Wood removal

[Dphariss]

Its a short video.
I have progressed more and more to using cutting tools over files and rasps. For years I used to use a 1/2 round Surform in a "plane" holder until it broke. I then started using gouges and chisels either pushed as here or driven with a mallet depending on how much wood I was moving.
This is far faster and less labor intensive, as some here already know, than rasping.

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCmHV1pOcZnuv_rIgp0_Fx_w/videos





Dan

[Acer Saccharum]

Dan, nice video! Very crisp photography. Your setup is rock-solid, which helps make accurate cuts. Thanks.

[wattlebuster]

Good video   Make more

[Kermit]

I like your fishtail. Your next video could be on sharpening it. Many have a hard time sharpening gouges.

[davec2]

Dan,

Great video.  I have taken to using chisels and a miniature spoke shave for most stock removal.  Also, I have recently been really impressed with the speed and smoothness of stock removal (and no tear out even on very curly maple) I get with MicroPlane tools.  If you haven't used one, I can highly recommend them.  Not expensive and they cut wood very fast and smoothly in any direction.  I hardly ever use a conventional rasp any more.  Available a lot of places including Amazon.  They also come in various shapes.

[smart dog]

Hi,
Great video Dan.  Can you show us that technique on some hard sugar maple?

dave

[Dphariss]

Dan, nice video! Very crisp photography. Your setup is rock-solid, which helps make accurate cuts. Thanks.

Surprisingly its done with my Panasonic pocket digital rested in a tool box drawer. The Walnut cuts really nice too.
I found three chisels at a garage sale two about 3/4 wide and this big one, one is a socket type Simmons "Keencutter" the other two are Eric Anton Berg Eskilstura Sweden with a Shark logo under the three line radius stamped text. Once sharpened the Swedish chisels especially were worth WAY more than I paid.
Dan

[WadePatton]

... I get with MicroPlane tools.  If you haven't used one, I can highly recommend them. ... They also come in various shapes.

wait! i have one of those but it's cleverly disguised as a zester...hmmm.

[davec2]

Wade,

Same thing...the zester cuts on the pull stroke and the wood rasp on the push.  The new ones made for wood working are reversible so you can cut either way.  Try the zester.  It will work GREAT !

[Dphariss]

Hi,
Great video Dan.  Can you show us that technique on some hard sugar maple?

dave

The fish tail was a little dull for maple but I still got a "contour" that was pretty clean cut using a different gouge. If I were really serious I think I would use one of the smaller gouges this would reduce the pressure needed to make a groove or contour. The flat made a shiny cut. Maple is harder to photograph at least with the light I had.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EcUGMZdX6HU&feature=youtu.be

Dan

[bjmac]

Dan, tried the next video, but it came up as "Sorry, Private"?
Is that an indication of my rank or my status?

[gumboman]

I found the video to be Private also. And the link to Youtube for the first video is broken. I could not view it as nothing is there at the link. Would like to see it however.

[kaintuck]

Dan,
Just what I have been doing and with what Dave uses...my Shinto rasp is used to get some proud wood off then spoke shaves and planes.....watch the ends tho! They can chip off!

Marc n tomtom

[Calaloo]

I would like to put forth a method I have been using for some years to remove wood in a very controlled and efficient manner. In using Nortons 3X sand paper I was amazed at how long it lasted. I subsequently cut some strips of the 60 grit and glued them to strips of wood. I now use grits down to 120 and have several widths. It is amazing how long this stuff lasts. No other paper I have tried even comes close. I glue the paper to the strip with Pliobond cement and remove the worn out strip by carefully heating with a propane torch and it just peels off  although I'm sure a heat gum would do as well. Make a rasp or two using the 60 grit and you will be convinced.
Bill

[Pete G.]

Walnut is beautiful wood to work with, but if using this technique on maple, especially that curly stuff that we all love so much, one must be EXTREMELY vigilant of grain runout, even when working cross grain. I was using a similar technique once and pulled out an area about the size of a pencil eraser. I caught it in time and managed to glue it back in and procede normally. However, after finishing I could still find it even if the eventual owner could not.

Now I have gone to spokeshaves and a Vixen file. Open up the throat of the shave (which is really sort of like a chisel with a handle on each side) so that it takes a pretty big bite. The Vixen is a really aggressive cutter, but leaves a smooth surface. You must be careful of this.

[P.W.Berkuta]

Good video Dan. I've learned a long time ago that the best way for me to shape a stock was with planes, spoke shaves, draw knives, chisels and gouges. Works better for me than rasps and files. I do use a file where it will work the best but I will finish and blend with a scraper - thanks for the video. I also spend a few hours on the water stone getting the chisels and gouges ready for the work at hand. You can't pair off the wood and leave a slick surface with a dull or semi-dull tool so it must be razor sharp to start with. 

[Dphariss]

The second video should be OK I think I failed to hit all the buttons?
If not let me know.

Dan

[Thom]

Yes Dan. It works. I have several very shallow gouges that I have always used for this work. I'll give my chisels another look.
Thom

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

Dan, you were getting too much flex in the maple board you were cutting, which takes away much of the effectiveness of the chisel.

[kaintuck]

Dan, you were getting too much flex in the maple board you were cutting, which takes away much of the effectiveness of the chisel.

At this point, a nice wood mallet will save useing the hand muscles.......I tap my way thru stuff these days....less Advil need that evening....

Marc n tomtom

[Tom Currie]

Dan, I liked the full sized Last of the Mohicans poster in the background. I use a spoke shave for most rough wood removal today , I think it is is more forgiving than an chisel or gouge ( makes thinner cuts )

[Dphariss]

Dan, you were getting too much flex in the maple board you were cutting, which takes away much of the effectiveness of the chisel.

I know, I should have took some off the blank hanging on the wall but this was handy and I grabbed it its a pretty hard piece of sugar maple  and its a lot stronger than walnut but will a stiffer . The big flat cut it really nice but that big fishtail was getting dull. The smaller gouge cut it pretty good.

Dan

[J Henry]

 Microplane well now off on a new tool search.got to have a set of those....

 Remember:
         When you talk, you are only repeating what you already know,,,But when you listen you may learn something new,,,,
                                   Dalai Lama

[Dphariss]

Dan, I liked the full sized Last of the Mohicans poster in the background. I use a spoke shave for most rough wood removal today , I think it is is more forgiving than an chisel or gouge ( makes thinner cuts )

The advantage to the Gouge is that in places like behind the cheek piece I can take off a LOT of wood quickly if I drive it with a mallet. But this also requires care. Making a small cut or two to find the grain flow for there is no hair loss for the user.
I have another of those posters in a tube someplace. This was the only place in the house or shop that was big enough for it and its been there since back in the 90s I think.

Dan