Mr Flintlock's lube

[dave gross]

After 5 years of hunting and occasional offhand plinking I decided to see what my rifle would do with serious attention to loads, lube, patching, etc.  I built my rifle #45 in 2009 using a John Getz 46" 50 caliber barrel which was made to the "Frank House" pattern....the rifle doesn't conform to any "school" but pleases my eye...and I reckon that's good enough.  I always thought that pie plates at 70 yards were a good test for arms and eyes in their 8th decade and the rifle was always able to deliver.
A few days ago I fired 65 rounds using my normal hunting load........490 swaged ball, .020 oxyoke precuts over 70 grains of 3f Swiss and primed with Null B.  The patches were well lubed with Wonderlube and had been kept in my hunting pouch for a long time.....perhaps long enough to degrade the quality of the cloth.  The groups were just so-so and new patching was tried with some improvement......perhaps 3-4 inches at 40 yards shooting offhand...nothing to brag about fine for thick cover here in downeast Maine.  While digging thru the shooting box I happened on a bottle of Mr. Flintlock's Lube so thought I would give it a try.  Just three drops on a precut patch with the rest of the load remaining the same and the groups improved to the point that I could not believe it was me doing the shooting. I honestly have never in many years of blackpowder shooting had results like this...round after round in the ten-ring and if one did stray a bit I could call the shot....precisely where the front sight said it would be. So now I must do a bit more work with the rifle....the load may need tweaking but I can't imagine that it will shoot much better..but
the patch will be lightly dampened with Mr.  Flintlock's lube. If   this stuff is a reincarnation of the Lehigh Valley lube I can see why many lamented LHV passing from the scene. It's the best stuff I've tried.

Dave Gross

[C. Cash]

Good deal.  I have some I am waiting to try.....been using tracks mink oil to sight in and develop a hunting load with in the new 54 and look forward to switching over to Mr. Flintlocks.  I have no doubt it will shoot like the old Lehigh Valley Lube, which was excellent.  I am always amazed at the lack of any fouling buildup with this lube and accuracy as you note. 

[Mad Monk]

Dave,

If you know how to look at the pH of the lube or know somebody who can check pH you might want to do so.

I am reminded of when Ox-Yoke took over the original Lehigh Valley lube that was originally produced by Tom.  When Ox-Yoke took it over they did not understand the chemistry of modifying the tall oil that formed the base of the lube.  When Tom produced it the pH was fairly neutral.  Then when I looked at the Ox-Yoke version it was highly alkaline.  Enough that it would quickly damage an oil-based gun stock finish.  Literally took the boiled oil finish off my Schimmel.  They used a very strong caustic and had an excess of it in the lube.  Which then turning the boiled linseed oil into a sticky soap that easily wiped off the stock.

I had found something similar in the Lyman Butch's Bore Lube.  Excessively caustic.  When a liquid is high in caustic (high pH) it will feel very slippery between the fingers.  But it can be death to any boiled oil finish or varnish based on a boiled oil or alkyd oil.

Bill K.

[Daryl]

Good note, Monk.  I have some strips I got from the pharmacy - I will check them out. I have a bottle of the new/original LHV formula and the new FL lube, along with some Shenendoah lube.

Now, as to taking the finish off - Wipeout has a spray can of foaming Black Powder solvent that when trying it in my .32 Squirrel rifle without removing the barrel from the stock, a bit got past the toothpick in the vent, and a drip ran down the butt stock to the plate - it left a whitish line from lock mortice to the butt - removing not only oil but the stain as well. 

That stuff would make a good oil and stain remover, that's for sure, it it didn't ruin the wood for new applications of finish - jury's out.
I went back to the tried and true- cool water, flushing the bore.

[Standing Bear]

I'm almost thru my first bottle of Mr. Flintlock's lube.  It works OK but I have done as well or almost as well with saliva, mink oil, Hoppe's 9+ and others.  To me it's expensive for such a small gain.
TC

[Standing Bear]

From Daryl: "Now, as to taking the finish off - Wipeout has a spray can of foaming Black Powder solvent that when trying it in my .32 Squirrel rifle without removing the barrel from the stock, a bit got past the toothpick in the vent, and a drip ran down the butt stock to the plate - it left a whitish line from lock mortice to the butt - removing not only oil but the stain as well".

