Author Topic: Repairing brass tack holes (Read 14370 times)

trentOH · « **on:** December 12, 2014, 06:36:10 AM »

I am looking at a rifle for sale which has had a number of brass tacks added to the stock. Can anyone advise on how best to remove tacks, and mitigate the damage of brass tacks? Thanks. I think I can hear a collective Hmmmm now.

Acer Saccharum · « **Reply #1 on:** December 12, 2014, 06:45:42 AM »

Is there denting from the head of the tack, staining under the head?

Depends if it's a valuable antique or a modern gun on the treatment for the 'repair', if indeed it is a repair.

JTR · « **Reply #2 on:** December 12, 2014, 06:56:10 AM »

Well, I can tell you how Not to do it, from experience many years ago.
Don't think you'll get away with just filling the holes with wood putty, as it makes a perfect little black dot the second you stain it. Also, don't even consider using wood toothpicks as you'll get the same black dot, it just takes a little longer. Nor use any wood, where the end grain of the wood is at the surface level,,, same ol' black dot.

One way to do it is to first fill most of the hole with a filler (toothpick) leaving it about 1/16" below the surface of the stock. Then find a piece of wood to match that of the stock, get the grain running the same direction as that of the rifles, then cut tiny pieces to plug into the tack holes, being careful to maintain the correct grain direction. Those you can make about as invisible as possible!

PS, If the tack head has left a mark you can try to steam that out or sand it out if it's a newish gun. But you'll be stuck with a lot of refinishing then.

John

trentOH · « **Reply #3 on:** December 12, 2014, 07:04:03 AM »

Quote from: Acer Saccharum on December 12, 2014, 06:45:42 AM

Is there denting from the head of the tack, staining under the head?

Depends if it's a valuable antique or a modern gun on the treatment for the 'repair', if indeed it is a repair.

I'm working off of photographs for now. The rifle is a Dixie Mountain Rifle, so maybe 20-40 years old, and a cherry stock.

Mike Brooks · « **Reply #4 on:** December 12, 2014, 04:19:02 PM »

No way I know of to fix tack holes. Live with it or find another gun to buy.

Jerry V Lape · « **Reply #5 on:** December 12, 2014, 04:50:32 PM »

Where are the tacks on the stock? Is it possible they could be covered with an appropriate brass inlay or less obtrusive individual wood inlays. Would they be a little more attractive if the tack holes were filled with silver, brass, white bone or black horn dots finished flush with the surface of the stock?

Dphariss · « **Reply #6 on:** December 12, 2014, 05:18:43 PM »

Quote from: Mike Brooks on December 12, 2014, 04:19:02 PM

No way I know of to fix tack holes. Live with it or find another gun to buy.

Exactly.

Dan

WKevinD · « **Reply #7 on:** December 12, 2014, 05:33:40 PM »

No way to fix the holes but I have pulled the tacks, cut heads off and replaced the posts in the holes, filed flush and refinished the stock. The pattern is still there and if the posts are brass you can dab them with brass black.

Pete G. · « **Reply #8 on:** December 12, 2014, 07:51:31 PM »

Since it is a commercial production built piece I would not spend any time at all messing with the tacks. Either accept it as is or pass it up completely, and always remember this in case you are ever tempted to add tacks to any gunstock.

flinchrocket · « **Reply #9 on:** December 12, 2014, 07:57:36 PM »

Silver pins in the holes with a little incised carving would look better than brass tacks, ( personal
Opinion ). I'd pass it up if I didn't like it.

bgf · « **Reply #10 on:** December 12, 2014, 10:16:48 PM »

I'm not real sure, but you might be able to swell the wood back into place somewhat with water or steam,since theoretically the tacks don't cut or remove fibers so much as displace them. I f i had to try it, I'd swell the fibers to make the holes as small and irregular as possible, then patch the worst one with slivers to break up any obvious pattern and use a thicker finish with some tint to fill in what's left.

