn]

im getting ready to finish one of these from an in the white kit. i was wondering if the fore end shoud be tapered up to a knife edge like on most rifles and fowlers or if it should be left a little square? also how slim should one of these guns be tru the belly and the rest of the fore end? right now its pretty chunky, i have a little over 1/8 thickness of wood along the top of  fore end. what i have read mostly says the workmanship on these originals wasnt as good as other guns, but i have found little descriptions of the fine details of thier make up.

[Sean]

It sounds like you are basing your ideas off TOW's web page and I would recommend other reading material.

Not square and slim it up.  These guns were quite trim and light.  As far as workmanship goes, a good Barnett, Ketland, or Whatley was a finely built, well shaped gun.  Of course they got a bit chunkier later on like the 1870s, but if you are going for a pre-1840 gun, take the fat off it.  I would also seriously suggest looking at some examples for buttstock architecture and not just the contemporary pieces.  There are often pictures of examples on the online auction houses. 

Sean

[jasontn]

thanks sean. most of what i have read has been on the various forums, and a little on the net. TOW burned me on my last gun i got from them with thier embellished write ups, so i had this one done by a local maker, john anderson.

[northmn]

The NW guns had a variety of problems through the years as some were cheap Belgium imports and so forth.  Locks didn't spark like they should, soft parts and so forth.  A good one would be made slimed down just like any other firearm of the period.  One complaint by the users was that they were too straight, meaning not enough drop.  The natives that bought them were very critical users and let the traders know when they got chintzy and would not trade for the cheap ones.  In other words you should try to make it a quality firearm.  These are about the only original guns of significance I see in my neck of the woods.

DP

[Bill of the 45th]

They are very light guns.  As Troy Roope told me, take it down till it gets scary, then remove a little bit more.  How's it going pard.  I'm gonna be in the market for another of your Tennessee double bags like ya built for me and Leatherbelly.  Hope you put that Elk hide to good use.

Bill

[Pete Allan]

A good friend brought an original French trade gun to my booth at Friendship so I could look at it. It was about 6 feet long and if it weighted over 6 lb. I would have to see it on a scales.
Not at all like the one I built for myself which is like luging a sledge hammer through the woods
What can I say -- live and learn

[elk killer]

just because its a nw gun..dont mean it has to be shabby,,it deserves all the fit and finish of any fine rifle,,
they were thin and most were very well made,,

[jasontn]

thanks guys. i will slim it up some and get her thin. this is just my second gun. it has a walnut stock that is insane hard. good to hear from you bill, that old elk went to really good use, still have some im making a shot flask for this gun from. you get a new gun needin a bag?

[Bill of the 45th]

Yeah, I've gotten a couple new ones plus have built one , and working on one, plus the parts for one are on Packdog's bench, so I might need two or three new bags.  My feminine side comes out, I need a bag to accessorize each gun.  Wouldn't make sense to carry an east Tennessee bag with a Tulle or Trade gun.  No sense moving all those ball bags in different calibers, and thingy's in the bag around.  I'm thinking about having you make a ticking bodied double bag with a pigskin  flap to go with my House Tennessee .44 cal,  but make it somewhat larger,  like a possibles bag.

Bill

[jasontn]

drop me an email with the details of it bud.