I won several bottles of Black Solve back in the day.  Used it a lot for cleaning as it was paid for and a 4 oz bottle made a quart.  Then I got one of those pale streaks down the stock of my Brit made Parker Hale.  No more Black Solve.
TC

[George Sutton]

Dave,

If you know how to look at the pH of the lube or know somebody who can check pH you might want to do so. quote]



Mr. Flintlock's has a neutral PH and does not contain any petroleum products.

Centershot   AKA   Mr. Flintlock

[George Sutton]

When Lehigh Valley was first produced it was being made in someone's kitchen. After it took off they hired a chemical company in Syracuse, N.Y. to produce it for them in bulk. That is when they started using bulk tall oil. That is the formula that I believe OxYoke has.

When it was being made in the kitchen they were using over the counter products. One of those products was discontinued by the manufacturer, so they had to find a substitute.

The original formula with the discontinued product was given to me by one of the original partners..

When I looked at making the lube I contacted the manufacturer and asked them if they had any old stock and I was told no, but one of the company reps told me where I could buy the stuff. I had to import it because it is not made in this country.

My formula is as close to the original as possible.

PH was one of my major concerns. The PH is neutral.

If you have any other questions. I will be happy to answer them.

Centershot   AKA   Mr. Flintlock

[dave gross]

I used three drops of Mr. Flintlock's lube on each patch.....just enough to dampen it slightly. I didn't wipe between shots....the humidity was high that day so the small amount of lube was enough to allow comfortable loading. Never had any running over the stock finish though there was certainly some on my fingers......I didn't note any effect on the finish.My constant applications of Renaissance Wax may offer some protection. I am unaware of the composition of the Wonderlube so can only comment on the improved consistency of shot placement when using Mr. Flintlock's lube in MY rifle. Others may have different results but I consider the small cost of a comparison trial to be well worth the price.  I have no axe to grind or an ox to be gored...just relating my own experience with this product. 

Dave Gross
Downeast in Maine

[Daryl]

George- I've still got the bottle you sent me, but have not tried it yet - I will someday and get back to you.  The odour of your product is indeed different from the LHV-, now being lemony and the other pine odour. The Shenandoah lube has the same odour as LHV.  I have all three for a test. When my knee feels like spending a day at the range, I've just the rifle to try them in.

[Nit Wit]

I use it to clean up after shooting black powder. To me that's where it really shines!
Nit Wit

[smokinbuck]

I don't use Mr Flintlock for lubing my patches but on my table gun I wipe with it after every shot, one wet patch and one dry. At the end of the day I find cleaning to be a lot faster and easier. I still use pre lubes for patching the ball.
Mark

[Mad Monk]

When Lehigh Valley was first produced it was being made in someone's kitchen. After it took off they hired a chemical company in Syracuse, N.Y. to produce it for them in bulk. That is when they started using bulk tall oil. That is the formula that I believe OxYoke has.

When it was being made in the kitchen they were using over the counter products. One of those products was discontinued by the manufacturer, so they had to find a substitute.

The original formula with the discontinued product was given to me by one of the original partners..

When I looked at making the lube I contacted the manufacturer and asked them if they had any old stock and I was told no, but one of the company reps told me where I could buy the stuff. I had to import it because it is not made in this country.

My formula is as close to the original as possible.

PH was one of my major concerns. The PH is neutral.

If you have any other questions. I will be happy to answer them.

Centershot   AKA   Mr. Flintlock

Thanks for the clarification.  You are one of a few.  After Tom disappeared there were a number of attempts to duplicate the original lube.  All fell short of what Tom and his buddy put out before Ox-Yoke got it.  Good deal on the pH.

Mad Monk

[jamesthomas]

 Are there any stores you can buy Mr. Flintlocks lube at?

[mjm46@bellsouth.net]

I been using it for a while now and like it very much. I really haven't noticed much of a change in my shooting accuracy. But for loading it excels. I also use if for field cleaning after shooting at the range. It makes final cleaning at home much easier.

[Dr. Tim-Boone]

I have found exactly the same as Micah. Used it yesterday after taking the big doe and left a sloppy patch of it in the bore until I clean the gun thoroughly today back at home.  Accuracy for minute of 125# whitetail was perfect...

Actually the patch in the gun at the time had been prelubed with Mr. Flintlock a few weeks ago and was dry when I loaded before the hunt. 

Works abot the same as spit for me at the range but sure field cleans well.

