Hairline cracked stock

[greymount]

In the process of inletting the tang and tapping with a light hammer I created a hairline crack in the top wrist area of the gun.  The hairline crack is less than 1 inch long and it runs from the rear tang area off to the right of the wrist area.  The area of the crack and wrist seems to be structurally sound but when the tang is in the gun, the crack seems to be more raised. This tells me that the crack is not too deep and that crack is originating or was caused by the tightness of the rear tang area. The stock is a "grade 4" precarved Dickert stock with an inlet for the lock.  I assume that a "'grade 4" is probably more prone to fractures.  I was advised that one possible way of fixing the problem was to drill a small hole from the tang inlet under the crack area and to fill with a very thin viscosity glue.  Also how would I cover up the hairline crack in the finishing process once the crack is fixed?  Any other ideas on fixing the crack would be a help.  I will try to take a photo and post it.

[Benedict]

I had a precarve do that years ago and I glued it with cyanocryolite (high quality super glue).  It soaks in easily, is quick to dry and waterproof.  Wood turners use it on bowls that crack.  The gun that I fixed that way was in good shape several years afterwards and I have not heard that it was a problem.  I am sure that the owner would have let me know if he had trouble.   There are probably other solutions but this worked for me.

Bruce

[keweenaw]

If you glue that crack with a thin, slow set epoxy or with carpenter's wood glue and clamp it tightly by wrapping the wrist with surgical tubing, you'll not be able to see the crack when you're done and it won't show in the finish.  The surgical tubing will pull it together incredibly tightly without marking, just wrap it across itself adjacent to the crack to bind it the then stretch very tightly as you wrap it around the wrist. 

Tom

[rich pierce]

I use the stainable wood glue (think it's Elmer's).  Works great.

[t.caster]

BTW, you might have your tang inlet TOO TIGHTLY. May need to remove a little more wood in your inlet.
Also, No. 4 grade wood has little or nothing to do with the likelyhood of it cracking. It has more to do with direction/lay of the grain, and FORCING THE TANG INTO THE INLET WITH A HAMMER !

[Roger Fisher]

Ok Grey::  Don't feel alone in your sleeplessness over this split!   Been there and done exactly that.  I drilled a couple or three fine holes at the proper angle used a glue injector (hyprodermic needle style) and glued it with slightly thinned brown carp glue.  This was in 89!! (NINETEEN eigthynine) I have fired over 60,000 rounds thru her since then including some of those accidental double charges and said repair has not moved!  Just lucky I guess

So, do said repair as described earlier and you will be the only one to know!

BTW glue pots were regular items at the old makers estate sales....!

[Rich]

I recently fixed a small hairline crack as follows. The stock was stained with Aquafortis, and already finished with an oil varnish. I put aquafortis over the split and heated it with a heat gun to stain it. I then used super glue that I worked into the crack. It was cold out and the glue was cold and did not initially set up, giving me time to work it all the way in. I then clamped it and brought it into a warm location. The glue set up. I hit it with 0000 steel wool  and revarnished. The split cannot be seen even with magnification.