The Virtually Indestructible Ramrod

[chrisdefrance]

“The Virtually Indestructible Ramrod” from Rob Brandt

   For some time I’ve carried a ramrod made of “ Delrin” which works well, but it just does not have the look or feel that most of us want or require “HC”, and the rods that I have do not fit the rifle so I carried separate from the gun. Just another piece to keep up with while your hunting is what all of us want.

While looking for another rod to replace an old one, I happened upon an interesting idea, “ The Virtually Indestructible Ramrod “.  The rod is a wooden ramrod with a steel core, which has the ramrod tips threaded on each end. One end is normally a 8-32 thread and the other is 10-32. This allows almost every accessory to be used on one end or the other.

So I ordered one, I have got the new ramrod in and it does look great. These guys are good to work with.
I’ve been very impressed and the rod fits and looks just like the old wooden ramrod that came with the rifle.

Contact Rob Brandt. Good people to work with.

www.periodramrod.com

I saw the old post that was 120 days old and in Accoutrements, so I placed this in Gun Building, considering that this may be the ramrod someone might want to buy for a build.

[bob in the woods]

Are they tapered ?

[chrisdefrance]

Yes, They can be made to any size requested. Take a look at the Rod Sizing Chart that they have in under Order on the website. I would make a separate workup describing what size you want with the specific lengths and diameter at those length's as a backup.

The rod I just purchased was a straight 0.334" hickory rod with brass fittings either end. I wanted the 10/32" thread on the muzzle end. The 8/32" thread needed to be a brass cap that was no larger than the 0.334" to enter the pipes. It is a great looking rod.


Virtually Indestructible Ramrod
R.D. Brandt & Assoc. Inc.
2504 Commonwealth Ave.
San Diego, CA 92104

Phone: 619-283-6659        info@periodramrod.com

[Naphtali]

I have always had a "thing" about using soft faced ramrods and loading rods. I believe - rightly or wrongly??? - that softer materials allow grit and/or abrasive residue to embed. And sooner rather than later embedded grit will abrade I.D. of barrel. I know in my head that a bazillion muzzleloading rifle shooters for hundreds of years have used wood and plastic rods without issue. But when I consider trying one, I get heartburn.

I'm finished worthless whining. I'm having my final rifles built. Ramrods I intended to have made from fluted darkened stainless steel while hoping the overall effect would be pleasing or, at worst, neutral.

From information previously entered, these reïnforced ramrods can be "collared" with any wood? Does there exist a wood so hard and steel-like that it would be satisfactory substitute for all-steel? I know just enough about wood to know I don't know much.

[WadePatton]

... reïnforced ramrods can be "collared" with any wood? Does there exist a wood so hard and steel-like that it would be satisfactory substitute for all-steel?

Osage Orange is the toughest thing 'round here, but I've yet to get a good specimen to make splits from.  Won't stop me from looking.  That or Persimmon (North America's Ebony) will likely make my rod for the 30.

OTOH, I'm not likely to load enough shots with an encrusted enough rod for it to ever make a difference.  That's another good reason to have a FEW rifles to spread the shots around and thereby get less wear on each one individually.  

 (tell her that's how you _feel_, women dig "feelings") 

[Pete G.]

I have always had a "thing" about using soft faced ramrods and loading rods. I believe - rightly or wrongly??? - that softer materials allow grit and/or abrasive residue to embed. And sooner rather than later embedded grit will abrade I.D. of barrel. I know in my head that a bazillion muzzleloading rifle shooters for hundreds of years have used wood and plastic rods without issue. But when I consider trying one, I get heartburn.

I'm finished worthless whining. I'm having my final rifles built. Ramrods I intended to have made from fluted darkened stainless steel while hoping the overall effect would be pleasing or, at worst, neutral.

From information previously entered, these reïnforced ramrods can be "collared" with any wood? Does there exist a wood so hard and steel-like that it would be satisfactory substitute for all-steel? I know just enough about wood to know I don't know much.

The Bevel Brothers did a ramrod test for "Muzzle Blasts" a couple of years ago. The ramrod that caused the worst wear on rifling was steel. Wood was one of the best.

[woodman]

Has anyone tried locust? In our logging (southern Indiana) we occasionally find good stands of this tough stuff and our Amish crew use it to make wagon beds and some fence posting. It is as indestructible as any wood I've encountered.

[WadePatton]

Has anyone tried locust? In our logging (southern Indiana) we occasionally find good stands of this tough stuff and our Amish crew use it to make wagon beds and some fence posting. It is as indestructible as any wood I've encountered.

I very well may when i can find a good piece (straight/hole-free enough) to split.  I burn a lot of it.  It's very rot resistant, burns hot after being on forest floor for 20 years.  Love to saw some into boards too...someday. Black Locust that is, Honeylocust is different breed.

[Turtle]

I all my personal shooting muzzleloaders I have a thin wall brass tubing ramrod. They are  light, strong. stiff, not slippery, and period correct material for NMLRA shoots. I know, I haven't seen an original gun with a brass ramrod either.
                                                                 Turtle

[woodman]

I have kept some of the good locust boards and will attempt some rod-making at the numerous cabinetry shops in our community (yes, the 'black locust' indeed). It does burn similar to coal in the stove and I can't see any reason it wouldn't qualify for ramrods other than it is hard on blades and equipment - as the chains and blades on our saws and mills will attest.

