I never use any abrasive on stained maple except it very extreme cases (so far 1 on a brass suppository gun) then its like 2000 grit wet or dry. Using abrasives will generally result in the edges being white from the abrasives. Don't let the finish dry on the wood. Leave it on for a time then wipe off the excess or put it on really thin.
Remember that back in the day gunsmiths did not use finishes that were as thin as water. Really thin finishes are a PITA to use and add a lot of time to the finishing process. They are, generally 65-80% evaporating solvets, toxic solvents. As a result I tend to use a soft (by modern or musical instrument standards) linseed oil varnish cut with real Turpentine. On hard maple this is usually a 2 coat finish. Seal coat and one sometimes two coats of a heavier bodied finish. Since these finishes are high in solids they fill better, much, much better even in really thin coats dotted on and spread with the hand until it will spread no farther.
I think this is a seal coat and two coats of finish. I only did the extra coat the buttstock up the the tail of the lock, decided it was not needed and left the rest of the stock with only one coat after the seal coat. Its nicely shiney. This rifle has been used in matches for about 3 years as pictured here.
Chambers finish is a good alternative according a friend of mine.
The heavier oil will get into the pours of the wood even in really thinly spread coats and fill them better/faster than the petroleum solvent rich modern finishes will.
People need to look to the past more. Newer is not better when stock finish is concerned if you want the gun to look right. Any cured high Linseed content finish with develop a shine from handling unless its raw oil then it will be duller. Why the Military used it in the wood stock era of the 20th c.
Dan