[dave gross]

Finally managed to wrangle some litmus test strips from the pharmacy so took a reading on Mr. Flintlock's famous lube on the advice of Mad Monk.  Tested exactly as Centershot posted.....exactly neutral....right between Very Slightly Acidic and Very Slightly Alkaline.  Guess I will be able to sleep at night if I leave the rifle loaded for a few days during deer hunting season....and hunting will well describe it here in this part of Maine..very few deer in this game management district...the local poachers and timber harvesters have  pretty well thinned the herd....only antlered deer can be "harvested" locally and I haven't seen one of those in a couple of years.  "Harvested" is a word substituted for "killed" as an act of appeasement to the Bambi lovers who have flooded in here recently.

Dave Gross in downeast Maine

[stude283]

So some of you are using this as a patch lube for hunting and leaving in bore for a few days? Since its water based it would seem like it would either dry out and/or cause rust. I thought MR. Flintlocks was not recommended as a hunting lube.

[HAWKEN]

[the local poachers and timber harvesters have  pretty well thinned the herd....only antlered deer can be "harvested" locally and I haven't seen one of those in a couple of years.  "Harvested" is a word substituted for "killed" as an act of appeasement to the Bambi lovers who have flooded in here recently.

Dave Gross in downeast Maine
[/quote]

Dave, When I taught Hunter Safety, they told us to use the term "harvested" because they were a renewable resource.  Now, I will have to agree that they have to be killed in order to harvest them, otherwise, they would baulk, LOL.........Robin

[dave gross]

So some of you are using this as a patch lube for hunting and leaving in bore for a few days? Since its water based it would seem like it would either dry out and/or cause rust. I thought MR. Flintlocks was not recommended as a hunting lube.

I don't know that Mr. Flintlock's lube is water based or not but I have left spit-patched RB's in rifles for extended periods in the past without serious consequences...I don't agonize over it....can't find any serious rust rings in any of my barrels.  I guess one should use mink oil or similar to insure against oxidation. Just as long as the "grease" doesn't liquify and leach into the powder charge.....I have had that happen once or twice..shot sounds like a wet firecracker.
Dave

[George Sutton]

So some of you are using this as a patch lube for hunting and leaving in bore for a few days? Since its water based it would seem like it would either dry out and/or cause rust. I thought MR. Flintlocks was not recommended as a hunting lube.

Hi Stude, I don't know where you got your information but my lube is not water based nor does it say anywhere that you can't use it as a hunting lube or leave it in the bore overnight.

Because it's a liquid it certainly is better adapted to bench shooting. I carry it in a small spray bottle when I'm hunting.

All I can ask of anyone is that they try it before they criticize it.

Thanks,

George

[Frizzen]

I know I love my bottle. Hope to see you next June George to get some more.

[Darkhorse]

Haven't tried Mr. Flintlocks version but I do have some of the Original version of LHV hoarded. The LHV is the only lube that shoots well and loads easily in my Rice .40 cal "B" profile barrel. This rifle I built for Turkey hunting and use the LHV for hunting. It will dry out but still shoots good. Personally I'd rather use something else for hunting.
A few years ago I was hunting a large lease and was camping for a few days. The first morning I loaded fresh and kept the flinter loaded for several days as no shot at a gobbler presented itself. While breaking camp one of my hunting buddies asked if I would shoot the rifle as no one there had ever seen a flintlock fired. I obliged, and shortly there was a paper plate with a BBQ thumbprint dead center hanging on a pine tree. The shot touched the edge of the spot and everybody crowded to the target amazed that a flintlock could shoot that good. I looked over my shoulder and saw a blaze starting on the ground.
It was the dry patch. The woods were real dry and I figure the dry patch was a smouldering ember and started the fire. The patch itself was mostly burned by the time I got the fire out. That made quite an impression on me as I can imagine walking past a smouldering patch that would flame up after I was gone and set the woods on fire.
When I started BP hunting in '76, crisco was my hunting lube and worked great. It still works great. Wonder lube is OK. Mink Oil works good also. Point is, none of these dry out.
For all my general shooting I still use the LHV but now only in my .40 as it really likes it. My .54 is not choosy so I can save the LHV for the .40. But for hunting loads I will no longer use a lube that will dry out and leave a patch that might burn.

[Daryl]

Darkhorse, Neetsfoot oil and Track's Mink oil work very well for me, in all my guns- for a hunting lube.