Lock problems

[PPatch]

Hi Guys;

I have been attempting to figure out the problem with a RE Davis lock, their Classic Standard Flintlock, close inspection leads me to believe it is beyond my capability to fix.

Problem: lock will not reliably hold half cock nor engage (click in place) at full cock. Sear nose slides right past the notches on the tumbler without engaging, MOST of the time. Plus you can often push the hammer out of engagement when it finally does stop at half cock.

Also, the bridle top screw, the one that goes through the bolster, is a devil to start, hole is a bit off. I have polished the internals, I did not file or change the tumbler notches nor use a file anywhere inside the lock.

I think I need to send it to one of you who does this sort of work regularly.

Thanks

dave

[Don Getz]

I would return the lock to Davis.  They are reputable people and I'm sure they will fix it.  There are many people on the forum
that could find the problem if we had it in hand, but, it's very difficult to fix when all we have is a description of the problem............Don

[PPatch]

I would return the lock to Davis.  They are reputable people and I'm sure they will fix it.  There are many people on the forum
that could find the problem if we had it in hand, but, it's very difficult to fix when all we have is a description of the problem............Don

I'll phone them Don. I purchased it from Tip Curtis so I hope that doesn't make a difference to RE D.

dave

[mattdog]

If you are willing to send it out the first choice should be Davis, who'll probably direct you to mail it to Larry Zorn @ Mold & Gun Shop, Jackson, OH.

[Kenny]

i had a problem with a lock from re davis. sent it to tim , he sent it off to larry zorn and fixed it free of charge, even paid postage. very pleased with the service.

Kenny

[Pete G.]

I had a lock with this same problem. There was a tiny bit of casting slag in the notch and the sear nose was a shade too thick. Together they caused the half cock function to be inconsistent.
Since there is an issue with the bridal also, I would do as the others suggested and let the maker address the problem.

[PPatch]

Update: I had a PM from one of the members here suggesting I try backing the sear screw off a tad as it might be binding the sear. I did, and it was. The lock functions fine now. Now to play with that screw. Next is annealing the frizzen so I can file and polish it.

What a wealth of knowledge ALR is. Love it.

Thanks to all for their input.

dave

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

It is my observation that on most of the commercial locks available today, the sear screw does not bottom on its threads.  So if you turn it in too far, it jams the sear.  I have had some success removing some steel from the inside of the head to allow the screw to go in a little further, to stop against the plate, and not the sear.  With the sear screw bottomed, the screw does not inadvertently back out, and the sear is allowed to rotate freely as it should.

[Jim Kibler]

No need to anneal the frizzen.  Just use abrasive to give it a polish.  Abrasive stones, diamond files, wet dry paper etc. will work fine.  A lot less work in my view.

[Jim Kibler]

I might also add, that it's good to start understanding locks, how they function, shortcomings etc. as most locks need work to function well.  There's always a little tweaking required. 

[Ky-Flinter]

It is my observation that on most of the commercial locks available today, the sear screw does not bottom on its threads.  So if you turn it in too far, it jams the sear. 

This would seem to be a minor thing for the lock makers to correct.  I wonder why they do not do so.  Not all of us have a lathe, after all.

-Ron

[Jim Kibler]

It's a very touchy thing to stop the threads in the exact right spot.  A lathe isn't required for the fix.  Only a drill and file.

[T*O*F]

This would seem to be a minor thing for the lock makers to correct.  I wonder why they do not do so.

Probably because they use commercially available screws, all of which are overthreaded to fit a variety of applications.

If you buy common sized screw blanks from Brownells, you can thread them yourself and even make sure they bottom out in the proper clock position so they can't be overtightened by the ham-fisted gorilla who ultimately ends up with the gun.....compressing the wood in the process causing locks and triggers to bind and drag.

When screws are threaded and holes are tapped, the tap/die can start biting anywhere in a 360 degree circle so each combination can thread in a different final location.  This is known as commercially accepted tolerances.

[Mark Elliott]

I wished I had noticed I could get screw blanks from Brownells.    I just ordered the kit.   I have been making my own screws.   This will save me so much work.  Thanks Dave.

[inlikeflint]

It is my observation that on most of the commercial locks available today, the sear screw does not bottom on its threads.  So if you turn it in too far, it jams the sear.  I have had some success removing some steel from the inside of the head to allow the screw to go in a little further, to stop against the plate, and not the sear.  With the sear screw bottomed, the screw does not inadvertently back out, and the sear is allowed to rotate freely as it should.

Would placing a small bird shot in the screw hole first be enough to keep enough pressure on the screw to prevent backing out?     John

[Acer Saccharum]

A while back I'd observed to Jim Chambers that the sear screw was threaded too high on the shank, which cause the sear to bind when tightened. In response, Chambers provided them with less threads. In many cases, if you go directly to the manufacturer, you will get best results.

[David R. Pennington]

D. Taylor, lock making as I'm beginning to understand it deals with fine tolerances. I do as you stated, thread the screw only so far as you think it needs then trim the underside of the head a little at a time till you get enough clearance.
What do you guys use for lock screw stock when you make screws?

[Mark Elliott]

I am a little ashamed to say that I have on occasion piened a sear screw to hold it in the proper place.      Of course, the best answer here is to make a new screw with the proper amount of threads. 

[PPatch]

No need to anneal the frizzen.  Just use abrasive to give it a polish.  Abrasive stones, diamond files, wet dry paper etc. will work fine.  A lot less work in my view.

omg Jim, that sounds like work! Actually you're right, your remark reminded me that I had some small diamond sharpening stones in various grades. They are doing a good job on the frizzen. I need to go buy some more emery paper though.

Thank you.

dave

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

David:  when I make screws I use whatever round rod stock I can find in the shop, including nails and bridge spikes sometimes.  The mild steel machines well, and when I'm done, I case harden the screws.  I've tried using drill rod, but in it's as purchased state, it's a bugger to machine with the equipment I use.

[Acer Saccharum]

For lock internals, I think a mild steel, cased, is the best material. Heat treatment is simple; heat with casenit or similar, and quench.

O-1 requires hardening AND tempering; a little more attention to the treatment. But it's not bad at all. But the machining is harder. I've used it for tough, high-demand screws, like the frizzen pivot screw. Locks without a frizzen bridle need durable pivot screws. I make these with O-1, and put a shoulder on the body to bottom out on the lock plate. Harden at red in light oil, then draw back to deep blue.

[Turtle]

 I put a little locktite(blue) on the sear screw threads and adjust to allow free movement and minimum play. Works good.
                                        Turtle