Captchee · « **Reply #11 on:** December 13, 2014, 05:45:33 PM »

what BFG said should work . if they don’t swell all the way , I would then treat the remaining hole as just as a worm hole . Chances are the stock could use a little slimming anyway , so once you get the finish off , save some of the sanding dust . Some where on here

? Mike brooks did a tutorial on how he fills worm holes using wood dust and BL.
Do it right and you will have to look very close

Mike Brooks · « **Reply #12 on:** December 13, 2014, 05:59:18 PM »

Quote from: Captchee on December 13, 2014, 05:45:33 PM

what BFG said should work . if they don’t swell all the way , I would then treat the remaining hole as just as a worm hole . Chances are the stock could use a little slimming anyway , so once you get the finish off , save some of the sanding dust . Some where on here ? Mike brooks did a tutorial on how he fills worm holes using wood dust and BL.
Do it right and you will have to look very close

Wasn't me. I only use wood dust to make interesting piles on my bench.

Dave B · « **Reply #13 on:** December 14, 2014, 12:48:34 AM »

A technique shown to me by Jack Rouse of Kentucky for patching intentional holes in wood involved using a router and a pattern jig. With another pattern you produced a plug that matched that first routed hole. Then just glue it in place, file it down flush and refinish it. Could use the same technique to cut a plug of wood from the barrel channel using a small plug cutter. Slice off desired depth plug use a brad point bit to cut your hole out over the shank hole. Still this is a lot of work for not so much of a piece.

Captchee · « **Reply #14 on:** December 14, 2014, 02:03:08 AM »

MMM? i thought it was you mike who used wood dust mixed with Bl to fill worm holes . maybe it was someone over on the Double Gun Journel . i remember it was simply amazing

Mike Brooks · « **Reply #15 on:** December 14, 2014, 04:01:27 AM »

Quote from: Captchee on December 14, 2014, 02:03:08 AM

MMM? i thought it was you mike who used wood dust mixed with Bl to fill worm holes . maybe it was someone over on the Double Gun Journel . i remember it was simply amazing

Nah, worm holes don't bother me so I'd never come up with a way to fill them. Now, i have filled some nasty termite holes.

Acer Saccharum · « **Reply #16 on:** December 14, 2014, 04:51:24 AM »

show-off!

Captchee · « **Reply #17 on:** December 14, 2014, 05:22:13 PM »

Quote from: Acer Saccharum on December 14, 2014, 04:51:24 AM

show-off!

LMAO thats an understatement Acer

Mike Brooks · « **Reply #18 on:** December 14, 2014, 05:51:03 PM »

Imagine the horror when those termite tunnels showed up!

Pete G. · « **Reply #19 on:** December 14, 2014, 07:32:57 PM »

Quote from: Mike Brooks on December 14, 2014, 05:51:03 PM

Imagine the horror when those termite tunnels showed up!

A real "Aw Pshaw" moment....

mr. no gold · « **Reply #20 on:** December 14, 2014, 08:15:19 PM »

Termite holes notwithstanding, that is screamingly nice piece of walnut. You did a fine job of disguising the damage and that's pretty nice carving. Well done!
Dick

Mike Brooks · « **Reply #21 on:** December 14, 2014, 10:02:36 PM »

Quote from: mr. no gold on December 14, 2014, 08:15:19 PM

Termite holes notwithstanding, that is screamingly nice piece of walnut. You did a fine job of disguising the damage and that's pretty nice carving. Well done!
Dick

It's a piece of good old Iowa walnut I pulled out of the scrap pile at a saw mill 25 years ago.....Those were the days! I used to get as much walnut scrap as I could pile on my truck for $5 a load. Most of it went in the wood stove, but there were always a few gunstocks in a load if I kept my eyes open.

JTR · « **Reply #22 on:** December 14, 2014, 10:13:52 PM »

Wow, that fix is impressive! So what did you use and how did you do it?
John

J. Talbert · « **Reply #23 on:** December 14, 2014, 11:38:10 PM »

Mike,

I'm also curious. Can show or tell us the process?

Thanks,
Jeff

trentOH · « **Reply #24 on:** December 15, 2014, 12:32:10 AM »

Quote from: trentOH on December 12, 2014, 06:36:10 AM

I am looking at a rifle for sale which has had a number of brass tacks added to the stock. Can anyone advise on how best to remove tacks, and mitigate the damage of brass tacks? Thanks. I think I can hear a collective Hmmmm now.

OP here. I've decided to pass on this rifle.
But I sure am glad that I asked, because it opened a string which clearly demonstrates the wealth of knowledge available from all of my equaintances here at ALR.

Now, let's keep this thread going. Make me smarter!!!!!!!

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Author Topic: Repairing brass tack holes (Read 14370 times)