[Jerry V Lape]

The reason it is hard on your saws is probably the same reason not to use it for ramrods.  It is supposed to have a high silicon content according to some reference I read sometime ago.  Has anyone else seen similar information as I would not want to perpetrate an false report.  Otherwise I agree black locust is strong stuff.  I clearly remember clearing about half an acre of it that was about 2 to 5 inches in diameter.  Resorted to chaining it out with a tractor (use a chain longer than the tallest tree or you will get raked by the top of the tree).  Don't ask!

[JBJ]

Check out the following for details about black locust; http://www.wood-database.com/lumber-identification/hardwoods/black-locust/.  It is rather notorius for dulling tools because of extractives including silica. The core of the log will have the highest levels of extractives and the outer sap wood the lowest. It seems reasonable that a ramrod made of the this wood could damage a barrel with prolonged use. ?
J.B.

[WadePatton]

eh, just jacket it with steel...oh wait

 

[D. Bowman]

I've been in the tree buisness for over thirty years and cut hundreds if not thousands of black locust trees . They do not dull a saw any faster than any other tree. I have also made ramrods from locust and osage. Both work very well however the locust would not take stain very well and remained light in color. The osage naturaly darkened to a nice brown color.

[WadePatton]

I've been in the tree buisness for over thirty years and cut hundreds if not thousands of black locust trees . They do not dull a saw any faster than any other tree. I have also made ramrods from locust and osage. Both work very well however the locust would not take stain very well and remained light in color. The osage naturaly darkened to a nice brown color.

Yeah I agree but have learned to just hush my mouth when folks complain about cutting locust and osage___but that sharp tools work every time.  Good to know about the locust and stain. YES i love that dark orange/brown color that osage ages into.  It's quite "opposite" the yellow/green of fresh cut.

[Acer Saccharum]

Wood carries grit, just perfect for lapping your bore out.

For the occasional shoot, or hunting, the wooden ramrod is right.

But if you're frequently shooting many shots, say, a match, at a range, etc, you want to avoid touching the bore with the rod. A steel range rod with a muzzle protector is one way to keep your bore and muzzle pristine.

Keep your wooden rod for the woods. Plastic and fiberglas rods are also grit magnets.

[whitebear]

You could make a ramrod of locust, to replace the original one that cane with the rifle,  Use for hunting as it would not get a great deal of use like a stainless rod that you would carry to a shooting match.

[DutchGramps]

Perhaps a silly question but how do they put that steel core in the wood...
A VERY long drill ? Sandwiched between two halves of wood ? Curious mind wants to know...

[J Henry]

  Split the rod blank  then channel out a slot the lenght of it for the steel rod ,,put ht esteel rod in the channel, glue the two pieces of the rod blank back together and work it down with a rasp/draw knife sandpaper till it is the correct size,,

[Captchee]

 Yep J hennery has it right .
I at one time also made and sold metal core rods . They are not hard to make .
 The first ones I made I  cut a V channel in the two halves  then glued   the halves with the rod in the center . Later  after  the local furniture factory  let me use their commercial wood welder  I began cutting  just a shallow channel in each half . Welding the   to halves together . After which I would coat the rod with   matching  weld glue  and wood flower . Then use their press to  slide the rod through the  blanks .
 After that , just a couple passes through the time save  and the rods were ready to finish sand ..

 I have never made  a rod from Osage . But I have from Black locus and Russian olive  . I did not have much luck with the Olive .
 With the Locus , it helps to have a  hardwood  chain on your saw  and keep it sharp . The locas will then cut  just like any other wood ..
 If its been dead for some time then it can be very hard . But it will still cut  with a sharp blade and a well oiled bar

[bob in the woods]

I have been using ram rods I make from ash, split out into blanks.  I honestly don't have a problem with broken rods.

[pushboater]

I've never tried it but I read that you can take your hickory rods and put them in a length of PVC pipe and then fill the pipe up with used motor oil mixed with a little kerosene.  Cap the pipe and let them sit and soak up the mixture for about 6 months.  when you pull them out to use them they'll be extremely flexable and wear like iron.  Like I say, I haven't tried it.  When you pull one out you simply replace it with a new one and you've always got a ready supply handy.  Something about the oil getting between the fibers of the wood.

[bob in the woods]

If the rod is worked from a split, rather than sawn, you shouldn't have any run out. I have never ever broken a rod.
I can't see breaking one in the future either, since I don't bend them into circles, or otherwise abuse them. The secret is of douse, finding good split blanks. A lot of the ram rod blanks I've seen have some run out.

[woodman]

I've been in the tree buisness for over thirty years and cut hundreds if not thousands of black locust trees . They do not dull a saw any faster than any other tree. I have also made ramrods from locust and osage. Both work very well however the locust would not take stain very well and remained light in color. The osage naturaly darkened to a nice brown color.

Perhaps like so many things in life it is all about perception. Our crew and sawmills seem to 'think' there is a difference. All our big locust is on sand and maybe that plays into the equation. And as I for some vain reason do not like the looks of a light-colored ramrod - reckon I will scrap the venture and stick with a stick of hickory. Thanks for the info.

[frogwalking]

I recently bought an assortment of hickory rod blanks from Steve Bailey.  Steve is in the wood business, hickory handles, I think.  He used to split ramrod blanks and make them this way.  he has since learned to cut relatively thin boards with the grain, lay out his rods using the best boards, and saw the blanks from these materials.  None of the rod blanks Steve sent me have any appreciable run out, and all are useable, including some 5/16 rods.  I have been shooting muzzzleloading guns of all kinds since the mid '60s, and have never broken a ( properly made) hickory rod.  For bench work, I now use a stainless steel rod with a muzzle protector.  Well made, tapered hickory rods work fine for field work.